Jump to content

List of grade milestones in rock climbing

Edit links
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
(Redirected from Notable first free ascents)
Wolfgang Güllich set new "hardest-ever routes" multiple times
Part of a series on
Climbing
Lists
Types of rock climbing
Types of mountaineering
Other types
Key actions
Key terms

In rock-climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint, onsight or flash of a single-pitch, multi-pitch (or big wall), or boulder climbing route that did not involve using aid equipment to help progression or resting; the ascent must therefore be performed in either a sport, a traditional, or a free solo manner. First-free-ascents that set new grade milestones are important events in rock climbing history, and are listed below. While sport climbing has dominated absolute-grade milestones since the mid-1980s (i.e. are now the highest grades), milestones for modern traditional climbing, free solo climbing, onsighted, and flashed ascents, are also listed.

A route's grade is provisional until enough climbers have repeated the route to have a "consensus". At the highest grades, this can take years as few climbers are capable of repeating these routes. For example, in 2001, Realization was considered the world's first 9a+ (5.15a), however, the first repeat of the 1996 route Open Air [de], which only happened in 2008, suggested that it was possibly the first 9a+ (5.15a). Open Air has had no further repeats, and has had holds broken since 1996, whereas Realization has had many ascents and is thus a "consensus" 9a+. Therefore, where known, the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th ranked candidates are also chronicled.[1][2]

As of October 2024, the hardest single-pitch redpoint was at the grade of 9c (5.15d) for men and 9b (5.15b) for women. The hardest onsight was at the grade of 9a (5.14d) for men and 8c (5.14b) for women. The hardest boulder solved was at the boulder grade of V17 (9A) for men and V15/V16 (8C/8C+)  for women. The hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) redpoint was at the grade of 9a+ (5.15a). The hardest single-pitch free solo was at the grade of 8c (5.14b), and the hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) free solo was at 7c+ (5.13a).

Single-pitch routes

[edit]

Redpointed by men

[edit]

9c (5.15d):[a]

Adam Ondra on Silence
  • Silence – Flatanger Municipality (NOR) – September 3, 2017 – First ascent by Adam Ondra, who described it as "much harder than anything else" he had previously done, and cautiously suggested the 9c rating for the 45 m route.[5][6] Remains unrepeated (August 2024).
  • DNA [de] – Verdon Gorge (FRA) – April 29, 2022 – First ascent by Sébastien Bouin who proposed the grade of 9c, saying "Comparing this route to Bibliographie, Move, Beyond [Integral], it seems a step ahead", and "To choose 9c is to take a risk". Remains unrepeated (August 2024).[7]
  • B.I.G. (also Project Big) – Flatanger Municipality (NOR) – September 20, 2023 – First ascent by Jakob Schubert, who worked on the route with Adam Ondra, and after consulting with Ondra, proposed 9c on the basis it was "definitely harder" than Perfecto Mundo, a "benchmark" 9b+. Remains unrepeated (August 2024).[8]

9b+ (5.15c):[b]

9b (5.15b):[c][d][e][f]

9a+ (5.15a):[g][h]

9a (5.14d):

Alex Megos on Action Directe

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):[i]

8b+ (5.14a):[j]

Climber nearing the top of Punks in the Gym 32 8b+ (5.14a)

8b (5.13d):[k]

8a+ (5.13c)[l]

Pre-sport era

[edit]

Many of the notable first ascents that achieved a new highest grade prior to The Face are traditional climbing routes:

8a (5.13b)[m]

  • Grand Illusion – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA (US) – 1979 – First-ever consensus 8a (5.13b) in history, by Tony Yaniro.[10][37]
  • Cosmic Debris – Yosemite Valley, CA (US) – May, 1980 – Early 8a led by Bill Price.[49]
  • Sphinx Crack – South Platte, CO (US) – April, 1981 – Early 8a led by Steve Hong.[50]
  • 13 Boulevard du Vol – Rochers de Freyr, (BEL) – 1981 – Early consensus 8a (5.13b), by Arnould t'Kint.[10][37]
  • Grand Illusion – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA (US) – 1982 – Early consensus 8a (5.13b), by Wolfgang Güllich.[37]
  • La Crépinette – Les Eaux-Claires (FRA) – 1983 – Early consensus 8a (5.13b) in history, by Fabrice Guillot (and first 8a in France).[37][51]

7c+ (5.13a)

  • The Phoenix – Yosemite, CA (US) – 1977 – Considered the first-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Ray Jardine (used his new cams).[52]
  • Le Toit – Baou de Quatre Ouro (FRA) – 1981 – Second-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Patrick Edlinger.[37]
  • Le Haine – La Turbie (FRA) – March, 1981 – Third-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Patrick Berhault.[37]
  • Chimpanzodrome – Le Saussois (FRA) – April, 1981 – Fourth-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Jean-Pierre Bouvier.[37]

7c (5.12d)

  • Psycho Roof – Eldorado, CO (US) – 1975 – Estimated as the first-ever 7c (5.12d) in history, by Steve Wunsch; only one ascent, due to large broken flake, and was possibly harder than 7c in 1975.[53][54]
  • The Pirate – Suicide Rock, CA – (US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by Tony Yaniro.[55]
  • Iron Cross – Shawangunks, NY – (US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by John Bragg.[56][57]
  • Genesis – Eldorado, CO – (US) – 1979 – Early 7c (5.12d) by Jim Collins.[58][50]
  • Nymphodalle – Les Calanques (FRA) – 1979 – Sometimes considered first-ever consensus 7c (5.12d) in history, by Patrick Edlinger.[37][40]
  • Equinox – Joshua Tree (US) – 1980 – Considered one of the earliest consensus 7c (5.12d) climbs in history, by Tony Yaniro.[37]
  • Chasin' the trane – Frankenjura (GER) – 1980 – Considered one of the earliest consensus 7c (5.12d) climbs in history, by John Bachar.[37]

7b+ (5.12c)

7b (5.12b)

7a+ (5.12a)

Thimble, the 1960s
  • Thimble – Needles, SD, (US) – 1961 – First-ever 7a+ (5.12a) in history, by John Gill. Free soloed.[10]
  • Macabre Roof – Ogden, Utah, (US) – 1967 – First-ever roped 7a+ (5.12a) in history, flashed by Greg Lowe.[62][63]
  • Orchrist – Almscliff, (ENG) – July 1973 – Early 7a+ (5.12a) as was graded E5 6b, by Hank Pasquill.[64]
  • The Throne – Shawangunks, NY (US) – 1973 – Very early 7a+ (5.12a) climb, led by John Stannard.[56]
  • Footless Crow – Goat Crag, Borrowdale, (ENG) – April 19, 1974 – Early 7a+ (5.12a) as was graded E5 6b, by Pete Livesey.[64]

7a (5.11d)

Redpointed by women

[edit]

9b (5.15b):[n]

9a+ (5.15a):

9a/9a+ :

9a (5.14d):[o][p]

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

8b+ (5.14a):

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

7c+/8a (5.13a/b) :

Pre-sport era

[edit]

Many of the notable first female ascents that achieved a new highest grade pre Fleur de Rocaille, are traditional climbing routes:

7c+ (5.13a):

7c (5.12d):

7b+ (5.12c):

7b (5.12b):

7a (5.11d):

6b+ (5.10d/11a):

6a (5.10a):

5a (5.7):



Onsighted / Flashed by men

[edit]

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

9a+ (5.15a):

