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Converse (brand)

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Converse
Company typeSubsidiary
Industry
FoundedFebruary 1908; 116 years ago (1908-02) in Malden, Massachusetts, U.S.[1]
FounderMarquis Mills Converse
HeadquartersBoston, Massachusetts, U.S.
Number of locations
136 (2023)[2]
Area served
Worldwide
Key people
Scott Uzzell (president and CEO)
Products
Brands
RevenueIncrease US$2.4 billion (2023)[2]
Parent
Websiteconverse.com

Converse (/ˈkɒnvərs/) is an American lifestyle brand that markets, distributes, and licenses footwear, apparel, and accessories. Founded by Marquis Mills Converse in 1908 as the Converse Rubber Shoe Company in Malden, Massachusetts, it has been acquired by several companies before becoming a subsidiary of Nike, Inc. in 2003.[3]

Converse initially produced winterized rubber-soled shoes and boots. During World War II, it shifted manufacturing to make footwear for the military.[4] Initially, it was one of the few producers of athletic shoes and dominated the U.S. market, but lost its position in the 1970s as competitors introduced their styles.

Converse's portfolio includes products under the Chuck Taylor All-Stars, Cons, Jack Purcell, One Star, and Star Chevron trademarks. It frequently collaborates on special-edition product releases with other brands such as John Varvatos. The growth of Converse as a casual fashion accessory contributed to $2.4 billion in revenue in 2023.[2]

History

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1908–1940: Early years

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Forty-seven-year-old Marquis Mills Converse, a manager at a footwear manufacturing firm, opened the Converse Rubber Shoe Company in February 1908, in Malden, Massachusetts.[5] The company was a rubber shoe manufacturer, and its early inventory included winterized rubber-soled footwear, galoshes, tennis shoes, and some non-footwear items like automobile tires. In summer of 1916, the Converse basketball line was established; by 1917 the Converse All-Star basketball shoe was introduced and quickly became successful during World War I and the Spanish flu.[6][5][7]

In 1922, basketball player Charles H. "Chuck" Taylor walked into Converse complaining of sore feet, and Converse gave him a job as a salesman and ambassador. He promoted the shoes around the U.S., and in 1932 Taylor's signature was added to the All-Star patch on the high-topped sneakers. He continued this work until shortly before his death in 1969.[8] Sales for the All-Star soared until 1929 when the company fell into bankruptcy. In 1939, Converse was sold to the Stone Family, who owned Converse until 1972 when the Eltra Corporation proposed an acquisition.[6]

1941–2001: War, rise, and bankruptcy

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When the U.S. entered World War II in 1941, Converse shifted production to manufacturing rubberized footwear, outerwear, and protective suits for the military. After the war's end, the company resumed production of athletic footwear and chiefly made a high top shoe, in either black or white.[6] In the 1950s and 1960s, Converse promoted an American image with its Converse Basketball Yearbook. Artist Charles Kerins created cover art that celebrated Converse's role in the lives of high school and college athletes.[9] In 1957, Converse came out with a low-cut style of All-Stars. By 1966, the shoe was also available in school colors.[6]

Red pair of Converse Chuck Taylor All Stars
Black Converse sneakers

Converse customized shoes for the New York Renaissance (the "Rens"), the first all-African-American professional basketball team. The shoes were designed to be "non-skid", which gave basketball players better grip.[10] An extra strip of rubber was eventually added to protect the shoes from constant pivoting; this was called the "pivot button".[11] In 1962, center Wilt Chamberlain of the Philadelphia Warriors scored 100 points in a National Basketball Association (NBA) game while wearing a pair of All-Stars, taking a 169–147 victory over the New York Knicks in Hershey, Pennsylvania, on March 2.[12]

By the early 1970s, Converse had diversified to include manufacturing sporting goods and industrial products. Converse was acquired by the Eltra Corporation in 1972, and bought out one of its biggest competitors at the time, PF Flyers, from B.F. Goodrich. However, federal courts ruled the sale a monopoly and the deal was subsequently broken up through anti-trust litigation. Converse only retained the trademark rights to the Jack Purcell line, which it still produces.[13][14] The chevron-and-star insignia—a logo that remains on a large portion of Converse footwear—was created by Jim Labadini, an employee.[15]

