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Aurora James

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Aurora James
Born1984 (age 39–40)
Guelph, Ontario, Canada
Known forFashion design
Notable work15 Percent Pledge
Awards2020 The Bloomberg 50
2021 Time 100
Websitebrothervellies.com

Aurora James is a Canadian creative director, activist, and fashion designer. In 2013, she founded the fashion label Brother Vellies, with the goal of promoting traditional African design practices and techniques. In 2020, James founded the 15 Percent Pledge as a non-profit organization to support Black-owned businesses. Her memoir Wildflower was released in 2023.

Early life

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James was born to a Ghanaian father and a Canadian mother in Guelph, Ontario, Canada.[1][2] Her childhood was split between Canada and Jamaica.[1][3] In 2010, James relocated to Los Angeles and later to New York City.

Career and brand

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After traveling across Africa[4] in 2011, James spent the next few years experimenting with design, testing designs at local markets in New York and working with various artisan groups.[1] She launched Brother Vellies in January 2013,[4] started with $3,500 in savings,[3] with a goal of promoting the work of African artisans.[2] The first formal Brother Vellies collection was produced for the spring 2014 season and was created entirely with shoemakers in South Africa. James later expanded to working in other countries within Africa and beyond, including Mexico and Honduras, to continue producing desert boots, shoes, slippers, and sandals.[5][2]

In 2015, James began producing handbags for Brother Vellies, the same year she won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize.

In 2020, James was featured on the cover of the September issue of Vogue magazine, in a portrait by Jordan Casteel.[6][7]

In 2021 after James' dress with a message "Tax the Rich” across the back in big red lettering was worn by Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez at the 2021 Met Gala[8][9][10][2] several news outlets reported on the tax debt of James' company, totaling six figures, along with multiple warrants issued across various states. These reports ignited controversy and accusations of hypocrisy regarding James' political stance. [11]

In 2022, she was unanimously elected as a Vice Chair of the CFDA.[12]

In 2023, James was presented the Honorary Clio Award.[13][14][15]

Brother Vellies has been worn by activists, celebrities, artists and musicians, including Beyoncé,[4] Solange Knowles,[16] Nicki Minaj,[17] and Elaine Welteroth.[18]

The 15 Percent Pledge

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Main article: 15 Percent Pledge

In 2020, in the wake of the murder of George Floyd and the wave of Black Lives Matter activism that followed, James launched an initiative called the 15 Percent Pledge,[19][20] with an Instagram post on May 29 that Vogue writes "immediately went viral and resulted in an outpouring of interest."[1] The 15 Percent Pledge Foundation was then created as a non-profit organization to urge major retailers to commit 15 percent of their shelf-space to Black-owned businesses.[3][21] The foundation offers large corporations accountability and strategy suggestions[22] as well as consulting services.[21] The goal of the foundation is to advocate on behalf of Black-owned businesses and to build generational wealth in Black communities;[23] according to its website, the initiative "was born from seeing multiple acts of social injustice and police brutality in the United States, with a lack of corporate accountability for the systemic issues at play."[24]

Time magazine writes that James wanted to "find a way that companies could make a tangible change", and "from there, the 15 Percent Pledge was born." Cam Wolf writes in GQ magazine that "James is careful to note that the 15 Percent Pledge is not the only solution", and that James said, "This is a really tough time for everyone, and people shopping is by no means going to ease the pain of the lives that we have lost ... There are also a lot of other things that we need people to be doing, like donating to bail funds."[25]

Memoir

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In May 2023, James' memoir Wildflower was released.[26] According to a review in Kirkus Reviews, "Throughout the text, James is vulnerable and frank, cultivating a narrative voice that is both intimate and captivating; on the line level, her language is impressively lyrical."[26] The review also called Wildflower, "A well-written, profoundly empathetic memoir from an entrepreneur with a very bright future."[27]

Bianca Betancourt writes in Harper's Bazaar, "James doesn't hold back. She movingly intertwines memories of her youth with deeply honest accounts of the life she leads today as a designer and entrepreneur."[28]