  • Super Crackinette – Saint Léger (FRA) – 10 February 2018 – First-ever 9a+ flash (not onsight) in history, by Adam Ondra.[95]

9a (5.14d):

  • Southern Smoke Direct – Red River Gorge (USA) – 29 October 2012 – First-ever 9a flash (not onsight), by Adam Ondra.[96][97]
  • Estado Critico – Siurana (ESP) – 24 March 2013 – First-ever 9a onsight, by Alex Megos.[98]
  • Cabane au Canada – Rawyl (SUI) – 9 July 2013 – Second-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.[99]
  • Il Domani – Baltzola (ESP) – 3 May 2014 – Third-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.[100]
  • Water World – Pajkova Streha (SLO) – November 2022 – Fourth-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.[101]

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

8b+ (5.14a):

8b (5.13d):

  • Liaisons Dangereuses – Les Calanques (Les Goudes), (FRA) – 1993 – First-ever 8b onsight, by Elie Chevieux [de][10]
  • Public Enemy – Cuenca, (ESP) – 1993 – Originally considered the first 8a+/8b onsight, by Stefan Glowacz, but consensus grade is now 8b.[103]

8a+ (5.13c):

(unknown)

8a (5.13b):

7c+ (5.13a):

7c (5.12d):

7b+ (5.12c):

Onsighted / Flashed by women

[edit]

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

8c (5.14b):[q]

8b+ (5.14a):[r][s]

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

7b (5.12b):

  • Trojan – Mount Arapiles, Victoria (AUS) – 1981 – Onsight lead at grade 25 (5.12b) by Louise Shepherd.[90]

7a+ (5.12a):

6c+ (5.11b/c):

  • Kloeberdanz – Eldorado Canyon, CO (US) – 1977 – Onsight lead at 5.11c by Coral Bowman.[124]
  • Vulcan – Tremadog, (WAL) – 1980 – Onsight lead at E4 6a by Jill Lawrence.[94]

6c (5.11a/b):

  • Wide Country (first pitch) – Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – June 1973 – Early female onsight at 5.11a by Diana Hunter.[125][54][124][50]
  • Valhalla – Suicide Rock CA (US) – 1976 – Early female onsight at 5.11a by Maria Cranor.[126]
  • Naked Edge (first pitch) – Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – October 1976 – Onsight lead at 5.11a by Beth Bennett.[124]


Free-solo by men

[edit]

Important free-solos, all were rehearsed except as noted; does not include "highball" boulder ascents as the climbers here did not use padding or spotters.[127]

8c (5.14b):

  • Panem et Circenses – Length: 15 metres (49 ft) – Arco (IT) – March 2021 – First-ever 8c free solo, by Alfredo Webber, aged 52.[128]

8b+ (5.14a):

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

7c (5.12d)

7b (5.12b)

7a+ (5.12a)

  • Thimble – Length: 9 meters – Needles, SD, (US) – 1961 – First ascent and first-ever 7a+ free solo in history (and first-ever redpoint, see above), flashed by John Gill.[10][132]

7a (5.11d):

  • Spider Line – Length: 16 meters – Joshua Tree National Park, CA, (US) – February 1978 – First lead (free solo) and first free solo at 5.11d by John Yablonski.[133][134]

6c+ (5.11b/c):

  • Wall of Horrors – Length: 18 meters – Almscliff, (ENG) – 1961 – First lead (free solo) and first free solo at E3 6a by Allan Austin.[135]
  • Slip N Slide – Length: 8 meters – Peak District, (ENG) – 1976 – First lead (free solo) and first free solo at E6 6a by Ron Fawcett.[136]

6c (5.11a/b):

  • Western Front – Length: 13 meters – Almscliff, (ENG) – 1958 – First ascent, unrehearsed, now rated E3 5c, by Allan Austin.[64][135]

6b+ (5.10d/11a):

  • Left Wall – Length: 38 meters – Llanberis Pass, (ENG) – 1964 – First free ascent (free solo) rated E2 5c, by Rowland Edwards.[137]

6a+ (5.10b):

  • Sometime Crack – Length: 15 meters – Devil's Lake, WI, (US) – 1959 – Onsight first ascent by John Gill.[50]

6a (5.10a):

  • Cave Arete Indirect – Length: 18 meters – Laddow Rocks, (ENG) – 1916 – Free solo first ascent by Ivar Berg.[138]

Boulder problems

[edit]

Solved by men

[edit]

9A (V17):[t][u]

  • Alphane – Chironico (SUI) – April 6, 2022 – First ascent by Shawn Raboutou,[141][147] and first repeat by Aidan Roberts (October 2022); Roberts was silent on the grade having never climbed at V17, and having previously failed on Burden of Dreams.[148] William Bosi made a second repeat in November 2022, and after feeling that it was less of a challenge than his FA of Honey Badger 8C+, later felt it was still at 9A (V17).[149]

8C+ (V16):[v]

Christian Core on Gioia [fr]
  • Gioia [fr] – Varazze (ITA) – 2008 – Considered the first-ever 8C+ (V16), by Christian Core.[152] First repeat in 2011 by Adam Ondra who proposed an 8C+ grade, describing the boulder as one of the hardest in the world, together with Terranova (see below).[153] Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014, and Niccolo Ceria in 2020, who were silent on grade.[154][155] In 2015, it was discovered that new holds were chipped on the route, which Core tried to fix but not with complete success, leaving one new crimp that Core felt does lower the grade.[152] In 2021, a fifth repeat by Elias Lagnemma suggested a slightly lower grade of 8C/+ (using a kneepad).[142][156]

8C (V15):[w][x]

8B+ (V14):[y]

Dreamtime in Switzerland

8B (V13):

8A+ (V12):[z]

8A (V11):

7C+ (V10):

7C (V9):

  • Red Cross Overhang, or Gill Problem – Teton Range (US) – 1959 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a 7C (V9), by John Gill.[10][169]
  • Double Clutch – Flagstaff Mountain, Boulder, CO (US) – 1972 – Very early 7c (V8-V9) by Bob Williams.[175]
  • Speed of Light Dyno – Black Mountains (US) – 1979 – Considered an important early ascent of a 7C (V9), by John Long.[10]
  • L'Abbé Résina – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1983 – Considered an important early ascent of a 7C (V9), by Pierre Richard.[169]
Climber on Midnight Lightning

7B+ (V8):

7B (V8):

7A (V6):

6A (V3):

Solved by women

[edit]

8C/8C+ (V15/16) :

8C (V15):

8B+ (V14):

8B (V13):[aa]

8A+ (V12):

8A (V11):

7C+/8A :

7C+ (V10):

7C (V9):

7B+ (V8):

Multi-pitch routes

[edit]

Given the smaller number of entries for multi-pitch and big wall routes, the sections below combine milestones for overall and female ascents. In some cases (e.g. the Salathé Wall and Dawn Wall), the first free ascent was by a climbing pair alternating leads, and in such instances, the first individual to free climb all the pitches is also recorded.