Eltra was acquired by Allied Corporation in 1979.[16] Allied moved out of the consumer products business in the 1980s, and in October 1986, Converse was acquired by Interco Incorporated and spun off in 1994.[14]

Converse lost its athletic shoe monopoly from the 1970s onward, as new competitors, including Puma, Adidas, and Nike, grew in popularity. A decade later, as Reebok introduced new designs and technology to the sports market, Converse was no longer the official shoe of the NBA.[17] Although canvas-rubber shoes regained popularity in the 1980s as casual footwear, Converse eventually became too dependent on the "All Stars" basketball brand, whose market collapsed by 1989–1990. By 2000, Converse was slipping repeatedly into receivership as debt piled up yearly.[18]

Converse filed for bankruptcy on January 22, 2001. On March 30, its last manufacturing plants in the U.S. closed down, as production fully moved overseas.[19] In April 2001, Footwear Acquisitions, led by Marsden Cason and Bill Simon, purchased the brand from bankruptcy and added industry partners Jack Boys, Jim Stroesser, Lisa Kempa, and David Maddocks to lead the turnaround.[20][21] During this period, Converse moved its headquarters from North Reading, Massachusetts, to North Andover, Massachusetts. The company was located in the town of North Andover for 13 years.[22]

2002–present: Acquisition by Nike and new headquarters

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In July 2003, Nike paid US$309 million to acquire Converse.[3][23] In January 2013, Converse announced plans for a new headquarters building. It was constructed near North Station in downtown Boston, on the Lovejoy Wharf, as part of a site overhaul and restoration of public waterfront access.[24] The 10-story 214,000-square-foot (19,900 m2) office building includes a permanent music recording studio, 5,000-square-foot (460 m2) gym with separate yoga studio, and a 3,500-square-foot (330 m2) retail store.[25]

In May 2023, Converse hired Jared Carver as the new president and CEO.[26]

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Starting in July 2008, Converse sent around 180 cease-and-desist letters to over 30 companies that they claimed were violating the Chuck Taylor All-Stars trademark and selling so-called look-alike sneakers. In October 2014, Converse filed a lawsuit against 30 companies for allegedly infringing on its generic sneaker style's bumper toe, striped midsole, and toe cap. The brand argued that companies were violating an alleged common-law trademark by importing sneakers with similar elements. Several companies settled with Converse and they were dropped from the list.[27][28]

In November 2015, Charles Bullock, chief administrative judge at the International Trade Commission, preliminarily ruled that several brands Converse filed against were violating Converse's outsole design trademarks, i.e. the pattern on the bottom of the sole of the shoe. The soles of the shoes are designed to allow players to jump or move in all directions. The diamond pattern makes this possible.[11] Judge Bullock further ruled that while Skechers "Twinkle Toes" brands did share similarities to Converse, "Twinkle Toes" were different enough and marketed in a way for it not to be mistaken for Chuck Taylor All-Stars.[29] Judge Bullock also ruled that most of the shoes sold by Highline United under the Ash brand did not infringe and that Converse did not have a valid common law mark for its midsole.

On June 23, 2016, the anniversary of the death of Chuck Taylor, the International Trade Commission ruled that Converse's alleged trade dress for the midsole design of a combined toe cap, toe bumper, and stripe was not entitled to trademark protection under the common law and found invalid Converse's federal trademark registration. The case was appealed to the U.S. Court of Appeals for the Federal Circuit, which ruled that the ITC had used the wrong test and remanded the case. On remand, the ITC ruled that Converse's trade dress was protectable but not infringed.[30]

Products

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Chuck Taylor All-Stars

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Main article: Chuck Taylor All-Stars
Joshua Mueller, Guinness Book of World Records holder for a most significant collection of "Chucks", photographed in 2006