Cat Woods writes in Observer, "While reading Wildflower, it can sometimes be hard to see how James conjured up the resolve and determination to carry on in an industry notoriously defined by privilege, exploitation and savage competition."[29] In Fashionista, Andrea Bossi writes, "Sure, a fashion lover can appreciate how James takes the reader through learning about the footwear trade, but the book speaks to a broader audience. Specifically, it appeals to anyone who has ever questioned their path and purpose, especially women and women of color."[30]

Awards and honors

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References

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  1. ^ a b c d Okwudo, Janelle (August 26, 2020). "Aurora James on Fashion, Feminism, and the Fifteen Percent Pledge". VOGUE. Retrieved 16 December 2020.
  2. ^ a b c d Segran, Elizabeth (September 14, 2021). "Meet the visionary designer behind AOC's Tax the Rich dress". Fast Company. Retrieved 14 September 2021.
  3. ^ a b c Holman, Jordyn (December 7, 2020). "Aurora James, the Founder Seeking Shelf Space". Bloomberg. Retrieved 16 December 2020.
  4. ^ a b c Zarrella, Katharine K. (June 12, 2020). "Meet Aurora James, a Designer Advocating for Black-Owned Businesses". Wall Street Journal. ISSN 0099-9660. Retrieved August 17, 2018.
  5. ^ Milch, Nora (March 25, 2016). "Brother Vellies' Aurora James Just Wants Women to be Comfortable in their Shoes". W. Retrieved 16 December 2020.
  6. ^ Laing, Sarah (August 25, 2020). "Why Aurora James being on Vogue's September cover is so significant". The Toronto Star. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
  7. ^ Kazanjian, Dodie (August 25, 2020). "The Making of Vogue's September 2020 Covers". Vogue. Retrieved 25 December 2020.
  8. ^ Testa, Jessica (September 22, 2021). "A.O.C.'s Met Gala Designer Explains Her 'Tax the Rich' Dress". The New York Times. Retrieved 12 February 2022.
  9. ^ Abel, Katie (September 14, 2021). "Everyone's Talking About AOC's 'Tax the Rich' Dress, But Aurora James' Designs Have Been Making Powerful Statements for Years". Footwear News. Yahoo News. Retrieved 14 September 2021.
  10. ^ "The Best Met Gala 2021 Red Carpet Photos". The New York Times. September 13, 2021. Retrieved 14 September 2021. Representative Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez of New York sent a message with her gown by Aurora James. The back of her dress was emblazoned with the words "Tax the Rich" in red. Her bag had the same phrase.
  11. ^ Levine, Jon; Boniello, Kathianne (18 September 2021). "AOC's 'Tax the Rich' dress designer Aurora James owes debt in multiple states". New York Post. Retrieved 14 September 2024.
  12. ^ a b "CFDA". cfda.com. Retrieved 2024-02-03.
  13. ^ "Creativity in Conversation: A Q&A with 2023 Honorary Clio Award Recipient Aurora James". Clios. 2023-06-12. Retrieved 2024-02-14.
  14. ^ "Honorary Award Recipient". Clios. 2023-06-12. Retrieved 2024-02-14.
  15. ^ Creativity in Conversation: A Q&A with 2023 Honorary Clio Award Recipient Aurora James, retrieved 2024-02-14
  16. ^ Salam, Maya; Bromwich, Jonah Engel; Safronova, Valeriya; Shutler, Natalie (2018-06-28). "Met Gala 2018: See Photos From the Red Carpet". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2020-08-17.
  17. ^ Ho, Jason (November 19, 2020). "How Canadian designer Aurora James is persuading retailers to support Black-owned businesses". CBC News. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
  18. ^ Laura, Regensdorf (June 12, 2020). "Aurora James on This Week's Big Win for the 15 Percent Pledge and Black-Owned Brands". Vanity Fair. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
  19. ^ Kent, Sarah; Lieber, Chavie (May 31, 2020). "Designer Aurora James Calls on Retailers to Commit to Black-Owned Businesses". Business of Fashion. Retrieved 16 December 2020.
