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Bouldering at the 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup

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Bouldering
at the 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Jongwon Chon KOR, winner of the World Cup 2017
Location Meiringen, Switzerland

Chongqing, China
Nanjing, China
Hachioji, Japan
Vail, United States
Navi Mumbai, India

Munich, Germany
Dates7 April – 19 August 2017
Champions
MenSouth Korea Jongwon Chon
WomenUnited Kingdom Shauna Coxsey

The 2017 season of the IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 19th season of the competition. Bouldering competitions were being held at seven stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 7 at the World Cup in Meiringen, and concluded on 19 August at the World Cup in Munich. At each stop a qualifying was held on the first day, and the semi-final and final rounds were conducted on the second day of the competition. The winners were awarded trophies, and the best three finishers received medals. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Shauna Coxsey won the women's World Cup and Jongwon Chon won the men's World Cup.

Changes from the previous season

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For the 2017 season the IFSC changed the timing method for the finals of World Cup tournaments. Beginning in 2017 any attempt would only be considered successful if the athlete had reached the top and demonstrated control over it within the four minute time limit. (four minutes dead rule) Previously boulderers had four minutes per boulder, but a boulderer was allowed to finish their attempt if they had successfully started the boulder within the four minute limit. (four minutes plus rule) [1]

Streaming controversy

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Before the start of the 2017 season the IFSC announced that they had signed a three-year contract with the streaming platform FloSports,[2] which would have made the streams of climbing World Cups available only to paying customers instead of being freely accessible. This led to an online petition asking the IFSC to change their deal with FloSports, which was signed by more than 12,000 people,[3] and an open letter by the Athletes' Commission. The Commission voiced their frustration over the way the IFSC had previously communicated with the community at large, and "asked the athletes to withdraw cooperation with the livestream media until changes are made".[3] On the next day the IFSC apologized for having made a mistake, and announced that the deal with FloSports had not actually been signed yet despite the earlier press release, and would not be concluded.[4]

Overall ranking

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Winners 2017 Men: 1st Place: Jongwon Chon KOR, 2nd Place: Tomoa Narasaki JPN, 3rd Place: Alexey Rubtsov RUS
Winners 2017 Women: 1st Place: Shauna Coxsey GBR, 2nd Place: Janja Garnbret SLO, 3rd. Place: Akiyo Noguchi JPN

Men

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Rank Name Points
1 South Korea Jongwon Chon 453
2 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 404
3 Russia Alexey Rubtsov 399
4 Japan Keita Watabe 372
5 Japan Kokoro Fujii 327
6 Japan Rei Sugimoto 278
7 Germany Jan Hojer 235
8 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 232
9 Slovenia Jernej Kruder 201
10 Austria Jakob Schubert 186

Women

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Rank Name Points
1 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 560
2 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 470
3 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 381
4 Japan Miho Nonaka 377
5 Switzerland Petra Klingler 290
6 Serbia Staša Gejo 234
7 Slovenia Katja Kadic 227
8 United Kingdom Michaela Tracy 190
9 France Fanny Gibert 187
10 Japan Aya Onoe 165

National teams

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Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Name Points
1 Japan Japan 2118
2 United Kingdom Great Britain 929
3 Slovenia Slovenia 927
4 Germany Germany 736
5 France France 715
6 South Korea Republic of Korea 694
7 Russia Russian Federation 608
8 Austria Austria 548
8 Switzerland Suisse 368
10 United States United States of America 340

Meiringen, Switzerland (7–8 April)

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Women

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78 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Shauna Coxsey (4t10 4b8) won the competition in front of Katharina Saurwein (2t6 3b13).[5]

Rank Name Score Points
1 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 4t10 4b8 100
2 Austria Katharina Saurwein 2t6 3b13 80
3 Japan Miho Nonaka 1t2 3b6 65
4 Serbia Stasa Gejo 1t3 3b3 55
5 Switzerland Petra Klingler 1t3 2b3 51
6 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 0t 2b4 47

Men

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115 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Kokoro Fujii (1t1 3b6) won the competition in front of Alexey Rubtsov (1t2 2b8).[5]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Japan Kokoro Fujii 1t1 3b6 100
2 Russia Alexey Rubtsov 1t2 2b8 80
3 Japan Keita Watabe 1t3 2b12 65
4 Japan Rei Sugimoto 1t5 3b7 55
5 Slovenia Jernej Kruder 0t 2b3 51
6 Germany David Firnenburg 0t 1b4 47