Redpointed

[edit]

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

  • Wu Wei (180-metres, 5-pitches) – Picco delle Aquile, Dolomites (ITA) – 16 August 2023 – Second-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 9a (5.14d), by Alessandro Zeni.[194][198]

8c+ (5.14c):

  • Nirwana (200-metres, 5-pitches) – Sonnwendwand, (AUT) – 9 September 2012 – Second-ever multi-pitch redpoint at at 8c+ (5.14c), by Alexander Huber.[194][200][201]

8c (5.14b):

Climbers on the roof of Pan Aroma (and Bellavista) 8c (5.14b) on the Cima Ovest in the Dolomites.
  • Bellavista [it] (500-metres, 10-pitches) – Cima Ovest, Dolomites (ITA) – 18 July 2001 – First-ever big wall redpoint at 8c (5.14b), by Alexander Huber;[194][202] repeating the route in 2007 (to create Pan Aroma, also 8c), Huber found some key holds were "treated" from a 2005 attempt, and the crux was heavily lined with pegs, which had softened the grade to 8b/8b+.[203][204]

8b+ (5.14a):

  • The Nose (870-metres, 31-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 1993 – Second multi-pitch at 5.14a (8b+),[194] by Lynn Hill (partnered by Brooke Sandahl); the big-wall free climb is considered as one of the most important ascents in rock climbing history, and also a major milestone in female rock climbing; in 1994, Hill repeated it in under 24 hours; took over a decade for the first clean repeat.[210]

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

7c+ (5.13a):

7b+ (5.12c):

  • Regular Northwest Face (690-meters, 24 pitches) – Half Dome, Yosemite (USA) – 1976 – First big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Art Higbee and Jim Erickson.[215][216][213] 20 years later, a variation to the crux pitch was found to keep the entire route at 5.12a.
  • Hall of Mirrors (650-meters, 16 pitches) – Glacier Point, Yosemite (USA) –1980 – Second big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Chris Cantwell, Scott Burk, Scott Cole.[217][50][213]
  • Amarcord (400-metres, 9-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1984 – Third big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c), by Martin Scheel [de].[209]

Free-soloed

[edit]

All of these climbs were rehearsed except as noted below.

7c+ (5.13a):

Alex Honnold's 2017 free solo of Freerider (5.13a, 7c+), El Capitan

7b+ (5.12c):

The famous "fish" feature on The Fish Route [de], Marmolada

7b (5.12b):

7a+ (5.12a):

6c+ (5.11b/c):

6b+ (5.10d/11a):

  • The Boldest (75-meters, 2-pitches) – Clogwyn (WAL) – 1969 – Multi-pitch free solo at E4 5c by Alan Rouse.[64]
  • Pipeline (140-meters, 4-pitches) – Squamish BC (CAN) – 1979 – Onsight First Free Ascent at 5.10d by Greg Cameron.[134]
  • Scenic Cruise (600-meters, 14-pitches) – Black Canyon, CO – (US) – 1979 – Big wall free solo, four pitches soloed on sight, by Earl Wiggins.[134]

6b (5.10c):

  • Vector (90-meters, 4-pitches) – Tremadog (UK) – 1969 – Multi-pitch free solo at E2 5c by Alan McHardy.[137]
  • Sooberb (70-meters, 3-pitches) – Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – 1972 – Onsight First Free Ascent at 5.10c by Jim Erickson.[54][226]

6a+ (5.10b):

6a (5.10a):

5c (5.9):

5b (5.8):

5a (5.7):


See also

[edit]

Notes

[edit]
  1. ^ Excluded from 9c: Alex Megos's Bibliographie (2020) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade by Stefano Ghisolfi (that Megos agreed with), and Sean Bailey's (2020) further confirmation that it is at 9b+ (it ranks as the fifth-ever 9b+ in history).[3][4]
  2. ^ Excluded from 9b+: Bernabè Fernandez [es]'s Chilam Balam [fr] (2003), was an unconfirmed and disputed first ascent that Fernandez proposed at 9b+ (5.15c) (the world's first-ever 9b+), which Adam Ondra regraded to a "low end" 5.15b (9b) in 2008, and which was further downgraded by later repeaters to a consensus of "hard 9a+ or 9a+/b".[9]
  3. ^ Excluded from 9b: Dani Andrada [fr]'s Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension (2007) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade to 9a+/b by Alex Garriga,[18][19][20] and further downgraded to 9a by Dani Moreno in 2023.[21]
  4. ^ Excluded from 9b: Dani Andrada [fr]'s Delincuente Natural (2008) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade to 9a by Jonathan Flor, who made the first repeat.[22]
  5. ^ Excluded from 9b: Fred Rouhling's Akira (1995) is excluded post its 2020 downgrade to 9a by Seb Bouin and Lucien Martinez.[23]
  6. ^ Not included in 9b: Tommy Caldwell's Flex Luthor (2003) is not included as Matty Hong's 2021 upgrade to 9b included the breaking of over a dozen handholds and twenty footholds, so much so that Hong could not opine on whether it was the same route Caldwell climbed, and Caldwell himself intervened to say that it was not as hard as Jumbo Love.[24][25] In November 2022, Jonathan Siegrist made the fourth ascent and downgraded it to 9a+ (5.15a)[26]
  7. ^ Excluded from 9a+: Alexander Huber's Weiße Rose (1994) was graded 8c+ but Adam Ondra's 2008 repeat estimated it at 9a (and potentially 9a+, which would have made it the world first-ever 9a+), however, Jakob Schubert's 2020 repeat confirmed it 9a.[31]
  8. ^ Excluded from 9a+: Bernabè Fernandez [es]'s Orujo (1998), was an unconfirmed and disputed ascent that Fernandez proposed at 9a+ (5.15a) (the world's first-ever 9a+ at the time), which has not been repeated due to concerns over manufacturing of holds.[32][33]
  9. ^ Not included in 8c:Jerry Moffatt's Stone Love (1988), is listed in some climbing databases as the world's second-ever 8c,[37] however, its consensus grade is considered at 8b+.[42]
  10. ^ Not included in 8b+: Wolfgang Güllich's Dead Line (1986) is listed in some climbing databases as the world's third-ever 8b+,[37] however, its consensus grade is now closer to 8b.[43]
  11. ^ Not included in 8b: Martin Scheel [de]'s Vuelo a Ciegas Direct (trans: Blind Fight) which was Spain's first 8b and sometimes mistaken as being climbed in 1984,[10] whereas Scheel did the first ascent in 1986.[45]
  12. ^ Not included in 8a+: Dave Cuthbertson's traditional climb Requiem (1983) is listed in some climbing databases as the world's second-ever 8a+,[37] however, its consensus grade is now closer to 8a (or E8 6b in the English traditional grading system).[47]
  13. ^ Not included in 8a: Peter Cleveland's Phlogiston (1977) at Devil's Lake is sometimes proposed as a first 8a (5.13b),[10] but it was clarified as a top rope.[48]
  14. ^ Excluded from 9b: Laura Rogora's 2020 ascent of Dani Andrada [fr]'s Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension (2007),[66] is excluded post its 2021 downgrade from 9b to 9a+/b by Alex Garriga.[18][19]
  15. ^ Excluded from 9a: Sasha Digiulian's 2012 ascent of Era Vella, which was at the time considered the fourth-ever female ascent of a 9a.[81] Era Vella has since been downgraded to 8c+/9a in the main climbing databases.[82]
  16. ^ Not included in 9a: Alizée Dufraisse's 2012 ascent of La Reina Mora, which is sometimes considered as being 9a (thus the fourth-ever female 9a), but the climbing databases regard La Reina Mora as 8c+/9a.[83]
  17. ^ Excluded from 8c:Kajsa Rosén [cs]'s onsight of T-1 Full Equip in March 2016 was considered a possible first female 8c onsght,[111] but the consensus grade was settled at 8b+ in 2021.[112][113]
  18. ^ Not included in 8b+: Katie Brown's onsight of Omaha Beach in 1999 is sometimes mistakenly classed as an 8b+ onsight,[118] however, several holds had broken from the sandstone route since Brown's onsight, and the original route was not considered an 8b+ (5.14a)-graded route.[119][120]
  19. ^ Not included in 8b+:Charlotte Durif [fr] lists a number of 8b+ onsights in her personal database: Spider cochon (2008), Ultime démence (2009), Basse température (2009) and Snails paradise (July 2010), that would rank as the earliest 8b+ female onsights,[118] however, they have not been verified in climbing media (unlike Les Rois du Pétrole in 2010).[121]
  20. ^ Excluded from V17: Charles Albert's No Kpote Only (2019) was proposed at V17 but was downgraded by the first and second repeaters, Ryohei Kameyama (to V16 in 2020) and Nicolas Pelorson respectively (to V15 in 2020).[139]
  21. ^ Not included in V17: Simon Lorenzi's Soudain Seul (2021), proposed at V17 but repeated by Nicolas Pelorson (2021) who felt it was V16 saying "V17 is impossible for Soudain Seul because you do a V12 before a V14/15"; a second repeat by Camille Coudert (2022) upheld the V17 grade, however, it remains listed as V16 or V16/V17 in the main climbing databases (e.g thecrag).[140][141]
  22. ^ Excluded from 8C+: Dai Koyamada's The Wheel of Life (2004), once considered the first 8C+ but since downgraded to 8C (V15); it links several boulder problems over 68 moves and is now regarded as more a sport climbing route, with grade of 9a (5.14d).[151]
  23. ^ Not included in V15: Markus Bock [de]'s Gossip (April 2002) was proposed by Bock at 8B+ (V14) but later revised upwards by Bock to 8C (V15),[162] however, a first repeat by John Gaskins disputed the grade and felt it was closer to 8B+ (V14); led to a very acrimonious public exchange with Bock.[163][164][165]
  24. ^ Not included in V15: Klem Loskot's Emotional Landscapes SS (November 2002), was originally proposed by Loskot at 8B+ (V14), and Martin Moser's 2004 repeat was silent on the grade (he used different beta), however, Nalle Hukkataival's second repeat in 2014 (who also used different beta) suggested a possible 8C (V15), one of the world's first;[166] currently listed at 8B+/C (note the standing start is 8A+).[167]
  25. ^ Excluded from V14: Werner Thom's Zerberus (1997), was downgraded to V13 (8B) on its repeat by Thomas Lindinger in 2017.[170]
  26. ^ Excluded from V12: Jacky Godoffe [it]'s Partenaire Particulier (1987), which was considered at 8A+ (V12),[10] but has since been regraded to 8A (V11) in the main climbing databases.
  27. ^ Not included in V13: Therese Johansen's ascent of Bernd Zangerl [fr]'s Propaganda (May 2011) would have ranked as the third-ever female ascent of a V13 (8B), but she downgraded the boulder herself to hard V12 or maybe V13 after climbing it.[188]