Converse started making an early basketball shoe in 1917 and redesigned it in 1922, when Chuck Taylor asked the company to create a better shoe with more support and flexibility. After Converse added Taylor's signature to the ankle patch they became known as Chuck Taylor All Stars. By the 1960s the company had captured about 70 to 80 percent of the basketball shoe market, but the shoe declined in popularity during the 1970s when basketball players wore competing brands. Chuck Taylor All-Stars enjoyed a comeback in popularity in the 1980s as retro-style casual footwear.[31][8]

Chuck Taylor All-Stars have made an appearance in over 650 films, such as Back to the Future, I, Robot, Grease and Stand by Me.[32] David Tennant (playing the Tenth Doctor) wore red and cream versions of Hi-top Converse on science-fiction show Doctor Who.[33]

The Weapon

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The Weapon, manufactured in many different color schemes

In 1986, Converse released "The Weapon" basketball shoe. Manufactured in two color schemes to match the kit colors of basketball teams, it has been available in both high-top and low-cut varieties. It had leather construction throughout, including the inside heel which was also heavily padded for comfort. The first endorsers of "The Weapon" were Larry Bird and Magic Johnson, who were prominently featured in a Converse commercial set in Bird's hometown of French Lick, Indiana in 1985.[34] They were also worn by Axl Rose in the Guns N' Roses music video "Estranged".

Converse re-released "The Weapon" classic (which Kobe Bryant wore at least three times in 2002 and Andre Miller wore in 2002 from mid-August to early September) several times from 1999 to 2003 and after, "The Loaded Weapon" in 2003, "The Weapon 86" in 2008 (and the Poorman version in 2009, and the John Varvatos version in 2012), "The Weapon EVO" in 2009, and its successor "The Star Player EVO" (sometimes reduced to "The Star Plyr EVO" or "The Star Ply EVO") in 2010.[citation needed]

Before "The Weapon", Converse launched the "One Star" in 1974, the "Pro Leather" in 1976 and the "Starion" in 1984, all known for basketball and basketball performance.[35]

Chuck Taylor II

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A redesigned model of the Chuck Taylor All-Star, the "Chuck Taylor II", was released in July 28, 2015. Incorporating Nike technology, it retains most of the original's outward appearance while employing newer materials for the insole.[36]

Converse fashion in Paris

Sponsorships

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In 2019, Converse returned to performance basketball with the All-Star Pro BB. Kelly Oubre Jr. was the first player to try out the new product,[37] which combined the traditional Converse silhouette with the contemporary Nike technology. Thereafter Converse signed Draymond Green in March 2020,[38] Natasha Cloud (the first WNBA player) in June,[39] Shai Gilgeous-Alexander in July,[40] and, thereafter, Rudy Gay, P. J. Tucker, DeAndre' Bembry, De'Anthony Melton, Nickeil Alexander-Walker, Immanuel Quickley, Deividas Sirvydis, Jordan Clarkson, Josh Richardson, David Duke Jr., Brandon Williams. Some of the aforementioned players also wear other brands.[41]

Gilgeous-Alexander, point guard for the Oklahoma City Thunder, has become the new face of the brand. The shoe, "Chase the Drip" was released on September 13, 2022.[42]

Basketball

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Former college teams

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Former basketball teams

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Football

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Soccer club teams

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Former Soccer teams

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Skateboarding

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In the 1980s, Converse sponsored several influential skaters including Jason Jessee, Rodney Mullen, and Mark Rogowski.[44] Under the "Cons" name, Converse launched its skateboarding program in 2009 with a team of "ambassadors": Kenny Anderson, Anthony Pappalardo, Nick Trapasso, Sammy Baca, Ethan Fowler, Raymond Molinar, and Rune Glifberg.[45] In 2012, the company added Jason Jessee and Mike Anderson to its ambassadors team.[46]

In August 2012, Converse sponsored a skate event at Huntington Beach, California, U.S. Trapasso, Tom Remillard,[47] Aaron Homoki, Greyson Fletcher, Ben Raemers, Ben Hatchell, Robbie Russo, and Ben Raybourn participated in the competition that was held. Raybourn eventually won the US$20,000 grand prize, and Homoki won the US$3,000 Best Trick contest.[48]

