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Futaba Ito

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Futaba Ito
Futaba Ito at the 2018 Climbing World Cup
Personal information
Nationality Japan
Born (2002-04-25) 25 April 2002 (age 22)[1]
Morioka, Iwate Prefecture, Japan[2]
OccupationProfessional sport climber
Height162 cm (5 ft 4 in)
Weight46 kg (101 lb)
Websitehttp://futaba-ito.com/
Climbing career
Type of climberBouldering, Lead climbing
Medal record
Asian Championships
Gold medal – first place 2018 Kurayoshi Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2022 Seoul Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place 2018 Kurayoshi Combined
Bronze medal – third place 2022 Seoul B&L
Bronze medal – third place 2024 Tai'an Bouldering
World Youth Championships
Gold medal – first place 2017 Innsbruck (Youth B) Lead
Silver medal – second place 2016 Guangzhou (Youth B) Bouldering
Silver medal – second place 2018 Moscow (Youth A) Lead
Bronze medal – third place 2017 Innsbruck (Youth B) Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place 2017 Innsbruck (Youth B) Combined
Bronze medal – third place 2018 Moscow (Youth A) Bouldering

Futaba Ito (伊藤 ふたば, Ito Futaba, born 25 April 2002) is a Japanese professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. She participates in both bouldering and lead climbing competitions. She won the IFSC Climbing Asian Youth Championships in lead and bouldering events in 2016, as well as Bouldering Japan Cup in 2017.[3] She participated in combined and speed events at the 2018 Asian Games.

Biography

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Ito was born on 25 April 2002, in Morioka, Iwate Prefecture, Japan.[2] She started climbing in her third year of elementary school, encouraged by her father who did sport climbing as a hobby. Her talent was apparent from early on; on her first day of climbing, she reportedly surprised her father by climbing 15 meters up high without stopping, despite not having had any prior climbing experience.[4]

She started taking part in public tournaments in 2014, when she came in second place at the 17th Junior Olympic Cup in the under-Youth B age group in lead climbing.[5]

In 2015, she achieved victory in the Japan Youth Championships lead event (under-Youth B age group),[6] and the All Japan Climbing Youth Championships Bouldering Tournament (Youth C).[7] In the same year, she also won both the lead and bouldering events (Youth C) while representing Japan in the IFSC Climbing Asian Youth Championships in Putrajaya, Malaysia.[8]

In 2016, she entered the All Japan Climbing Championships Lead Tournament, where she came 3rd in the girls' senior category, and won the Youth B category.[9] In November of the same year she represented Japan in the IFSC World Youth Championships in Guangzhou, China, where she came 2nd in bouldering in the girls' Youth B category.[10]

In January 2017, Ito won the 12th Sport Climbing Bouldering Japan Cup, where she faced the more experienced Japanese climbers Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka.[11][12][4] At 14 years and 9 months, Ito was youngest person ever to win the Japan Cup, beating Noguchi's 16 years and 3 months at the first Japan Cup in 2005.[12][4] She was also the youngest athlete to represent Japan in the 2018 Bouldering World Cup, where she placed 8th.[13][14]

In August 2018 she participated in combined and speed events at the Asian Games, held in Palembang, Indonesia.

In 2019 she won the Adidas Rockstars bouldering competition. In this event she defeated Janja Garnbret in the superfinal.[15][16]

Rankings

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[17]

IFSC Climbing World Championships

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Hachioji
2019 		Moscow
2021
Lead 14
Bouldering 7 13
Speed 27
Combined 7

IFSC Climbing World Cup

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2018 2019 2021 2022 2023
Lead 24 30 28 18 19
Bouldering 8 4 8 4 13
Speed 48 41
Combined 7 12 7 13

IFSC Climbing Asian Championships

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Kurayoshi
2018[18] 		Seoul
2022
Lead 10 4
Bouldering 1 1
Speed 15
Combined 3 3

IFSC World Youth Championships

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2016
Youth B
[19][20] 		2017
Youth B
[21][22][23][24] 		2018
Youth A
[25][26][27]
Lead 9 3 2
Bouldering 2 1 3
Speed 34 21
Combined 3