References

[edit]
  1. ^ "Chris Sharma Turns 40 Today, Happy Birthday!". Gripped.com. 23 April 2021. Retrieved 22 December 2021.
  2. ^ McDonald, Dougald (15 June 2012). "Groundbreaking 5.15 Gets Second Ascent". Outside. Retrieved 22 December 2021.
  3. ^ "Sean Bailey sends Bibliographie at Céüse". PlanetMountain. 3 September 2021. Retrieved 21 June 2022.
  4. ^ "These are the most difficult climbing routes in the world". LACrux. 16 May 2022. Retrieved 21 November 2022.
  5. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (September 4, 2017). "Interview: Adam Ondra climbs world's first 9c at Flatanger in Norway". Retrieved September 4, 2017.
  6. ^ Van Leuven, Chris (9 September 2017). "Interview: Adam Ondra on What It Took to Climb the World's First 5.15d". Climbing. Retrieved 28 December 2021.
  7. ^ Walsh, Anthony (5 May 2022). "Seb Bouin Does Potential 5.15d FA, World's Second of the Grade". Climbing. Retrieved 9 May 2022.
  8. ^ "Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger". PlanetMountain. 28 September 2023. Retrieved 28 September 2023.
  9. ^ "Jonatan Flor Sends Chilam Balam 5.15a/b, First Climbed in 2003". Gripped. 10 November 2021. Retrieved 23 June 2022.
  10. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj ak al am an ao ap aq ar as at au av aw ax ay az ba bb bc bd be bf bg bh bi bj bk bl bm bn bo bp bq br bs bt bu bv bw bx by bz ca cb cc cd ce cf cg ch ci cj ck cl cm cn co cp cq cr cs ct cu cv cw cx cy cz da db Oviglia, Maurizio (23 December 2012). "The evolution of free climbing". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 4 January 2022.
  11. ^ Dougald MacDonald (4 October 2012). "Adam Ondra Climbs 5.15c in Norway". Climbing. Retrieved 7 October 2012.
  12. ^ Natalie Berry, ed. (September 28, 2020). "Second Ascent of Change 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi". Retrieved October 14, 2020.
  13. ^ Potter, Stephen (8 August 2022). "Seb Bouin Gets Third Ascent of the World's First 5.15c". Climbing. Retrieved 18 November 2022.
  14. ^ "Ondra Puts Down La Dura Dura (5.15c)". Climbing. Retrieved 7 February 2013.
  15. ^ "La Dura Complete: The Full Story Of The Hardest Rock Climb In The World". Climbing. 26 March 2014. Retrieved 29 December 2021.
  16. ^ "Ondra Completes Third 5.15c First Ascent". www.climbing.com. 5 December 2013.
  17. ^ "Jakob Schubert claims third ascent of Perfecto Mundo 9b+ at Margalef". PlanetMountain. 9 November 2019. Retrieved 23 June 2022.
  18. ^ a b "Ali Hulk extensión total sit start 9a+ (b) by Alex Garriga". 8a.nu. 23 August 2021. Retrieved 26 June 2022.
  19. ^ a b "[Translated] Álex Garriga chains 'Ali Hulk extension total sit start' and leaves it at 9a+" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). 23 August 2021. Retrieved 26 June 2022.
  20. ^ a b Potter, Stephen (25 October 2022). "Seb Bouin Claims 4th Ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b)". Climbing. Retrieved 18 November 2022.
  21. ^ Fernandez, Isaac (15 May 2023). "Dani Moreno chains 'Ali Hulk extension total sit start' and leaves it in 9a" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). Retrieved 16 August 2023.
  22. ^ Fernandez, Isaac (17 August 2021). "Jonatan Flor scores the first repetition of 'Natural Delinquent' thirteen years later" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). Retrieved 15 July 2023.
  23. ^ Levy, Michael (24 November 2020). "Fred Rouhling's "Akira," World's First Proposed 5.15b in 1995, Finally Repeated; Downgraded to 5.14d". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 22 June 2022.
  24. ^ Potter, Steven (18 October 2021). "Matty Hong Sends Tommy Caldwell's Flex Luthor—Upgrades to 5.15b". Climbing. Retrieved 26 January 2022. When I asked Hong what he thought about it, he said that after breaking roughly half a dozen handholds and 20 footholds off the route in his early attempts, he could say with confidence that the climb had changed, though he couldn't weigh in on how those changes had changed the grade, nor could he measure the impact of the climbers who'd attempted to the climb before him.
  25. ^ Miller, Delaney (11 November 2021). "Carlo Traversi Makes Third Ascent of Flex Luthor, 5.15b". Climbing. Retrieved 23 June 2022. After breaking multiple holds on the route, Hong upgraded it to 15b, adding that it was unclear just how much the route has changed since it was originally established and how hard it was when Caldwell made the first ascent.
  26. ^ Potter, Stephen (9 November 2022). "Jonathan Siegrist Repeats 'Flex Luthor,' Skeptical of 5.15b Upgrade". Climbing. Retrieved 21 November 2022.
  27. ^ "Ethan Pringle Repeats Jumbo Love". Climbing.com. Climbing Magazine. 18 May 2015.
  28. ^ "Interview: Jonathan Siegrist Goes Big with Third Ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b)". 17 May 2018.
  29. ^ "Adam Ondra climbs Golpe de estado at Siurana". PlanetMountain. 22 March 2010. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
  30. ^ "Ondra Puts "Neanderthal" (5.15b) to Rest". Rock & Ice. 12 February 2019. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
  31. ^ "Jakob Schubert repeats Weiße Rose, Alexander Huber Schleierwasserfall masterpiece". PlanetMountain. 30 April 2020. Retrieved 23 June 2022.
  32. ^ Fernandez, Isaac (14 April 2020). "[Translated] 'Akira' and 'Orujo', two cursed tracks" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  33. ^ Larrssen, Jens (13 August 2020). "The first 9a+ to 9c". Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  34. ^ McDonald, Dougald (15 June 2012). "Open Air: Groundbreaking 5.15 Gets Second Ascent". Outside. Retrieved 22 December 2021.
  35. ^ Bisharat, Andrew (4 April 2016). "Setting and Revising the Record in Climbing". EveningSends. Retrieved 21 June 2022. The other interesting point about Open Air that's worth mentioning is that the route reportedly contains some rather flaky holds that have broken off over the years. So was the Open Air that Ondra climbed the exact same route that Alex Huber climbed? Maybe, but probably not.
  36. ^ "Will Bosi repeats Mutation, 23 years after Steve McClure's first ascent at Raven Tor". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2023-02-23.