As of July 2014, the Cons skateboard team consisted of original members Anderson, Trapasso, Baca, and Glifberg, while Jessee, Anderson, Julian Davidson, Remillard, Zered Basset, Ben Raemers, Jake Johnson, Eli Reed, Louie Lopez, Sage Elsesser, and Sean Pablo were subsequently added.[46] Bassett filmed a new advertisement that was broadcast online in July 2014, in which he skateboarded through New York City in a newly launched skate shoe version of the Converse Weapon model.[49]

In February 2024, Converse and Phaidon launched a book titled Skateboard, about the history of skateboarding from the 1950s to today.[50][51] The book was put together by Jonathan Olivares, a designer and skater.[50]

Philanthropy

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A special collection called "1Hund (RED)", whereby fifteen percent of the profits are used to support HIV/AIDS prevention, was released by the brand. One hundred artists from around the world were chosen to create designs for the collection as part of the (RED) campaign. Professional skateboarder Anthony Pappalardo released a (RED) edition of his high-selling signature skate shoe model in February 2010.[52][53] Pappalardo explains:

I got into woodworking about two years ago, through a buddy of mine who I used to skate with every day—he turned into a woodworker. So he gave me this scrap box of wood ... It just definitely started consuming me as skating did. I wanted to read about it, you know? Go on the internet and watch videos about it, and just learn anything and everything I could about woodworking. The first thing I ever made was a bench, and that's, kinda, what I've been making ever since. The cool thing about working with Product (RED) is just by doing the two things that I love, I'm also able to help people.[54]

In 2012, Converse was listed as a partner in the (RED) campaign, together with other brands such as Nike, Inc., Girl, and Bugaboo. The campaign's mission is to prevent the transmission of the HIV virus from mother to child by 2015 (the campaign's byline is "Fighting For An AIDS Free Generation").[55]

In the winter of 2018, Converse teamed up with several influential figures in the Los Angeles area to create a collection paying to those who help move the culture forward in the city. Among those selected by the Boston-based footwear brand for this L.A.-themed collection are Vince Staples, Dr. Woo, Rocket, BornXRaised, and Clot.[56]