Chongqing, China (22–23 April)

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Women

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42 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Janja Garnbret (4t11 4b7) won the competition in front of Shauna Coxsey (3t4 4b5).[6]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 4t11 4b7 100
2 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 3t4 4b5 80
3 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 3t13 4b13 65
4 Austria Anna Stöhr 1t3 3b6 55
5 Canada Alannah Yip 1t3 3b8 51
6 Serbia Stasa Gejo 1t4 3b7 47

Men

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77 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Jongwon Chon (4t6 4b5) won the competition in front of Tomoa Narasaki (2t2 3b3), who claimed the second place over Alexey Rubtsov by virtue of his better semi-final score.[6]

Rank Name Score Points
1 South Korea Jongwon Chon 4t6 4b5 100
2 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 2t2 3b3 80
3 Russia Alexey Rubtsov 2t2 3b3 65
4 Japan Keita Watabe 2t3 3b3 55
5 Japan Kai Harada 1t1 3b4 51
6 France Manuel Cornu 1t4 3b8 47

Nanjing, China (29–30 April)

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Women

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50 athletes attended the World Cup in Nanjing. Shauna Coxsey (4t12 4b12) won her second World Cup competition of the season. At this point Coxsey and Nanjing runner-up Janja Garnbret (3t7 3b7) were the only two athletes to have made the final of all World Cups of the season.[7]

Rank Name Score Points
1 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 4t12 4b12 100
2 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 3t7 3b7 80
3 Japan Miho Nonaka 2t6 4b15 65
4 South Korea Jain Kim 1t5 2b11 55
5 Japan Aya Onoe 0t 3b8 51
6 Japan Mei Kotake 0t 1b3 47

Men

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83 athletes attended the World Cup in Nanjing. Keita Watabe (4t9 4b8), the only athlete in all World Cup finals of the season at this point, won his first World Cup competition. Tomoa Narasaki (3t6 4b7) came in second.[7]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Japan Keita Watabe 4t9 4b8 100
2 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 3t6 4b7 80
3 Slovenia Jernej Kruder 2t5 3b5 65
4 South Korea Jongwon Chon 1t1 3b8 55
5 France Manuel Cornu 0t 3b3 51
6 Japan Rei Sugimoto 0t 3b4 47

Hachioji, Japan (6–7 May)

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Women

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54 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachiōji, Tokyo. Janja Garnbret (4t5 4b4) won her second World Cup of the season. Akiyo Noguchi (4t9 4b9) won the silver medal.[8]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 4t5 4b4 100
2 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 4t9 4b9 80
3 Japan Miho Nonaka 3t4 4b5 65
4 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 2t2 3b3 55
5 France Fanny Gibert 2t6 4b12 51
6 Switzerland Petra Klingler 1t1 3b5 47

Men

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84 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachiōji. Alexey Rubtsov (3t8 4b13) won the World Cup in front of Tomoa Narasaki (3t9 4b19), who had his third consecutive silver medal finish.[8]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Russia Alexey Rubtsov 3t8 4b13 100
2 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 3t9 4b19 80
3 Japan Keita Watabe 2t5 3b6 65
4 France Mickael Mawem 1t1 4b8 55
5 Austria Jakob Schubert 1t2 3b5 51
6 Japan Taisei Ishimatsu 1t3 4b9 47

Vail, United States (9–10 June)

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Women

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55 athletes attended the World Cup in Vail. Shauna Coxsey (4t5 4b4) won her third World Cup of the season. Akiyo Noguchi (4t9 4b9) won silver again. For the first and so far only time in her career Janja Garnbret did not reach the final.[9]

Rank Name Score Points
1 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 3t4 4b5 100
2 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 3t6 4b6 80
3 Japan Miho Nonaka 3t7 4b7 65
4 United States Alex Puccio 3t10 4b10 55
5 Slovenia Katja Kadic 1t3 2b4 51
6 Switzerland Petra Klingler 0t 1b2 47