  37. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj ak al am "Historical Men's Hardest Sends". Climbingfr. 2022. Retrieved 26 June 2022.
  38. ^ a b "The first 8c+ (8c+/9a) and 9a in history books". 8a.nu. 2021. Retrieved 15 January 2022.
  39. ^ Berry, Nathalie (10 July 2020). "4th Ascent of Liquid Ambar 8c+ by Kieran Forrest". UKClimbing. Retrieved 15 July 2023.
  40. ^ a b c d e f g h i Jourdain, Philippe (20 October 2020). "[Translated] The history of climbing: the evolution of ratings". Grimper. Retrieved 22 June 2022.
  41. ^ a b c "Sébastien Bouin repeats Agincourt at Buoux, France's historic first 8c". PlanetMountain. 20 November 2018. Retrieved 23 June 2022.
  42. ^ "Jerry Moffat's Frankenjura Stone Love in Lines Of Legends". PlanetMountain. 18 February 2022. Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  43. ^ "Crag: Klagemauer (Frankenjura, Germany)". 8a.nu. Retrieved 27 June 2022. Dead Line 8b
  44. ^ "Adam Ondra climbing To Bolt Or Not To Be at Smith Rock / VBlog #8". PlanetMountain. 13 December 2018. Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  45. ^ "[Translated] Geila Macià chained the earliest 8b with 'Blind Flight' at 12 years old" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). 22 September 2020. Retrieved 23 June 2022.
  46. ^ a b c "Seb Bouin's Vintage Rock Tour". PlanetGrimpeur. 2019. Retrieved 23 June 2022.
  47. ^ "Extreme trad climbing in Scotland: Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet repeat Rhapsody and Requiem". PlanetMountain. 8 September 2018. Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  48. ^ John Gill (2003). "Bouldering Companions: Pete Cleveland". Retrieved 5 January 2022.
  49. ^ "Cosmic Debris". Mountain Project.
  50. ^ a b c d e f g Ament, Pat (2002). A History of Free Climbing in America. Berkeley CA: Wilderness Press. pp. 186, 213. 231, 236, 247, 264 343–352. ISBN 0-89997-320-5.
  51. ^ Gerland, Bastien (29 April 2015). "[Translated] I'll go climb with you: Eaux Claires & Gémozac". Grimper. Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  52. ^ Lucas, James (23 May 2018). "Classic Routes: The Phoenix". Climbing. Retrieved 29 June 2022.
  53. ^ a b Erickson, Jim. "Cleaning Up Climbing History". Climbing.com.
  54. ^ a b c Godfrey, Bob (1977). Climb! (1st ed.). Boulder CO USA: Alpine House. pp. 210, 230, 224. ISBN 0-89158-318-1.
  55. ^ "The Pirate". Mountain Project.
  56. ^ a b Swain, Todd (1995). The Gunks Guide (3rd ed.). Evergreen CO: Chockstone Press. pp. 129, 196, 172. ISBN 0-934641-99-4.
  57. ^ "Iron Cross". Mountain Project.
  58. ^ "Genesis". Mountain Project.
  59. ^ Williams, Richard C. (1980). Shawangunk Rock Climbs (2nd ed.). New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. p. 46. ISBN 0-930410-11-4.
  60. ^ "Logbooks Constable's Overhang". UKClimbing.
  61. ^ "Watch Will Mayo Send World's First 5.12b Fish Crack in Yosemite". Gripped. 18 June 2016. Retrieved 29 June 2022.
  62. ^ "Macabre Wall". Mountain Project.
  63. ^ "Macabre Wall". The Crag.
  64. ^ a b c d Ward, Mick (14 January 2021). "The Stone Children". UKClimbing. Retrieved 15 July 2023.
  65. ^ Stefanello, Vinicio (7 November 2010). "The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2 January 2022.
  66. ^ "Watch Laura Rogora Climb Ali Hulk Sit Extension Total (5.15b)". Climbing. 3 September 2020. Retrieved 26 June 2022.
  67. ^ Planet Mountain (ed.). "Interview with Angela Eiter, the first woman to climb 9b". Retrieved 24 October 2017.
  68. ^ Planet Mountain (ed.). "Angela Eiter climbs historic first female 9b". Retrieved 23 October 2017.
  69. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj "Climbing Women's Hardest Sends". Climbingfr. 2022. Retrieved 28 June 2022.
  70. ^ "Anak Verhoven sends Planta de Shiva (9b) at Villanueva del Rosario in Spain". PlanetMountain. 16 May 2024. Retrieved 16 May 2024.
  71. ^ a b "Laura Rogora: the 9b/+ Erebor exploit interview". PlanetMountain.com. 5 October 2021. Retrieved 1 January 2022.
  72. ^ "Angela Eiter frees Madame Ching in Austria". PlanetMountain. 17 December 2020. Retrieved 30 September 2023.
  73. ^ a b c d e Bisharat, Andrew (1 March 2017). "American Woman Reaches a New Milestone in Rock Climbing". National Geographic. Archived from the original on January 4, 2022. Retrieved 4 January 2022.
  74. ^ The Outdoor Journal, ed. (18 September 2017). "Anak Verhoeven Becomes First Woman to Establish a 9a+". Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  75. ^ Rock and Ice, ed. (20 September 2017). "Anak Verhoeven On Making the First Female 5.15a First Ascent". Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  76. ^ planetmountain.com (ed.). "Cédric Lachat repeats Sweet Neuf, Anak Verhoeven's 9a+ and confirms grade". Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  77. ^ Rock and Ice, ed. (25 September 2017). "Margo Hayes Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a)". Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  78. ^ "Margo Hayes climbs Papichulo at Oliana, her third 9a+". PlanetMountain. 23 September 2019. Retrieved 28 June 2022.
  79. ^ planetmountain.com (ed.). "Josune Bereziartu and Bimbaluna 9a/9a+". Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  80. ^ planetmountain.com (ed.). "Ashima Shiraishi climbs 9a/9a+ a Santa Linya in Spain". Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  81. ^ a b c "Katherine Choong Climbs Jungfrau Marathon (9a): List of women in the 9a club". LACrux. 18 October 2019. Retrieved 28 June 2022.
  82. ^ Larrsen, Jens (20 April 2018). "Era Vella should officially be called 8c+". 8a.nu. Retrieved 28 June 2022.
  83. ^ "Alizée Dufraisse sends La Reina Mora 8c+/9a at Siurana". PlanetMountain. 24 January 2012. Retrieved 28 June 2022.
  84. ^ planetmountain.com (ed.). "Josune Bereziartu climbs first female 9a (interview)".
  85. ^ Fox, Amanda (June 2012). "Charlotte Durif Redpoints 5.14d in France". Climbing. Retrieved 28 June 2022.
  86. ^ "Muriel Sarkany Sending Punt X (5.14d)". Rock & Ice. 2014. Retrieved 28 June 2022.
  87. ^ a b planetmountain.com (ed.). "Noia 8c+ for Josune Bereziartu". Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  88. ^ a b c "The formative years of cutting edge rock climbing" (PDF). BOLFA (Climbing Club of South Australia). 4 (6): 4. February 2006. Retrieved 28 June 2022.