References

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  1. ^ "Converse turns 100". Chucksconnection.com. May 29, 2008. Archived from the original on August 13, 2011. Retrieved August 31, 2011.
  2. ^ a b c "Nike 2023 Form 10K" (PDF). Nike, Inc. Retrieved August 19, 2023.
  3. ^ a b Wayne, Leslie (July 10, 2003). "Nike Purchasing Converse, A Legend on the Blacktop". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved November 27, 2022.
  4. ^ Ailworth, Erin (March 2, 2008). "Pros and Cons". Boston.com. Retrieved April 26, 2022.
  5. ^ a b Bertho, Michelle; Crawford, Beverly; Fogarty, Edward A. (September 30, 2008). The Impact of Globalization on the United States [3 volumes]. ABC-CLIO. ISBN 9780313083198.
  6. ^ a b c d "How Converse Became Fashion's Favorite Sneaker". InStyle. Retrieved April 25, 2023.
  7. ^ Foreman, Katya. "Converse shoes: In the all star game". BBC. Retrieved August 19, 2022.
  8. ^ a b Dalesio, Emery P. (March 28, 2001). "Converse closes out Chuck Taylor plant". Kentucky New Era. Hopkinsville. Associated Press. p. A7. Retrieved August 7, 2018.
  9. ^ "Charles Kerins - Biography". AskART. Archived from the original on October 30, 2015. Retrieved May 16, 2023.
  10. ^ "The History of Converse's Chuck Taylor & Basketball". Shoe Palace. August 27, 2022. Retrieved March 30, 2023.
  11. ^ a b "A Brief History Of The Converse Chuck Taylor All Star Sneaker". Mr. Porter.
  12. ^ "Wilt Breaks NBA Record; Gets 100 Against Knicks". Reading Eagle. Pennsylvania. Associated Press. March 3, 1962. p. 7.
  13. ^ "Converse and Eltra Sued By U.S. on Goodrich Deal". The New York Times. July 4, 1972. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved November 12, 2022.
  14. ^ a b Grant, Tina (February 14, 2000). International Directory of Company Histories. Vol. 31. Detroit, Michigan: St. James Press. ISBN 978-1-55862-390-3. OL 8607051M – via Funding Universe.
  15. ^ "The 25 Best Logos in Sneaker History". Complex. December 6, 2012. Retrieved February 17, 2018. Jim Labadini helped cook up the Converse 2.0 logo during a time when sneaker brands where getting extremely competitive. The Converse Chevron logo marked the move forward into what would become an exciting time for the brand, thanks to some guys with nicknames like Dr. J, Magic, and Legend.
  16. ^ "Allied Sells Converse Unit". The New York Times. March 5, 1982. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved November 12, 2022.
  17. ^ "Converse Is Getting Back Into the NBA". GQ. November 19, 2018. Retrieved April 26, 2022.
  18. ^ Rovell, Darren (October 18, 2000). "Converse Nears Corporate Extinction". ESPN. Retrieved February 17, 2018. Industry sources have confirmed that Converse has racked up $180 million in debt, and the announcement of the company's death is merely a formality.
  19. ^ "Converse closes Chuck Taylor plant". Billings Gazette. Associated Press. March 30, 2001. Retrieved March 29, 2023. The Lumberton plant that has churned out 8 million to 10 million pairs of Chuck Taylors a year has sent its 475 employees home, and the factory officially closes Saturday. Plants in Mission, Texas, and Reynosa, Mexico, are also being closed by the 93-year-old company.
  20. ^ Pope, Justin (July 16, 2001). "Getting Sneaker Maker Converse Back on Its Feet". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved February 17, 2018. Investors Marsden Cason and William Simon, through their company Footwear Acquisition, saw an opportunity in the Converse name.
  21. ^ Gatlin, Greg (June 12, 2001). "The New All-Stars: Converse Names New CEO & Management Team". Boston Herald. Retrieved January 25, 2024 – via Sports Business Journal.
  22. ^ Marchetti, Garrin (April 10, 2015). "Converse hangs it up in North Andover". Eagle Tribune. Retrieved January 31, 2021.
  23. ^ Tkacik, Maureen (July 9, 2003). "Nike to Buy Converse For About $305 Million". The Wall Street Journal. Retrieved February 28, 2024.
  24. ^ "Converse Announces New Global Headquarters in the City of Boston" (Press release). January 8, 2013. Retrieved May 10, 2018.
  25. ^ "Converse Officially Opens World Headquarters in Boston and Debuts New Flagship Store". Converse Media. Archived from the original on June 11, 2016. Retrieved February 15, 2016.
  26. ^ Verry, Peter (May 30, 2023). "Nike Exec Moves Continue: Converse Taps Jared Carver as President and CEO". Footwear News. Retrieved May 31, 2023.