References

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  1. ^ "Itō Futaba - Kōeki Shadan Hōjin Nippon Sangaku Supōtsu Kuraimingu Kyōkai" [Futaba Ito - Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association] (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association. Retrieved 3 June 2019.
  2. ^ a b "Futaba Ito personal website". Archived from the original on Jul 5, 2019.
  3. ^ "Teenage girl becomes youngest winner of Bouldering Japan Cup". Mainichi. 30 January 2017. Archived from the original on 3 June 2019.
  4. ^ a b c "Itō Futaba Sainenshō V 14-sai 'Supaidāman' Yume wa Gorin, W-Hai, Sekai Senshuken Seiha" [Futaba Ito, Youngest Champion: 14-year-old 'Spiderman' Whose Dreams are Winning the Olympics, the World Cup and the World Championships] (in Japanese). Daily Sports. January 30, 2017.
  5. ^ "Dai 17-kai JOC Junia Orinpikku Kappu" [17th JOC Junior Olympic Cup] (PDF) (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association.
  6. ^ "Kuraimingu Nippon Yūsu Senshuken 2015 Mirē Kappu" [Climbing Japan Youth Championships 2015 Millet Cup] (PDF) (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association.
  7. ^ "Zennippon Kuraimingu Yūsu Senshuken Borudaringu Kyōgi Taikai 2015 Saishū Seiseki" [All Japan Climbing Youth Championships Bouldering Tournament 2015, Final Results] (PDF) (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association.
  8. ^ "FSC Kuraimingu Andā Yūsu Senshuken Putorajaya 2015". Sport Climbing Council of Japan.
  9. ^ "Mamūto Kappu 2016 Supōtsu Kuraimingu Nippon Senshuken Ken Nihon Yūsu Senshuken Rīdo Kyōgi Taikai" [Mammut Cup 2016 Sport Climbing Japan Championships and Japan Youth Championships Lead Tournament] (PDF) (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association.
  10. ^ "IFSC World Youth Championships - Guangzhou (CHN) - 2016: General Result Female Youth B Boulder". November 13, 2016.
  11. ^ "Supōtsu Kuraimingu Dai 12-kai Borudaringu Japan Kappu Joshi Sōgō Jun'i" [Sport Climbing 12th Bouldering Japan Cup General Women's Ranking] (PDF) (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association.
  12. ^ a b "Borudaringu, Morioka no Chū-2 ga Sainenshō de Hatsuyūshō" [Morioka 2nd Year Junior High School Student Wins Bouldering for First Time, the Youngest Ever]. Nippon TV News 24 Japan (in Japanese). 2017-01-30. Retrieved 2018-09-03.
  13. ^ "Joshi Kōsei Kuraimā, Seichō Apīru Borudaringu W-Hai" [High School Girl Climber Coming of Age]. Asahi Shinbun Digital (in Japanese). June 5, 2018. Retrieved 2018-06-05.
  14. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Cup 2019: W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved 5 July 2019.
  15. ^ "adidas ROCKSTARS 2019 - Report". UK Climbing. 16 September 2019. Archived from the original on Sep 16, 2019.
  16. ^ "Futaba Ito and Yoshiyuki Ogata are the winners of the Adidas Rockstars 2019 competition". Lacrux. 15 September 2019. Archived from the original on Sep 16, 2019.
  17. ^ "Futaba ITO". IFSC Climbing Results Service. International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved April 27, 2023.
  18. ^ "リザルト". IFSC-ACC ASIAN CHAMPIONSHIPS 2018 KURAYOSHI, JAPAN. Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association. Retrieved April 27, 2023.
  19. ^ "IFSC World Youth Championships - Guangzhou (CHN) - 2016". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  20. ^ "IFSC World Youth Championships - Guangzhou (CHN) - 2016". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  21. ^ "IFSC Youth World Championships - Innsbruck (AUT) - 2017 LEAD". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  22. ^ "IFSC Youth World Championships - Innsbruck (AUT) - 2017 BOULDERING". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  23. ^ "IFSC Youth World Championships - Innsbruck (AUT) - 2017 SPEED". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  24. ^ "IFSC Youth World Championships Combined - Innsbruck (AUT) - 2017". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  25. ^ "IFSC Youth World Championships - Moscow (RUS) 2018 LEAD". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  26. ^ "IFSC Youth World Championships - Moscow (RUS) 2018 BOULDERING". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  27. ^ "IFSC Youth World Championships - Moscow (RUS) 2018 SPEED". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
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