  89. ^ a b Waterman, Laura (1993). Yankee Rock and Ice. Mechanicsburg PA: Stackpole Books. p. 285. ISBN 0-8117-1633-3.
  90. ^ a b "Andy Pollitt and Louise Shepherd Interview". UKClimbing.
  91. ^ a b c "Louise Shepherd". Chockstone.org.
  92. ^ Ament, Pat (2002). A History of Free Climbing in America. Berkeley CA: Wilderness Press. pp. 213. 231, 236, 247, 264 343–352. ISBN 0-89997-320-5.
  93. ^ Waterman, Laura (1993). Yankee Rock and Ice. Mechanicsburg PA: Stackpole Books. p. 285. ISBN 0-8117-1633-3.
  94. ^ a b c "British First Ascents and Advances in the 70s and 80s". The Pinnacle Club.
  95. ^ "Adam Ondra / Interview after world's first 9a+ flash at St. Léger in France". planetemountain.
  96. ^ "Red River Gorge: Adam Ondra 9a flash and Ashima Shiraishi 8c+ redpoint". PlanetMountain. 30 October 2012. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  97. ^ "Ondra: Flash of Southern Smoke Direct (5.14d)". Climbing. 15 November 2012. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  98. ^ "Alexander Megos, l'intervista dopo il primo 9a a-vista mondiale". PlanetMountain.com.
  99. ^ Björn Pohl (9 July 2013). "La cabane au Canada, 9a, onsight by Ondra". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 10 July 2013.
  100. ^ "Adam ondra onsights Il domani (9a)". Youtube.
  101. ^ "Adam Ondra 9a onsight, Water World at Osp in Slovenia". PlanetMountain. 29 November 2022. Retrieved 20 March 2023.
  102. ^ a b c d "Adam Ondra, the 8c+ on-sight interview!". PlanetMountain. 10 March 2011. Retrieved 4 July 2022.
  103. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k "Historical Performances: Men Onsight". Climbingfr. 2022. Retrieved 4 July 2022.
  104. ^ "Yuji Hirayama world's first 8c on-sight!". planetmountain.com.
  105. ^ "Elie Chevieux". planetmountain.com.
  106. ^ ""Dancing about Architecture" – An interview with Antoine le Menestrel". Alpinismi (in Italian). 2017-12-12. Retrieved 2020-04-29.
  107. ^ a b c d e f Hobley, Nicholas; Grimes, Niall (26 February 2009). "Jerry Moffatt Interview". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 14 January 2022.
  108. ^ "UKC Logbook – 'Polpot'". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2020-04-29.
  109. ^ a b Hobley, Nicholas (17 November 2012). "Adieu Patrick Edlinger". PlanetMountain. It was at the famous Luberon crag Buoux that Edlinger first began to leave his indelible mark, climbing numerous routes up to 7a solo (such as the exposed Pilier des Fourmis), succeeding 30 years ago in the world's first 7b on-sight (Captain crochet) and then, in that magic 1982 and still at Buoux, managing to on-sight the world's first 7c, La polka des ringards.
  110. ^ "Rock Climb Ekel, Frankenjura". Mountain Project. Retrieved 2020-04-29.
  111. ^ "Kajsa Rosén and her perfect climbing state of mind at Oliana". PlanetMountain. 24 April 2016. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  112. ^ "Janja Garnbret: the first female 8c onsight interview". PlanetMountain. 8 November 2021. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  113. ^ "Janja Garnbret on-sights two F8c's at Oliana". Climber. 7 November 2021. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  114. ^ "Janja Garnbret flashes second 8c at Santa Linya". PlanetMountain.com. 3 December 2016. Retrieved 10 April 2022.
  115. ^ a b c Millar, Delaney (5 November 2021). "Janja Garnbret Becomes First Woman to Onsight 5.14b". Climbing. Retrieved 4 January 2022.
  116. ^ a b c d e "Janja Garnbret makes climbing history with first female 8c onsight, Fish Eye at Oliana". PlanetMountain. 3 November 2021. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  117. ^ "Chaehyun Seo second woman to onsight 8c, L'Antagonista at Montsant in Spain". PlanetMountain. 27 November 2022. Retrieved 25 April 2024.
  118. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n "Historical Performances: Women Onsight". Climbingfr. 2022. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  119. ^ a b "Sasha DiGiulian unstoppable at Red River Gorge". PlanetMountain. 24 March 2011. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  120. ^ Pohl, Bjorn (23 March 2011). "Sasha Digiulian onsights Omaha beach, 8b+". UKClimbing. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  121. ^ a b "Janja Garnbret Makes History with Fish Eye 5.14b Onsight". Gripped. 3 November 2021. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  122. ^ "Josune Bereziartu first woman to on-sight 8b+!". PlanetMountain. 18 April 2006. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  123. ^ "Maja Vidmar 8b+ on-sight at Oliana, Spain". PlanetMountain. 14 April 2010. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  124. ^ a b c d Achey, Jeff (2002). Climb! (2nd ed.). Seattle WA: The Mountaineers Books. pp. 137, 139, 250.
  125. ^ Briggs, Roger (November 1973). "Reflections on Recent Climbing in Boulder". Climbing Magazine. p. 10.
  126. ^ Boone, Alastair. "Maria Cranor Obituary". Berkeleyside.
  127. ^ "Kevin Jorgeson sends Ambrosia and blurs line between highball and free solo". 11 January 2009.
  128. ^ a b c Slavsky, Bennett (12 March 2021). "Alfredo Webber, Age 52, Free Solos 5.14b". Climbing. Retrieved 4 January 2022.
  129. ^ a b McDonald, Dougald (7 May 2004). "Huber Solos 5.14". Climbing. Retrieved 4 January 2022.
  130. ^ "MacLeod solos 5.14b in Spain". 15 June 2012.
  131. ^ "Being Bachar". Rock & Ice. March 2008. Retrieved 3 January 2023. [In 1982] 'I was so pissed off', says Bachar, 'That I went to Joshua Tree and soloed Baby Apes,' a 60-foot 5.12b/c he'd previously top roped but never led, thereby making the first "lead" of the now-classic line.
  132. ^ Ament, Pat (2002). Wizards of Rock: A History of Free Climbing in America, Wilderness Press
  133. ^ "Spider Line". Mountain Project.
  134. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k Osius, Alison (4 June 2022). "Free Solo Rock Climbing and the Climbers Who Have Defined the Sport". Climbing. Retrieved 26 November 2022.
  135. ^ a b "Climbers Allan Austin". Climbing History.
  136. ^ "Climber Ron Fawcett". Climbing History.