  27. ^ Schiavenza, Matt, "Why Converse is Fighting to Keep All Stars Cool," The Atlantic, October 15, 2014.
  28. ^ Butler-Young, Sheena, "Iconix and Fila Settle in Converse Lawsuit Saga," Footwear News, April 9, 2015.
  29. ^ Sutherlin, Margaret (November 19, 2015). "Converse Trademark Lawsuit: Skechers Declares Victory, Mixed Ruling Expected Overall". Footwear News. Retrieved February 11, 2016.
  30. ^ "In Long-Running Dispute, ITC Rules Chuck Taylor Sneakers Protectable But Not Infringed". JD Supra. Retrieved July 7, 2021.
  31. ^ "OG of OGs: History of Converse Chuck Taylors". Cult Edge. February 4, 2018.
  32. ^ "All Star Films". www.chucksconnection.com. Retrieved June 14, 2018.
  33. ^ McAlpine, Fraser (July 19, 2011). "How to Dress Like the Tenth Doctor". BBC America. Archived from the original on February 5, 2012. Retrieved November 20, 2022.
  34. ^ "Converse Weapon: A Brief History of the Iconic Basketball Shoe". Highsnobiety. September 3, 2021. Retrieved June 28, 2022.
  35. ^ "Converse – History + Official Release Dates 2020". Sneaker News. Retrieved April 1, 2023.
  36. ^ Luna, Taryn (July 21, 2015). "Converse's new Chuck Taylors get a comfort boost". The Boston Globe. Retrieved June 16, 2023.
  37. ^ Ben Felderstein (October 24, 2019). "Kelly Oubre on Signing to Converse Basketball: "It Felt Like Home"". complex. Retrieved November 22, 2021.
  38. ^ Ben Pickman (March 3, 2020). "Report: Draymond Green Signing Shoe Deal With Converse". Sports Illustrated. Retrieved May 22, 2020.
  39. ^ Kareen Copeland (June 8, 2020). "Mystics' Natasha Cloud gets shoe deal from Converse, for her activism as much as her play". The Washington Post. Retrieved November 16, 2020.
  40. ^ Nick DePaula (July 9, 2020). "Shai Gilgeous-Alexander signs with Converse, joining Draymond Green and Kelly Oubre Jr". ESPN. Retrieved July 10, 2020.
  41. ^ "Kix Stats". Converse. Retrieved October 27, 2021.
  42. ^ "Oklahoma City Thunder Guard Collaborates with Converse on New Shoes". Yardbarker. September 14, 2022. Retrieved May 2, 2023.
  43. ^ Rovell, Darren (April 5, 2011). "Dwyane Wade Gets His First Jordan Signature Shoe". CNBC. Retrieved October 19, 2018.
  44. ^ Warnett, Gary (December 9, 2015). "CAN IT SKATE?: Skateboarding's History of Cannibalizing the Footwear Market". 032c. Retrieved June 21, 2023.
  45. ^ asayer (May 13, 2009). "Cons Comes Back: A Look at Converse Skateboarding". Push.ca. Bell Canada. Archived from the original on February 11, 2010. Retrieved September 9, 2012.
  46. ^ a b "Ambassadors". Converse.com. Converse Inc. 2012. Retrieved September 9, 2012.
  47. ^ RIDE Channel; Rob Brink; Erica Yary (August 3, 2012). "Nick Trapasso, Tom Remillard & Robbie Russo at Coastal Carnage! Week ..." (Video upload). YouTube. Google, Inc. Archived from the original on December 11, 2021. Retrieved January 20, 2013.
  48. ^ Lance Dawes; Cory Williams (August 6, 2012). "RAYBOURN CRUISES THROUGH CARNAGE". ESPN Action Sports. ESPN Internet Ventures. Archived from the original on July 9, 2015. Retrieved January 20, 2013.
  49. ^ Brian Farmer (July 20, 2014). "Converse Launches the CONS Weapon Skate Shoe with Short Film featuring Zered Bassett". High Snobiety. Titel Media. Retrieved July 26, 2014.
  50. ^ a b Brenner, Julia. "Phaidon X Converse Launch New Book 'Skateboard'—Counterculture Design From The 1950s To Today". Forbes. Retrieved February 28, 2024.
  51. ^ Mast, Haley (February 27, 2024). "Converse X Phaidon Launch New History of Skateboarding Book". TransWorld SKATEboarding Magazine. Retrieved February 28, 2024.
  52. ^ "Anthony Pappalardo". 48 Blocks. 2012. Retrieved January 20, 2013.
  53. ^ Blair Alley (December 2, 2009). "ANTHONY PAPPALARDO'S PROJECT RED CONS PRO MODEL". Transworld Skateboarding. Bonnier Corporation. Retrieved January 20, 2013.
  54. ^ Aaron Meza; crailtap (November 30, 2009). "Anthony Pappalardo and (RED)" (Video upload). YouTube. Archived from the original on December 11, 2021. Retrieved January 20, 2013.
  55. ^ "(RED)". (RED) Partners. (RED), a division of The ONE Campaign. 2012. Archived from the original on May 28, 2012. Retrieved October 13, 2012.
  56. ^ Krastz, Roger (January 22, 2018). "Vince Staples Teases New Collaboration With Converse". XXL Mag. Retrieved November 8, 2022.
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