Overhang (climbing)
In rock climbing, an overhang is a type of route that leans back at an angle of over 90 degrees for part or all of the climb, and at its most severe can be a horizontal roof. Overhang (and roof) climbs have existed throughout climbing, originally in aid climbing where mechanical devices were used to first scale them. They became more common in free climbing during the 1990s as sport climbers used new training methods that enabled them to climb routes that were continuously, and severely, overhanging. Overhangs (and roofs) also feature prominently in advanced bouldering and in competition climbing.[1][2]
Overhanging routes require a range of techniques to manage the demands placed on the upper body, as the feet are less weighted.[3] Body positioning — keeping the hips close to the rock face and the arms straight — is important. Advanced techniques such as the drop-knee, side-pulls-underclings-gastons, and the full range of heel and toe hooks are used for this. Knee-bars and bat hangs are used to rest on the routes. Overhangs can force dynamic movements such as campusing and dynos, where the feet lose contact with the face. Exiting an overhang (or roof) can require awkward mantle moves.[4][5]
Crack climbing techniques enabled traditional climbers to free climb dramatic roofs and overhangs, one of the most notable being Separate Reality.[6] In 1991, Wolfgang Gullich, who had set several grade milestones on bolted face climbing sport-routes, ascended the short but severely overhanging Action Directe creating the first-ever 9a (5.14d) graded route.[7] Gullich was a pioneer of plyometric training in climbing, which gave him the power to ascend severely overhanging routes.[8][9] All subsequent grade milestones in climbing would come from continuously overhanging sport-climbing routes including Realization/Biographie, the first-ever 9a+ (5.15a), Jumbo Love, the fist-ever 9b (5.15b), Change, the first-ever 9b+ (5.15c), and Silence the first-ever 9b+ (5.15c).[10][11] The dominance of overhanging routes in sport climbing, meant that they also became standard in competition climbing routes.[12]
Overhangs and roofs also feature prominently in advanced bouldering, including on notable routes such as The Mandala, Deamtime, The Wheel of Life, and the Burden of Dream, the world's first-ever v17 graded boulder.[13] Several notable multi-pitch climbing routes, and big wall climbing routes, feature famous overhangs and roofs, including "The Great Roof" on pitch 22 of The Nose on El Capitan,[14] and the enormous series of roofs on the north face of the Cima Ovest through which Bellavista ascends, the world's first-ever 8c (5.14b) graded multi-pitch route.[15] In 2019, Edu Marin freed Valhalla, the world's largest roof-climb spanning 405 metres (1,329 ft) over 14 pitches, and was also the world's first 5.15a (9a+) multi-pitch route.[16]
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ Long, John; Gaines, Bob (August 2022). "Introduction: Getting Started (Modes of Ascent)". How to Rock Climb (6th ed.). Falcon Guides. pp. vi–xx. ISBN 978-1493056262.
- ^ Bisharat, Andrew (6 October 2009). "Chapter 1: Ethics, Style, and Emergence of Sport Climbing". Sport Climbing: From Toprope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success. Mountaineers Books. ISBN 978-1594852701. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
- ^ Vultaggio, Chris (24 March 2021). "Learn to Master Roof Climbing". Climbing. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
- ^ Long, John; Gaines, Bob (August 2022). "Chapter 4: Face Climbing". How to Rock Climb (6th ed.). Falcon Guides. pp. 65–85. ISBN 978-1493056262.
Steep Face Technique)
- ^ DeBruijn, Bonnie (9 May 2020). "10 Techniques for Climbing Overhangs". Gripped Magazine (Canada). Retrieved 6 October 2024.
- ^ "Heinz Zak solos Yosemite's Separate Reality". PlanetMountain. 9 June 2005. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
- ^ Hobley, Nicholas. "Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece". PlanetMountain. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
- ^ "Jerry Moffatt's Classic 1990's Campus Board Film". Gripped. 17 October 2018. Retrieved 28 November 2022.
- ^ "Jerry Moffatt: from the Campus Board to early sports climbing training". PlanetMountain. 26 April 2016. Retrieved 28 November 2022.
- ^ Pardy, Aaron (2 February 2024). "10 Climbing Grade Milestones Since 1961". Gripped Magazine (Canada). Retrieved 5 October 2024.
- ^ Oviglia, Maurizio (23 December 2012). "The evolution of free climbing". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 4 January 2022. Retrieved 30 September 2024.
- ^ Burgman, John (10 August 2024). "Olympic Climbing 101: Everything You Need to Know About Climbing at the 2021 Tokyo Olympics". Climbing. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
- ^ Pardy, Aaron (4 March 2024). "The Many Betas of Burden of Dreams V17". Gripped Magazine (Canada). Retrieved 8 October 2024.
- ^ Bisharat, Andrew (24 June 2015). "Climb Yosemite's El Capitan Like a Rock Star—From Your Computer". National Geographic. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
The Great Roof
- ^ McDonald, Dougald (10 August 2007). "Huber Climbs Dolomites Mega-Roof". Climbing. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
- ^ "Edu Marin Sends World's Biggest Roof Climb at 5.15a". Gripped Magazine (Canada). Retrieved 8 October 2024.
Further reading
[edit]- Long, John; Gaines, Bob (August 2022). How to Rock Climb (6th ed.). Falcon Guides. ISBN 978-1493056262.
- The Mountaineers (2018). Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (9th ed.). Quiller Publishing. ISBN 978-1846892622.
- Donahue, Topher (December 2016). Advanced Rock Climbing: Expert Skills and Techniques. The Mountaineers. ISBN 978-1-59485-862-8.
