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Angie Payne
Personal information
Born (1984-11-06) November 6, 1984 (age 40)
Cincinnati, Ohio, U.S.
EducationUniversity of Colorado Boulder
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height5 ft 5 in (165 cm)[1]
Weight55 kg (121 lb)[1]
Websiteangiepayneclimbing.com
Climbing career
Type of climberBouldering
Highest grade
Known forfirst-ever female to climb an 8B (V13) boulder

Angela Payne (born November 6, 1984) is an American rock climber specializing in bouldering, who won a clean sweep of the 2003-2004 US American Bouldering Series, and who in 2010, became the first-ever female in history to climb an 8B (V13) boulder.[2]

Early years

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Payne was born and raised in Cincinnati, Ohio.[3] She began indoor sport climbing at the age of 11,[4] and competed in a number of junior sport climbing competitions before switching to bouldering at age 15 to 16.[3][5] Payne says that her early idols were Lynn Hill, and as she began to focus on bouldering, Lisa Rands.[6] In 2003, she moved to Boulder to attend college at the University of Colorado Boulder to study veterinary science, graduating in 2010.[3][6]

Climbing career

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Competition climbing

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Aged 19, and in her first year in college, Payne won a clean sweep of all three of the American Bouldering Series 5, national championship events, (and thus became the overall ABS 5 champion),[7] and two Professional Climbers Association (PCA) competitions, (and also the overall PCA championship),[8] for the 2003-2004 boulder season.[3][4] Payne finished second overall (2012), and third overall (2006, 2007, and 2015) in the annual US Bouldering Open National Championships (what the ABS became post-2004).[3] Amongst other podiums and victories in individual competitions,(e.g. the 2006 SENDFEST in Salt Lake City,[9] and the 2010 Triple Crown Series at Horse Pens 40 in Steele, Alabama[10]),[1] in 2013, Payne won the Hueco Rock Rodeo at Hueco Tanks, in Texas.[11]

Bouldering

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From 2004 to 2009, Payne completed the first female ascent of numerous bouldering problems graded V10 (7C+) to V12 (8A+),[1][4] as well as making the third female ascent of the classic Midnight Lightning in 2004,[6] and earning an honourable mention in Climbing magazine's 2007 Golden Piton Award [fr] for her climbs,[4][12] and winning her the 2007 Everest Award for Female Boulderer of the Year, at the 2007 Teva Mountain Games (Chris Sharma won the male award).[13] In early 2008, Payne climbed Chbalank in Hueco Tanks at V11/V12, and in September 2008, she climbed Dave Graham's European Human Being in the Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) at "hard" V12 (8A+) and her first V12.[1][14] In February 2009, she climbed Atomic Playboy in Fontainebleau in France, another V12 (8A+).[14] In June 2010, she climbed Clear Blue Skies, and made the first female ascent of No More Green Grasses, at Mount Blue Sky, both at grade V12 (8A+).[1][15]

On August 17, 2010, Payne became the first-ever female in history to complete a confirmed 8B (V13) boulder, with her ascent of The Automator in the RMNP (Anna Stöhr would complete the second-ever female ascent of an 8B (V13) just one month later).[3][5][16] She won a second honourable mention in Climbing magazine's 2010 Golden Piton Awards.[17] In 2012, Payne, rock climber Ethan Pringle, and mountainer Mike Libecki went to the Kangertittivatsiaq fjord in south east Greeland on a bouldering and climbing expedition.[18][19] In July 2014, Payne sent her second 8B (V13) boulder, Freaks of the Industry, in Lower Chaos Canyon in the RMNP,[20] a project she had spent several seasons working on, and which she ranked as one of the achievements she was most proud of in her career.[3][21]

Rock climbing

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In 2015, Payne branched into big wall climbing, ascending the 3,264-foot spire of Poumaka in French Polynesia, with Libecki,[5][22] which was captured in the film, Poumaka (2016).[23]

Personal life

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In 2016, Payne was working for USA Climbing.[24] She is a keen amateur photographer.[24]

Payne has spoken openly about the prevalence of eating disorders in her sport,[1] and contributes prominently to a documentary on the subject called Light (2021), by Caroline Treadway.[25][26][27]

Bibliography

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  • Women Who Dare: North America's Most Inspiring Women Climbers (Chris Noble), 2013, Falcon Guides. page 173–185. ISBN 978-0762783717.
  • Better Bouldering, 2nd Edition, (John Sherman), 2011, Falcon Guides. Chapter 12: A Woman's Perspective (Angie Payne) ISBN 978-0762770311.

