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Bouldering at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup

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Bouldering
at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location Meiringen, Switzerland

Salt Lake City (2 times), United States

Innsbruck, Austria
Dates16 April – 26 June 2021
Champions
MenJapan Yoshiyuki Ogata
WomenUnited States Natalia Grossman

The 2021 season of the IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 22nd season of the competition. Bouldering competitions will be held at six stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 16 at the World Cup in Meiringen, and concluded on 26 June with the World Cup in Innsbruck. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled six bouldering events concluding on 24 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Wujiang in China and Seoul in South Korea.[1][2]

At each stop a qualifying was held on the first day of the competition, and the semi-final and final rounds were conducted on the second day of the competition. At the end of the season an overall ranking will be determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Overview

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Date Location Venue Route-setters* Men Women
April, 16–18 Switzerland Meiringen, Switzerland Kletterhalle Haslital[3]
  • Japan Gen Hirashima
  • France Remi Samyn
  • France Laurent Laporte
 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Slovenia Janja Garnbret
May, 21-22 United States Salt Lake City, United States Industry SLC[4]
  • United Kingdom Jamie Cassidy
  • United States Brad Weaver
  • Japan Tsukasa Mizuguchi
 Czech Republic Adam Ondra United States Natalia Grossman
May, 28–30 United States Salt Lake City, United States Industry SLC[4]
  • United Kingdom Jamie Cassidy
  • United States Garret Gregor
  • United Kingdom Yann Genoux
  • United States Flannery Shay-Nemirow
 United States Sean Bailey United States Natalia Grossman
June, 23–26 Austria Innsbruck, Austria Kletterzentrum Innsbruck[5]
  • United Kingdom Percy Bishton
  • Switzerland Manuel Hassler
  • France Romain Cabessut
  • United States Garret Gregor
 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata Slovenia Janja Garnbret
OVERALL WINNERS Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata United States Natalia Grossman
NATIONAL TEAM Japan Japan

* Chief route-setters are in bold.

Overall ranking

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The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are five competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.

Men

[edit]

The results of the twenty most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2021:[6]

Rank Name Points Meiringen Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Innsbruck
1 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 255 2. 80 16. 20 4. 55 1. 100
2 Japan Kokoro Fujii 255 4. 55 4. 55 2. 80 3. 65
3 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 200 1. 100 1. 100 ( — ) ( — )
4 United States Sean Bailey 166 13. 26 8. 40 1. 100 47. 0
5 France Mejdi Schalck 157 12. 28 2. 80 9. 37 20. 12
6 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 145 ( — ) ( — ) 3. 65 2. 80
7 United States Nathaniel Coleman 142 5. 51 21. 10 10. 34 6. 47
8 Austria Nicolai Užnik 132 14. 24 11. 31 15. 22 4. 55
9 Germany Alexander Megos 129 8. 40 9. 37 14. 24 12. 28
10 Belgium Simon Lorenzi 123.5 29. 1.5 7. 43 12. 28 5. 51
11 Japan Sohta Amagasa 119 6. 47 14. 24 13. 26 15. 22
12 Russia Alexey Rubtsov 114 17. 18 15. 22 11. 31 7. 43
13 Slovenia Gregor Vezonik 98.5 9. 37 6. 47 24. 7 23. 7.5
13 Slovenia Anže Peharc 98.5 21. 9.5 5. 51 16. 20 17. 18
15 Austria Jakob Schubert 96.5 23. 7.5 3. 65 ( — ) 14. 24
16 Japan Tomoaki Takata 94.9 3. 65 22. 9 32. 0.9 16. 20
17 Japan Rei Sugimoto 77.5 21. 9.5 17. 18 18. 16 10. 34
18 France Manuel Cornu 75.4 11. 31 35. 0.8 7. 43 37. 0.6
19 United States Colin Duffy 64.5 31. 0.9 13. 26 38. 0.6 9. 37
20 Germany Yannick Flohé 63 19. 13 24. 7 20. 12 11. 31

Women

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The results of the twenty most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2021:[7]