  137. ^ a b Ward, Mick. "The Vector Generation". UKClimbing.
  138. ^ "Ivar Berg". Climbing History.
  139. ^ "No Kpote Only Downgraded from V17 to V15". Gripped. 9 October 2020. Retrieved 30 June 2022.
  140. ^ Noonan, Daniel (22 February 2022). "From V17 to V16 and Back Again: Fontainebleau's Hardest Problem Sees a Third Ascent". Climbing. Retrieved 30 June 2022.
  141. ^ a b Miller, Delaney (22 August 2022). "Shawn Raboutou Does First Ascent of "Alphane" (V17)". Climbing. Retrieved 25 August 2022.
  142. ^ a b c d e Walker, Noah (27 January 2022). "The World's Hardest Boulder Problems". Gripped.com. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
  143. ^ Potter, Stephen (14 April 2023). "Will Bosi Sends 'Burden of Dreams' (V17)". Climbing. Retrieved 15 April 2023.
  144. ^ Corrigan, Kevin (7 April 2021). "Daniel Woods Spent a Month Alone in the Desert to Send the First US V17, He Came Back a Different Person". climbing.com. Retrieved 19 April 2021.
  145. ^ a b c d e f g Cote, Matt (28 September 2017). "12 Great Moments in Bouldering History". Outside. Retrieved 1 July 2022.
  146. ^ Potter, Stephen (21 February 2024). "Will Bosi Gets Second Ascent of 'Return of the Sleepwalker'—Confirms V17". Climbing. Retrieved 21 February 2024.
  147. ^ "Shawn Raboutou climbs Alphane, 9A boulder problem at Chironico". PlanetMountain. 22 August 2022. Retrieved 22 August 2022.
  148. ^ McLemore, Andrew (22 October 2022). "With Send of 'Alphane,' Aidan Roberts Nabs First-Ever V17 Repeat". GearJunkie.
  149. ^ Potter, Stephen (5 June 2023). "Watch Will Bosi Climb Alphane (V17) and Chat About His Training". Climbing. Retrieved 13 September 2023.
  150. ^ Pardy, Aaron (2022-11-16). "Shawn Raboutou Announces First Ascent of Megatron V17". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 2022-11-18.
  151. ^ "The Wheel of Life". Hard Climbs. 4 December 2021. Retrieved 8 January 2022.
  152. ^ a b "Core gives us the Gioia 8C+ history". 8a.nu. 19 December 2020. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
  153. ^ "Adam Ondra, the pure Gioia interview". PlanetMountain.com. 7 December 2011. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
  154. ^ "Niky Ceria in top form: Boulder Gioia (8c +) committed". LACrux.com. 23 December 2020. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
  155. ^ "Niccolò Ceria repeats Gioia, Christian Core's masterpiece at Varazze". PlanetMountain.com. 16 December 2020. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
  156. ^ "Elias Lagnemma Repeats Christian Core's Gioia V15/16". Gripped.com. 23 February 2021. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
  157. ^ "Shawn Raboutou Climbs Hukkataival's Highball "Livin' Large" in Rocklands". Rock & Ice. 8 October 2019. Retrieved 28 January 2022.
  158. ^ "Shawn Raboutou wins the third ascent of the 8c Boulder Livin 'Large in South Africa". LACrux. 10 October 2019. Retrieved 28 January 2022.
  159. ^ Clarke, Owen (9 March 2022). "Daniel Woods, World's Most Accomplished Boulderer". Climbing. Retrieved 26 June 2022.
  160. ^ "RockandIce.com | Dave Graham Sends "Hypnotized Minds" (V16), His Nemesis Boulder". www.RockandIce.com. 9 October 2019. Retrieved 2020-09-04.
  161. ^ "Adam ondra frees Terranova 8C+". PlanetMountain. 15 November 2011. Retrieved 1 August 2017.
  162. ^ "Gossip upgraded to 8C". Climbing.de. 26 November 2002. Retrieved 1 July 2022.
  163. ^ Pohl, Bjorn (2 June 2009). "3rd ascent of Gossip, 8C". UKClimbing. Retrieved 1 July 2022.
  164. ^ Larrsen, Jens (26 August 2009). "Gossip Gossip, The Emails". 8a.nu. Retrieved 2 July 2022.
  165. ^ Larrsen, Jens (2006). "Who to believe: Fact or fiction?". 8a.nu. Retrieved 2 July 2022.
  166. ^ Pohl, Bjorn (6 May 2014). "Nalle repeats Emotional Landscapes, ~8C". UKClimbing. Retrieved 2 July 2022.
  167. ^ Larrsen, Jens (6 May 2014). "Nalle Hukkataival does Emotional Landscapes 8B+ (C)". 8a.nu. Retrieved 2 July 2022.
  168. ^ a b "8a.nu, Monkey Wedding". 8a.nu. 20 August 2002. Retrieved 15 April 2020.
  169. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p "Historical Men's Bouldering". Climbingfr. 2022. Retrieved 1 July 2022.
  170. ^ "Thomas Lindinger Sends Zerberus (8B/V13), Frankenjura, Germany". Rock & Ice. 2017. Retrieved 1 July 2022.
  171. ^ Schulte, Chris (20 September 2021). "Listening for the Echo: The Klem Loskot Profile". Climbing. Retrieved 1 July 2022.
  172. ^ "Dreamtime at Cresciano, the boulder problem by Fred Nicole between dream and reality". PlanetMountain. 6 July 2017. Retrieved 30 June 2022.
  173. ^ "The Classics – Dreamtime (8C/V15), with Fred Nicole". Rock & Ice. 6 July 2017. Retrieved 30 June 2022.
  174. ^ Linville, Sarah (17 March 2014). "Isabelle Faus Climbs the World's First V12 Trice". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 21 April 2022.
  175. ^ "Double Clutch". Mountain Project.
  176. ^ "Midnight Lightning, the legendary boulder problem in Yosemite". PlanetMountain. 9 June 2017. Retrieved 3 February 2022.
  177. ^ Potter, Steven (5 September 2023). "Katie Lamb Sends "Box Therapy"—Becoming the First Woman to Climb V16". Climbing. Retrieved 5 September 2023.
  178. ^ "Brooke Raboutou climbs Box Therapy". UK Climbing. 13 October 2023. Retrieved 14 November 2023.
  179. ^ "Bereziartu climbs "E la nave va" 8c traverse". PlanetMountain.com. 24 May 2003. Retrieved 7 January 2022.
  180. ^ Rock and Ice, ed. (8 September 2016). "Ashima Shiraishi on Horizon (V15), Sleepy Rave (V15) & "Young Guns"". Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  181. ^ a b c d Gartner, Hannah (22 May 2019). "Young, Strong, and Pushing Grades: A Deeper Look at 13-Year-Old Mishka Ishi's Ascent of Byaku-dou (V15)". Climbing. Retrieved 20 January 2022.
  182. ^ a b c d Soon, Nathaniel (27 July 2023). "Is the First Female 8C+ Coming Soon? Article". UKClimbing. Retrieved 20 August 2023.
  183. ^ Rock & Ice, ed. (4 August 2016). "Ashima Tops Second V15, Sleepy Rave, Grampians, Australia". Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  184. ^ onbouldering.com, ed. (14 June 2018). "Kaddi Lehmann repeats Kryptos 8C". Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  185. ^ "First Woman to Boulder V14 (Video)". Climbing. 2012-10-21. Retrieved 2023-11-17.