  20. ^ Robinson, Roxanne (June 16, 2020). "Aurora James, The Designer Behind The #15PercentPledge, On Supporting Black-Owned Businesses Long Term". Forbes. Retrieved 16 December 2020.
  21. ^ a b Rougeau, Naomi (September 15, 2020). "How Aurora James Took the 15 Percent Pledge From an Instagram Post to a 501(c)(3)". Elle. Retrieved 16 December 2020.
  22. ^ "Interested in taking the Pledge?". Fifteen Percent Pledge. Retrieved 16 December 2020.
  23. ^ Duffy, Clare (June 7, 2020). "15% Pledge calls on Target, Whole Foods and other retailers to dedicate shelf space to black-owned businesses". CNN Business. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
  24. ^ "FAQ for businesses". Fifteen Percent Pledge. Retrieved 16 December 2020.
  25. ^ Wolf, Cam. "This Initiative Could Direct Billions of Dollars to Black-Owned Businesses". GQ. Retrieved 2021-03-22.
  26. ^ a b "WILDFLOWER". Kirkus Reviews. March 1, 2023. Retrieved 28 August 2023.
  27. ^ WILDFLOWER | Kirkus Reviews.
  28. ^ Betancourt, Bianca (9 May 2023). "Aurora James Has Never Claimed to Be Perfect". Harper's Bazaar. Retrieved 28 August 2023.
  29. ^ Woods, Cat (8 May 2023). "Aurora James Is Breaking the Fairytale Founder Memoir Mold". Observer. Retrieved 28 August 2023.
  30. ^ Bossi, Andrea (22 May 2023). "There's Something for Everyone to Learn in Aurora James' Memoir". Fashionista. Retrieved 28 August 2023.
  31. ^ Codinha, Alessandra. "Breaking News! Brother Vellies, Gypsy Sport, and Jonathan Simkhai to Share 2015 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Win". Vogue. Retrieved 2020-08-17.
  32. ^ a b "Aurora James Profile". CFDA. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
  33. ^ "The 2016 CFDA Fashion Awards Nominees and Honorees". CFDA. March 17, 2016. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
  34. ^ "The 2018 CFDA Fashion Awards Nominees & Honorees Are In!". CFDA. March 15, 2018. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
  35. ^ Greene, Greg (September 21, 2019). "Honoring the Black Women Who Stand Up for Reproductive Health Care". Planned Parenthood Blog. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
  36. ^ "2019 International Canadian Designer Award Recipient – Aurora James". www.cafawards.ca. Archived from the original on 2020-08-05. Retrieved 2020-08-17.
  37. ^ "40 Under 40 - Aurora James". Crain's New York Business. 2019-03-24. Retrieved 2020-08-17.
  38. ^ "The Fashion Award 2020 Winners Share Their Hopes for the Future of the Fashion Industry". Vogue. December 3, 2020. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
  39. ^ Marriott, Hannah (December 3, 2020). "British Fashion Awards: move online heralds different set of priorities". The Guardian. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
  40. ^ "Aurora James Brings the Fifteen Percent Pledge to Store Shelves". Bloomberg BusinessWeek. December 4, 2020. Retrieved 16 December 2020.
  41. ^ "The Bloomberg 50". Bloomberg BusinessWeek. December 7, 2020. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
  42. ^ Butler-Young, Sheena (December 7, 2020). "FNAA Person of the Year Aurora James Is Fashion's Vitamin Supplement — Why It Needs Her Bold, Brilliant Energy Daily". Footwear News. Retrieved 14 September 2021.
  43. ^ Dewberry, Sarah (September 16, 2021). "TIME unveils list of 100 most influential people of 2021". KSBY. Retrieved November 11, 2021.
  44. ^ "Christopher John Rogers And Emily Bode-Aujla Take Top Honora At The CFDA Awards – See All The Winners". British Vogue. 2021-11-11. Retrieved 2024-02-23.
  45. ^ "All of the CFDA Fashion Award Winners". Harper's BAZAAR. 2021-11-11. Retrieved 2024-02-23.
  46. ^ Ogunnaike, Lola (October 25, 2022). "With the Fifteen Percent Pledge, Aurora James Is Offering Corporate America a Deal". Glamour. Retrieved August 2, 2023.
  47. ^ "Inside the 10th Annual Canadian Arts & Fashion Awards". Vogue. 2023-10-16. Retrieved 2024-02-03.
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