Wikipedia:Reference desk/Archives/Miscellaneous/2012 August 14
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August 14
[edit]Fan speed controls
[edit]Sometimes you look closely at something familiar, and a small detail gets you to wondering. I have three electric fans, each a different model, size, design and manufacturer. On all of them, the speed controller goes OFF • HIGH • MEDIUM • LOW. Why this order? It seems more logical that the controller would gradually step up the speed. → Michael J Ⓣ Ⓒ Ⓜ 01:44, 14 August 2012 (UTC)
- I remember reading or being told that it's better for the motor to switch from off to high, but I don't know enough details to back that up. Here are some things I've found online:
- Straight Dope Message Board - Why are fan controls setup that way? - post 9
- Later in the thread, the same poster links to USA Today - Wonderquest - Struggling Fans
- --Bavi H (talk) 02:05, 14 August 2012 (UTC)
- Because most people will use the high setting in normal occasions, so it saves time and wristwear? Bavi's answer seems quite likely. μηδείς (talk) 02:06, 14 August 2012 (UTC)
- For those of us who immediately switch from off over to low, it sounds like we should instead set it on high first, then knock it to medium and low? ←Baseball Bugs What's up, Doc? carrots→ 03:01, 14 August 2012 (UTC)
- I have a certain room in the house that is hot due to sun exposure, and almost always run a fan when I am in it. I always turn the fan to high to get it up to speed, rather than hear it labor at low speed, but usually turn it down to low if I run it more than a minute or so. μηδείς (talk) 03:29, 14 August 2012 (UTC)
- For those of us who immediately switch from off over to low, it sounds like we should instead set it on high first, then knock it to medium and low? ←Baseball Bugs What's up, Doc? carrots→ 03:01, 14 August 2012 (UTC)
- Because most people will use the high setting in normal occasions, so it saves time and wristwear? Bavi's answer seems quite likely. μηδείς (talk) 02:06, 14 August 2012 (UTC)
- I don't know if this is related, but I was told by a gas fitter to put my gas fire on the High setting immediately after switching it on, so that the flue would warm up: apparently it works better when warmer. I wonder if the "works better if warmed up" principle applies to this question too? --TammyMoet (talk) 08:45, 14 August 2012 (UTC)
- That makes sense. This section has been a good learning experience. :) ←Baseball Bugs What's up, Doc? carrots→ 13:26, 14 August 2012 (UTC)
- But, whatever you do, don't leave it on overnight in a closed room! AndrewWTaylor (talk) 20:52, 14 August 2012 (UTC)
- Yeh, especially if it's blowing dry ice around. ←Baseball Bugs What's up, Doc? carrots→ 23:44, 14 August 2012 (UTC)
- But, whatever you do, don't leave it on overnight in a closed room! AndrewWTaylor (talk) 20:52, 14 August 2012 (UTC)
- That makes sense. This section has been a good learning experience. :) ←Baseball Bugs What's up, Doc? carrots→ 13:26, 14 August 2012 (UTC)
- I think that the first answer at Straight Dope is right - give it the power to get started first. Bubba73 You talkin' to me? 23:42, 14 August 2012 (UTC)
- I wonder, does this apply to pretty much anything with a low-med-hi control? Like for example, a ceiling fan, or the A/C and heater fan in the car? ←Baseball Bugs What's up, Doc? carrots→ 02:23, 15 August 2012 (UTC)
- I think the setup going from off to high is pure marketing: impress the consumer. Bus stop (talk) 02:33, 15 August 2012 (UTC)
- The exhaust fan in our oven goes to high first too. Our ceiling fans go to the current setting (same thing in the car). It might depend on how much torque is required for that fan compared to the size of the motor. Bubba73 You talkin' to me? 13:47, 17 August 2012 (UTC)
- From memory, all fans I've ever used in both Malaysia and New Zealand actually went from off to low speeds to high speeds or had a continous dial (so you couldn't say which direction it went) or had the speed seperate from the off or had buttons for speed rather then a dial (although even then the other would normally be off to low speed to high speed). Nil Einne (talk) 03:11, 15 August 2012 (UTC)
Drama - Villa for Sale
[edit]While reading the drama - 'Villa for Sale' written by Sacha Guitry, I didn't got the meaning of two sentences. Those sentences are -
- Jeanne: What on earth will the lady think of us?
- Jeanne: What on earth are you driving at?
