Talk:Ueli Steck

Climbing Acheivements

I've removed the section "climbing achivements", because it was only partly referenced which precludes Stuck being mentioned on the main page "In the News" section. Also it was unclear what the criteria for inclusion in the listing was, and that Steck's major achievements are already recorded in prose in the "Career" section. I've copied-and-pasted the section here such that it can be easily accessed by an editor interested in restoring the content:

Climbing achievements

North Face of the Eiger where Steck established his speed records and opened new hard routes 1995 Eiger north face, Heckmair route (1800 m) 1998 Mönch, Haston couloir, solo in 3.5 hours (1000 m) 1999 Eiger northeast face (Lauper route), solo in 5 hours (1800 m) 2000 Eiger north face, Yeti route, second ascent (7c/A0) Mönch north face, Direttissima, first ascent (1000 m M5/WI5) 2001 Grandes Jorasses Walker Spur, winter ascent (1200 m) Pumori west face, first ascent (1400 m M4/80 degree ice) with Ueli Buhler Eiger North Face, first ascent via "The Young Spider" (1800 m M7/WI6; 7a/A2) 2002 Mount Dickey, Alaska, east face, first ascent ("Blood from the Stone" route, 1700 m M7 + AI6 5.9/A1) 2002/03 Two attempts at Jannu north face (7710 m) Nepal, along with Erhard Loretan 2003 Punta Heron (Patagonia) Eiger north face, La vida es Silbar redpointed, (900 m 7c) Eiger north face, Paciencia, first ascent (900 m 8a) with Stephan Siegrist. 2004 Trilogy Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau (north faces) in 25 hours 2005 (Khumbu-Express) First solo ascent of Taboche east face (6515 m) and Cholatse north face (6440 m) 2006 Matterhorn north face, solo ascent Eiger north face, winter solo ascent of "The Young Spider" Gasherbrum II East (7772 m) NE face, first ascent 2007 Eiger north face, Heckmair route, speed record in 3:54 hours, solo 2008 Eiger north face, Heckmair route, speed record in 2:47:33 hours, solo Grandes Jorasses north face, Colton–McIntyre speed-record route in 2:21 hours, solo Tengkampoche north face (6500 m, Nepal) with Simon Anthamatten, first ascent in alpine style (no bolts, no fixed ropes, four days for the ascent and descent), winner of the Piolet d'Or. Eiger north face, Paciencia, first free ascent (900 m 8a) with Stephan Siegrist. This route represents the hardest rock climbing route on Eiger north face. 2009 Matterhorn north face, Schmid route speed-record in 1:56 hours, solo Gasherbrum II, solo ascent Makalu, normal route 2011 Shishapangma south face solo in 10:30 hours. Cho Oyu, via the northwest face (normal route), 18 days after the Shishapangma solo ascent 2012, Everest, via the South Col - southeast ridge (normal route) without supplemental oxygen 2013, Annapurna, solo ascent via the south face in 28 hours, winner of the Piolet d'Or. 2015 Eiger north face, Heckmair route, speed record in 2:22:50 hours, solo 2016, Ueli Steck, Mathieu Maynadier and Jérôme Para climbed North Couloir Direct VI Al6+ M8 800 m on Les Drus.

— Preceding unsigned comment added by LukeSurl (talk • contribs) 21:25, 30 April 2017 (UTC)

Thanks, User:LukeSurl. Yes, difficult to judge, without expert knowledge, as they are not all graded. One might reasonably expect the more notable ones to be more widely reported? So perhaps some of those could be moved back. But the picture of that Eiger is a really strong one and deserves to be included somehow. Martinevans123 (talk) 09:29, 1 May 2017 (UTC)

Career

There is an inaccuracy in this article - The location of the 2013 run-in with Sherpas as described in this article is incorrect. Steck & company were climbing Everest via the Western Cwm/South Col route in Nepal, and the 'infraction' happened above camp 2 in the Western Cwm - on the west face of LHOTSE, the 'Lhotse face' on the customary South Col route - NOT the west face of Everest as stated in the article; and the subsequent, dangerous confrontation happened later at camp 2 in the Western Cwm. The west face of Everest is rarely climbed, and after an exhaustive search I am unable to find any reference to a 2013 commercial Everest expedition that would have entailed Sherpas fixing ropes on Everest's west face. I've provided documentation in the statement on the incident linked below.

Click on the >>The facts as they unfolded according to Simone Moro, Ueli Steck and Jonathan Griffith<< link to read a first person account of the events.

I propose to change the text in the article: "In April 2013, Steck and two other mountaineers, Simone Moro and Jonathan Griffith, were involved in an altercation with local Sherpas while on the west face of Mount Everest which became an international media event." to the following:

"In April 2013, Steck and two other mountaineers, Simone Moro and Jonathan Griffith, were involved in an [incident] with [several] Sherpas [who were fixing ropes for commercial expeditions] on the [Lhotse Face above camp 2 on Mount Everest's South Col route,] which [subsequently escalated into a dangerous confrontation with many Sherpas after Steck and company returned to camp 2,] and became an international media event."

I'll wait 48 hours for comments, if there are none I'll go ahead and make the edit. Big Lew 02:48, 4 February 2018 (UTC) — Preceding unsigned comment added by Lew Sheen (talk • contribs)

References