  186. ^ "Ashima Shiraishi Becomes Second Female To Climb V14". Climbing. 2014-07-11. Retrieved 2023-11-17.
  187. ^ "Shuana Coxsey Climbs New Base Line (V14)". Climbing. 12 July 2014. Retrieved 2 June 2022.
  188. ^ a b c Fox, Amanda (15 June 2012). "First Female Ascent of Propaganda (V12/13)". Climbing. Retrieved 2 June 2022.
  189. ^ a b Roy, Adam (25 August 2010). "Climber Angie Payne Conquers Colorado's Automator". Outside. Retrieved 31 January 2022.
  190. ^ Fox, Amanda (15 June 2012). "10-Year-Old Repeats Crown of Aragorn (V13)". Climbing. Retrieved 2 June 2022.
  191. ^ "Historical of the performances: Female, top boulder history". ClimbingAway.fr. Retrieved 4 February 2022.
  192. ^ "Edu Marin Sends World's Biggest Roof Climb at 5.15a". Gripped Magazine (Canada). Retrieved 8 October 2024.
  193. ^ "Edu Marin makes first free ascent of Valhalla on Getu Grand Arch in China". PlanetMountain. 21 March 2019. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
  194. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m The Editors (20 March 2023). "These are the most difficult multi-pitch routes in the world". LACrux. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
  195. ^ Bisharat, Andrew (January 15, 2015). "Summiting Yosemite's Dawn Wall, Climbers Make History". news.nationalgeographic.com. Archived from the original on January 15, 2015. Retrieved 2015-01-15.
  196. ^ Czech free-climber Adam Ondra scales Yosemite rock wall in record time (The Daily Telegraph)
  197. ^ "Adam Ondra Completes Dawn Wall". Climbing. 22 November 2016. Retrieved 22 November 2016.
  198. ^ "Alessandro Zeni wires 'Wu Wei,' 9a multipitch in Val Nuvola established with Riccardo Scarian". PlanetMountain. 13 September 2023. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
  199. ^ Beckwith, Christian (15 September 2006). "MOST DIFFICULT MULTI-PITCH ROUTE IN THE WORLD?". Alpinist. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
  200. ^ "Alexander Huber, Sonnwand Nirwana above the Loferer Alm in Austria". PlanetMountain. 4 April 2013. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
  201. ^ Fernández, Isaac (20 November 2014). "Fabian Buhl: "Nirwana (200 m, 8c+) is one of the biggest multi-pitch challenges of the world"" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). Retrieved 8 October 2024.
  202. ^ "Bellavista, Alexander Huber climbs 8c on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo". PlanetMountain. 23 July 2001. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  203. ^ "Huber's Dolomite routes repeated". British Mountaineering Council. 21 July 2010. Retrieved 17 December 2022.
  204. ^ Mingolla, Federica (20 June 2022). "Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo". PlanetMountain. Retrieved 17 December 2022.
  205. ^ "Alexander Huber frees Pan Aroma 8c on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites". PlanetMountain. 8 August 2007. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
  206. ^ McDonald, Dougald (10 August 2007). "Huber Climbs Dolomites Mega-Roof". Climbing. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
  207. ^ "Cédric Lachat repeats Wogü in Rätikon, Switzerland". PlanetMountain. 3 July 2020. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
  208. ^ "MOrbayu 8c+/9a on Naranjo de Bulnes for Iker and Eneko Pou". PlanetMountain. 9 September 2009. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
  209. ^ a b c d Drozdz, Piotr; Jedrzejewska, Monika (2016). "(S)ending the Neverending" (PDF). Ascent 2016 (Climbing Magazine Special Edition). pp. 12–21. Retrieved 17 December 2022.
  210. ^ "Lynn Hill / 25 years ago the first free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan". PlanetMountain. 8 June 2018. Retrieved 17 December 2022.
  211. ^ a b c "End of Silence". PlanetMountain. April 2012. Retrieved 18 December 2022.
  212. ^ "Salathé Wall". PlanetMountain. 2018. Retrieved 17 December 2022.
  213. ^ a b c Sloan, Erik (2021). Yosemite Big Walls. Mariposa CA: Yosemite Big Walls. pp. 132, 326, 352, 400.
  214. ^ "El Capitan Freerider: Alexander Huber Yosemite masterpiece celebrates 20th anniversary". PlanetMountain. 5 October 2018. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  215. ^ a b "Yosemite rock climbing history timeline". Yosemite rock climbing history timeline.
  216. ^ McNamara, Chris (2011). Yosemite Big Walls. Mill Valley CA: Supertopo. pp. 172, 173. ISBN 978-0-9833225-0-4.
  217. ^ a b "100 Years of Big Wall Free Climbing". Gripped.com.
  218. ^ Franz, Derek (9 June 2017). "The world gasps in the aftermath of Alex Honnold's free solo of El Capitan's Freerider (5.13a, 3,000ft)". Alpinist. Retrieved 1 July 2023. originally rated 5.12d but now considered harder after a hold broke
  219. ^ "Exclusive: Climber Completes the Most Dangerous Rope-Free Ascent Ever". National Geographic Society. 3 June 2017. Archived from the original on June 3, 2017.
  220. ^ Mcphate, Mike (2017-06-06). "California Today: An 'Incomprehensible' Climb in Yosemite". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2017-06-06.
  221. ^ "Hansjörg Auer free solo Attraverso il Pesce – Fish route – in Marmolada". PlanetMountain.com.
  222. ^ Lambert, Erik (7 April 2008). "Honnold Free Solos Moonlight Buttress". Alpinist. Retrieved 17 December 2022.
  223. ^ Samet, Matt (19 April 2007). "About Michael Reardon". Climbing. Retrieved 17 December 2022.
  224. ^ "Adventurers of the Year 2005: Michael Reardon, Free Soloist". National Geographic. 26 April 2006. Archived from the original on March 8, 2021. Retrieved 17 December 2022.
  225. ^ "This is Still a Gripping Free-Solo Video – Alex Huber on a 20-Pitch 5.12a". Gripped Magazine. 2 November 2021. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  226. ^ a b Smoot, Jeff (2022). All And Nothing. Seattle WA USA: Mountaineers Books. pp. 288, 290. ISBN 978-1-68051-332-5.
  227. ^ a b c d e f Scott, Doug (1974). Big Wall Climbing. London UK: Kaye and Ward Ltd. pp. 18, 114, 115, 122. ISBN 0 7182 0967 2.

Further reading

[edit]
[edit]
Retrieved from "https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=List_of_grade_milestones_in_rock_climbing&oldid=1259153083"