Filmography

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  • Award-winning documentary on eating disorders in climbing : Caroline Treadway (director) (2021). Light (Motion picture). See Thru Films. Retrieved February 1, 2022.
  • Documentary on ascent of her ascent of Poumaka : Keith Ladzinski, Andy Mann (director) (2016). Poumaka Tower (Motion picture). 3 String Prod. Retrieved February 1, 2022.
  • Documentary on leading climbers featuring Payne : Kyle Berkompas (director) (2013). Exposure Vol. 1 (Motion picture). Fryberger Films. ASIN B00IWX37JS. Retrieved February 1, 2022.[28]
  • Documentary on leading climbers featuring Payne : Mike Call (director) (2007). MVM Volume 2 (Motion picture). Momentum Media. Retrieved February 1, 2022.

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b c d e f g Quinn, Neely (June 2013). "Podcast TBP 004: Angie Payne on V14, Failures, Rivals, Diet, Weight, and Training". TrainingBeta. Retrieved February 1, 2022.
  2. ^ Cote, Matt (September 28, 2017). "12 Great Moments in Bouldering History". Outside. Retrieved July 1, 2022.
  3. ^ a b c d e f g Osius, Alison (January 17, 2017). "Angie Payne: What I've Learned". Rock & Ice. Retrieved January 31, 2022.
  4. ^ a b c d "About Angela Payne". Climbing. February 6, 2008. Retrieved January 31, 2022.
  5. ^ a b c Van Leuven, Chris (June 24, 2015). "Interview with Angie Payne". Alpinist. Retrieved January 31, 2022.
  6. ^ a b c Achey, Jeff (October 11, 2011). "Legends: Angie Payne". Climbing. Retrieved January 31, 2022.
  7. ^ McDonald, Dougald (April 6, 2004). "Sharma, Payne Win ABS National". Climbing. Retrieved January 31, 2022.
  8. ^ McDonald, Dougald (May 17, 2004). "Payne, Hume Take PCA Championship". Climbing. Retrieved February 1, 2022.
  9. ^ Dewell, Dan (August 16, 2006). "Shirts-Off-Screaming High-Energy: The SENDFEST Recap, Angie Payne and Ethan Pringle Winners". Climbing. Retrieved February 1, 2022.
  10. ^ "Triple Crown Bouldering Series 2010: Horse Pens 40". Climbing. June 15, 2012. Retrieved February 1, 2022.
  11. ^ Carpenter, Shelby (February 19, 2013). "Robinson and Payne Dominate Hueco". Rock & Ice. Retrieved January 31, 2022.
  12. ^ Ryan, Mick (February 5, 2007). "Climbing Magazine's Golden Piton Awards". UKClimbing.com. Retrieved February 1, 2022.
  13. ^ McDonald, Dougald (June 7, 2007). "Teva Mountain Games Results". Climbing. Retrieved February 1, 2022.
  14. ^ a b "Johnson, Puccio & Payne Crushing V12 In Colorado". ClimbingArc.com. September 5, 2008. Retrieved January 31, 2022.
  15. ^ "No more greener grasses, 8A+, for Angie Payne". Climbing.de. June 1, 2010. Retrieved January 31, 2022.
  16. ^ Roy, Adam (August 25, 2010). "Climber Angie Payne Conquers Colorado's Automator". Outside. Retrieved January 31, 2022.
  17. ^ "2010 Golden Piton Awards". Climbing. February 1, 2011. Retrieved January 31, 2022.
  18. ^ "Climbing in Greenland with Payne, Libecki and Pringle". Gripped.com. May 16, 2013. Retrieved January 31, 2022.
  19. ^ Payne, Angela (November 6, 2013). "Beginning Again: What a Pro Boulderer Learned on Her First Expedition". Climbing. Retrieved February 1, 2022.
  20. ^ Cyphers, Laren (August 4, 2014). "Angie Payne Gets Freaky with Her Second V13". Rock and Ice. Retrieved February 3, 2021.
  21. ^ Payne, Angie (April 2, 2017). "More Power! A Woman's Guide to Bouldering Strength". Rock & Ice. No. 241. Retrieved February 1, 2022.
  22. ^ Mann, Andy (2015). "A 16-Day First Ascent Sufferfest". Outside. Retrieved January 31, 2022.
  23. ^ "POUMAKA". MountainFilm.org. 2016. Retrieved January 31, 2022.
  24. ^ a b "Angie Payne: the rock climber with a passion for photography". LimitlessPursuits. June 12, 2016. Retrieved February 1, 2022.
  25. ^ "Light, a film about eating disorders in pro rock climbing by Caroline Treadway". PlanetMountain.com. February 3, 2021. Retrieved February 1, 2022.
  26. ^ Samet, Matt (February 5, 2021). "The Light Documentary Raises an Important Conversation About Eating Disorders in Climbing". Climbing. Retrieved February 1, 2022.
  27. ^ "LIGHT, A Film Revealing The Hidden World Of Eating Disorders in Professional Climbing". Rock & Ice. February 3, 2021. Retrieved February 1, 2022.
  28. ^ "The Best Climbing Movies Streaming Online Right Now". Climbing. August 25, 2022. Retrieved November 13, 2022.
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