Men

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59 athletes attended the World Cup in Vail. Jongwon Chon (4t9 4b8) won the World Cup in front of Meichi Narasaki (3t6 3b5).[9]

Rank Name Score Points
1 South Korea Jongwon Chon 4t9 4b8 100
2 Japan Meichi Narasaki 3t6 3b5 80
3 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 3t11 4b7 65
4 Russia Alexey Rubtsov 2t5 3b8 55
5 Japan Kokoro Fujii 2t6 4b10 51
6 Japan Keita Watabe 1t3 1b3 47
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Women

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41 athletes attended the World Cup in Navi Mumbai. Shauna Coxsey (4t11 4b8) won her fourth World Cup of the season, thereby securing the overall seasonal title. Miho Nonaka (3t7 4b11) came in second.[10]

Rank Name Score Points
1 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 4t11 4b8 100
2 Japan Miho Nonaka 3t7 4b11 80
3 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 2t3 3b7 65
4 Switzerland Petra Klingler 1t3 3b4 55
5 Slovenia Katja Kadic 0t 3b6 51
6 Japan Aya Onoe 0t 1b5 47

Men

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58 athletes attended the World Cup in Navi Mumbai. Jongwon Chon (4t10 4b10) won the World Cup in front of Rei Sugimoto (3t6 3b4). This left Chon, Rubtsov, and Watabe with a chance to claim the overall title at the final World Cup of the season in Munich.[10]

Rank Name Score Points
1 South Korea Jongwon Chon 4t10 4b10 100
2 Japan Rei Sugimoto 3t6 3b4 80
3 Russia Alexey Rubtsov 3t9 3b8 65
4 Japan Kokoro Fujii 1t1 3b9 55
5 Austria Jakob Schubert 1t1 3b11 51
6 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 1t1 2b2 47

Munich, Germany (18–19 August)

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Women

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114 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. Janja Garnbret (3t10 3b6) won her second World Cup of the season, thereby securing the second place overall. Shauna Coxsey (2t2 2b2) won the Silver medal. She had locked up the overall title before the Munich competition already.[11]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 3t10 3b6 100
2 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 2t2 2b2 80
3 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 1t1 2b4 65
4 Serbia Stasa Gejo 1t3 3b9 55
5 United States Alex Puccio 1t3 2b4 51
6 Switzerland Petra Klingler 0t 1b4 47

Men

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166 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. Germany's Jan Hojer (4t10 4b6) won the World Cup in front of Tomoa Narasaki (3t6 3b3). However, Narasaki's four second places over the course of the season were not enough to defend his overall title. The overall title went to Jongwon Chon, who had come in fourth in Munich.[11]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Germany Jan Hojer 4t10 4b6 100
2 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 3t6 3b3 80
3 Japan Taisei Ishimatsu 3t7 3b4 65
4 South Korea Jongwon Chon 2t3 3b4 55
5 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 2t4 3b4 51
6 Japan Kokoro Fujii 2t9 2b6 47

References

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  1. ^ "New IFSC 4 minute rule: from hero to zero". Siked!. 3 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  2. ^ "IFSC and FloSports Sign Online Streaming Deal". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 5 April 2017. Archived from the original on 24 April 2018. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  3. ^ a b "The climbers speak: Open letter from the Athletes' Commission". OnBouldering.com. 11 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  4. ^ "Free streaming! The IFSC backtracks and cancels the FloClimbing deal". OnBouldering.com. 12 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  5. ^ a b "Meiringen Bouldering World Cup 2017 Results". OnBouldering.com. 8 April 2017. Retrieved 23 April 2018.
  6. ^ a b "Janja Garnbret and Jongwon Chon claim the gold in Chongqing". OnBouldering.com. 23 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  7. ^ a b "Results Nanjing Bouldering World Cup 2017". OnBouldering.com. 30 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  8. ^ a b "Results Hachioji Bouldering World Cup 2017". OnBouldering.com. 7 May 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  9. ^ a b "Results Vail Bouldering World Cup 2017". OnBouldering.com. 11 June 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  10. ^ a b "Coxsey and Chon take the gold in Navi Mumbai. Coxsey has secured the overall title". OnBouldering.com. 25 June 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  11. ^ a b "Results Munich Bouldering World Cup 2017". OnBouldering.com. 19 August 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.