Talk:Rust converter

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Metalworking

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Clean-up

I started cleaning up the grammar, but it needed so many changes that I wound up half-rewriting the article. I'm inexperienced at article editing... this is my most http://www.semproducts.com/manage/html/public/content/techsheets/sem_tds_rust-mort.pdfambitious edit yet so any constructive criticism is appreciated! Syd (talk) 03:44, 24 June 2012 (UTC)[reply]

This article needs to start from scratch- role of adhering endproducts, role of polymers, difference in tannins vs. phosphates, etc.68.238.249.142 (talk) 21:13, 28 October 2012 (UTC)[reply]

Yeah, I'm unfamiliar with the subject and it was tough finding cites that weren't from commercial websites or literature. It gets a bit complex as there's different solvents, acids, and polymers depending on the formulation (these for example, which might be a useful cite). I didn't mean to take over the article but it was almost unreadable before, looks like I halfassed it. I'll work harder at explaining and citing if I make any more changes. Thanks for the input! - Syd (talk) 00:06, 30 October 2012 (UTC)[reply]

Try this. I have read many times and was taught that phosphoric acid will convert iron oxide (rust) into iron phosphate (black, stable and inert). I looked here:

http://www.semproducts.com/manage/html/public/content/techsheets/sem_tds_rust-mort.pdf

and the well-known SEM company which makes the product we always used - Rust Mort - says the active ingredient is phosphoric acid. It also describes what it does, but I don't know if it's technical enough. The product is a very watery, water based liquid we simply applied to rust and waited about 24 hours for it to convert fully and dry. Unlike rust, the black phosphate is quite hard, durable and is paintable.

In all of my years I never heard of using polymers, tannin etc. Maybe I just don't know. HTH.

For further research, oxalic acid, usually bought as powder will mix with water and dissolve rust. After a couple of days soaking in this solution the rust is simply gone and there's only clean metal. It works best if mixed with hot (tap hot) water even if allowed to cool before use. This solution is safe with ferric metals and chrome plated ferric metals but it will damage other metals such as galvanized, aluminum, brass etc. if left very long.

Image

The current image looks more like abstract art than any rusty steel I have ever treated. I'm in the middle of fixing up an old snow plow right now, and even have a "middle" and "after" photo of the back.

When I do the front in a couple of days I will try to take before, middle, and after shots to clearly show what this treatment does.

Wish me luck on remembering! Huw Powell (talk) 04:46, 23 September 2019 (UTC)[reply]

Missing type of rust “removers”

I came here to look for what “Evapo-rust” is supposed to be. It was recommended by Adam Savage. It is apparently safe, even when it gets into the eyes, and biodegradable. So it can’t be acid, like it says in the article. I am wondering what it is, then…? 109.42.176.104 (talk) 21:05, 29 January 2024 (UTC)[reply]