Rank Name Points Meiringen Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Innsbruck
1 United States Natalia Grossman 345 3. 65 1. 100 1. 100 2. 80
2 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 280 1. 100 ( — ) 2. 80 1. 100
3 France Oriane Bertone 235 2. 80 2. 80 4. 55 16. 20
4 United States Brooke Raboutou 207 9. 37 3. 65 3. 65 8. 40
5 Japan Miho Nonaka 192 7. 43 4. 55 6. 47 6. 47
6 Serbia Staša Gejo 173 13. 26 11. 31 5. 51 3. 65
7 Slovenia Katja Debevec 158 6. 47 8. 40 7. 43 12. 28
8 Japan Futaba Ito 135 ( — ) 7. 43 9. 37 4. 55
9 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 122 4. 55 ( — ) 18. 16 5. 51
10 Japan Mao Nakamura 92 ( — ) 10. 34 14. 24 10. 34
11 Austria Johanna Färber 91.7 31. 0.9 6. 47 34. 0.8 7. 43
12 Austria Jessica Pilz 79 12. 28 5. 51 ( — ) ( — )
13 Austria Franziska Sterrer 78.5 11. 31 21. 95 20. 12 13. 26
14 Slovenia Vita Lukan 77 5. 51 23. 8 17. 18 ( — )
15 Switzerland Petra Klingler 74.5 21. 9.5 25. 6 12. 28 11. 31
16 France Fanny Gibert 72.5 35. 0.7 9. 37 10. 34 33. 0.8
17 Switzerland Andrea Kümin 69 8. 40 26. 5 ( — ) 14. 24
18 United States Kylie Cullen 67.5 25. 5.5 14. 24 16. 20 17. 18
19 United States Kyra Condie 60 21. 9.5 30. 1 8. 40 21. 9.5
20 Belgium Chloe Caulier 58.5 25. 5.5 13. 26 26. 5 15. 22

* = Joint place with another athlete

National teams

[edit]

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2021:[8]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Name Points Meiringen Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Innsbruck
1 Japan Japan 1235.0 2. 298.0 3. 231.0 2. 308.0 1. 398.0
2 United States United States 1088.0 3. 209.0 1. 265.0 1. 390.0 2. 224.0
3 Slovenia Slovenia 798.0 1. 312.0 5. 148.0 4. 168.0 3. 170.0
4 France France 635.85 4. 156.6 2. 238.75 3. 177.0 8. 63.5
5 Austria Austria 498.25 7. 91.95 4. 204.0 10. 34.8 4. 167.5
6 Germany Germany 403.1 6. 93.5 6. 119.0 5. 108.0 5. 82.6
7 Belgium Belgium 215.55 12. 22.0 8. 69.55 7. 51.0 6. 73.0
8 Czech Republic Czech Republic 200.0 5. 100.0 7. 100.0 ( — ) ( — )
9 Italy Italy 190.6 11. 22.95 9. 66.0 9. 45.7 10. 55.95
10 Serbia Serbia 173.0 10. 26.0 11. 31.0 7. 51.0 7. 65.0

Meiringen, Switzerland (16–17 April)

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Men

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101 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen.[9]

Rank Name Score
1 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 3T3z 10 7
2 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T4z 7 9
3 Japan Tomoaki Takata 1T4z 4 12
4 Japan Kokoro Fujii 1T3z 1 4
5 United States Nathaniel Coleman 1T3z 2 5
6 Japan Sohta Amagasa 0T3z 0 4

Women

[edit]

70 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen.[10]

Rank Name Score
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 4T4z 7 6
2 France Oriane Bertone 2T4z 8 10
3 United States Natalia Grossman 2T4z 10 10
4 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 0T3z 0 7
5 Slovenia Vita Lukan 0T2z 0 3
6 Slovenia Katja Debevec 0T2z 0 6

Salt Lake City I, United States (21–22 May)

[edit]

Men

[edit]

55 athletes attended the first World Cup in Salt Lake City.[11]

Rank Name Score
1 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 4T4z 8 7
2 France Mejdi Schalck 3T4z 4 5
3 Austria Jakob Schubert 3T3z 4 4
4 Japan Kokoro Fujii 3T3z 12 7
5 Slovenia Anže Peharc 1T3z 2 8
6 Slovenia Gregor Vezonik 1T2z 2 2

Women

[edit]

50 athletes attended the first World Cup in Salt Lake City.[12]

Rank Name Score
1 United States Natalia Grossman 4T4z 15 14
2 France Oriane Bertone 3T4z 7 7
3 United States Brooke Raboutou 3T3z 4 3
4 Japan Miho Nonaka 3T3z 7 6
5 Austria Jessica Pilz 1T3z 3 6
6 Austria Johanna Färber 1T2z 1 8

Salt Lake City II, United States (28–30 May)

[edit]

Men

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55 athletes attended the second World Cup in Salt Lake City.[13]

Rank Name Score
1 United States Sean Bailey 2T4z 9 11
2 Japan Kokoro Fujii 1T4z 9 12
3 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 1T3z 1 3
4 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 0T2z 0 4
5 United States Zach Galla 0T1z 0 1
6 United Kingdom Maximillian Milne 0T1z 0 2

Women

[edit]

51 athletes attended the second World Cup in Salt Lake City.[14] Natalia Grossman won the competition, becoming the first athlete to best Janja Garnbret in a bouldering World Cup since Meiringen in April 2018, thus ending Garnbret's streak at nine consecutive wins.[15]

Rank Name Score
1 United States Natalia Grossman 4T4z 4 4
2 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 4T4z 6 6
3 United States Brooke Raboutou 3T4z 5 8
4 France Oriane Bertone 3T3z 9 5
5 Serbia Staša Gejo 3T3z 11 10
6 Japan Miho Nonaka 2T4z 5 9

Innsbruck, Austria (23–26 June)

[edit]

Men

[edit]

110 athletes attended the World Cup in Innsbruck.[16] Because of rain delays and restrictions surrounding the COVID-19 pandemic in Austria, the final round was cut short and only three of the four boulders were used.[17]

Rank Name Score
1 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T2z 7 7
2 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 1T3z 2 11
3 Japan Kokoro Fujii 1T1z 2 2
4 Austria Nicolai Uznik 1T1z 2 2
5 Belgium Simon Lorenzi 1T1z 10 10
6 United States Nathaniel Coleman 0T1z 0 2

Women

[edit]

89 athletes attended the second World Cup in Innsbruck.[18] Because of rain delays, the finals were cut short and only the first three of the four boulders in that round were counted towards the results.[17] Miho Nonaka was forced to withdraw from the final after a knee injury she picked up on W4 in the semi-final round.[19][20]

Coverage of the Austrian climber Johanna Färber received criticism from viewers and she described it as "disrespectful and upsetting". The host broadcaster, ORF, issued an apology after the event.[20][17][21]

Rank Name Score
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 3T3z 3 3
2 United States Natalia Grossman 3T3z 9 9
3 Serbia Staša Gejo 1T3z 2 6
4 Japan Futaba Ito 1T2z 3 8
5 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 1T1z 1 1
6 Japan Miho Nonaka DNS

References

[edit]
  1. ^ "Sport climbing World Cup events in China cancelled because of COVID-19". www.insidethegames.biz. 20 August 2021. Archived from the original on 2021-08-20. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  2. ^ Burke, Patrick (20 September 2021). "IFSC World Cup in Seoul cancelled less than two weeks before event". inside the games. Retrieved 20 September 2021.
  3. ^ "2021 Meiringen info sheet". Archived from the original on 2021-09-07.
  4. ^ a b "2021 SLC info sheet". Archived from the original on 2021-09-07.
  5. ^ "2021 Innsbruck info sheet". Archived from the original on 2021-09-05.
  6. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2021 Men OVERALL Ranking".
  7. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2021 Women OVERALL Ranking".
  8. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: BOULDERING NATIONAL TEAM RANKING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 2021-09-25. Retrieved 2021-09-25.
  9. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Meiringen (SUI) 2021 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 24 April 2021.
  10. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Meiringen (SUI) 2021 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 24 April 2021.
  11. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Salt Lake City I (USA) 2021 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 23 May 2021.
  12. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Salt Lake City I (USA) 2021 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 23 May 2021.
  13. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Salt Lake City II (USA) 2021 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 5 June 2021.
  14. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Salt Lake City II (USA) 2021 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 5 June 2021.
  15. ^ Berry, Natalie (May 31, 2021). "IFSC Boulder and Speed World Cup Salt Lake City 2021 (Round 2): Report". UKC. Retrieved June 1, 2021.
  16. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2021 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 3 July 2021.
  17. ^ a b c ""Inappropriate" coverage row and rainstorms mar IFSC World Cup at Innsbruck". www.insidethegames.biz. Retrieved 19 July 2021.
  18. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2021 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 3 July 2021.
  19. ^ "NEWS: IFSC Lead and Boulder World Cup Innsbruck 2021 - Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-07.
  20. ^ a b "Grossman and Garnbret Battle, Broadcaster Apologizes for Sexualizing Coverage". Climbing. 27 June 2021. Retrieved 19 July 2021.
  21. ^ IFSC. "IFSC Twitter page". Twitter. Retrieved 19 July 2021.
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