In both sentences, the main confusing term is "What on earth". I want to know the meaning of both sentences and confusing term. Sunny Singh (DAV) (talk) 14:08, 14 August 2012 (UTC)
- "On earth" is an expletive: see wikt:on earth. "What on earth" just means "what", but with added emphasis. Semantically, it is saying "what (including extreme possibilities that might be found in extreme places)?"
- If "what are you driving at" puzzles you, that phrase driving at could be replaced with getting at, or (less commonly) digging at. The question means: what fact is the speaker trying to establish? Less literally, it means "what do you mean?" Card Zero (talk) 14:27, 14 August 2012 (UTC)
- "What on earth...?" is a generic and much politer thing to say than "What in hell...?" or similar such stuff. It also has extensions, such as, "What on God's green earth...?" etc. — Preceding unsigned comment added by Baseball Bugs (talk •contribs) 23:43, 14 August 2012 (UTC)
- It's also the same as saying "What the f**k", but obviously much more polite than that... gazhiley 09:44, 15 August 2012 (UTC)
- Interesting how people say "Shut the fuck up" and "Shut the hell up", but not "Shut the earth up". -- ♬ Jack of Oz ♬ [your turn] 11:21, 15 August 2012 (UTC)
- I'm not sure why "fuck" in that phrase takes the definite article, as if there was only one fuck. (It might be a partially-minced oath, to avoid mention of the devil?) It's not usual for "hell", for that matter, to take the definite article (which would produce go to the hell!), although "the" is usually put in front of "earth". Yet there's no "what the earth?" phrase. WTE? Card Zero (talk) 17:21, 15 August 2012 (UTC)
- Cursing is an extension of the threat gesture. It is more basic than language, a relict of the reptilian brain. Most stroke patients retain the ability to curse, as did my grandmother, who suffered Broca's aphasia. See Tourette's syndrome and read Oliver Sacks as well as Steven Pinker. μηδείς (talk) 21:40, 15 August 2012 (UTC)
- I've read lots of Oliver Sacks, and studiously avoided Steven Pinker. I've probably mentioned before now a documentary I saw once in which the surface of a patient's brain was stimulated in such a way as to produce either involuntary laughter or involuntary swear words, as if the two things were nearly the same. (This seems off-topic, although the topic was already off-topic, so I'll just STFU.) Card Zero (talk) 09:28, 16 August 2012 (UTC)
I don't always agree with him and can see why people might find Pinker annoying, but he is always lucid. There is a quite excellent and highly entertaining talk by Pinker on the -fucking- infix and other things hosted by Google here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBpetDxIEMU. μηδείς (talk) 17:25, 17 August 2012 (UTC)
UK to US electricity conversion
[edit]I'm in the US where we have 120 volt A/C. I want to get a lamp made in the UK that is designed for their 220-250 volts. There are simple adapters so I can plug the UK plug into a US socket, but won't the lamp be about half as bright as I do that? If so, a voltage converter will make it work correctly, right? Bubba73 You talkin' to me? 23:40, 14 August 2012 (UTC)
- In general, yes, you would need a device which has a transformer in it to convert from 120v to 240v AC for the lamp to work as designed. However if the lamp is a simple one that uses incandescent bulbs and has no other electronics, I wonder if it might be possible to replace or adapt the light-bulb socket to take a US-bulb (light-bulbs in th UK typically use a bayonet-style fitting and will only produce the intended light-level at 240v). Dave w74 (talk) 06:48, 15 August 2012 (UTC)
- It depends on the type of lamp. For a constant resistance, you would expect the lamp to be about a quarter as bright (because it would draw only half the current, and light output is (very roughly) proportional to power (watts = volts x amps)). In reality, the resistance of an incandescent lamp increases with temperature, so the power will be slightly more than a quarter. The lamp will be almost useless at 120 v because it will glow only dimly, and will give out more heat than light. Many US households do have 240v available, but not on lighting circuits. Employ an electrician to provide you with a 240v lighting outlet. A "voltage converter" might solve your problem if it is designed to handle the power of the lamp (transformers are the traditional method, but Switched-mode power supply voltage converters might also work. If your lamp if of the fluorescent type, it may already contain switched-mode circuitry, and unpredictable effects often result when connecting two such circuits. For safety and economic reasons, I would advise you not to try this -- I've blown switch-mode circuitry in the past. Dbfirs 07:03, 15 August 2012 (UTC)
- This is for a lava lamp so the amount of heat the bulb gives off is crucial (the amount o light is important too.) Bubba73 You talkin' to me? 16:21, 15 August 2012 (UTC)
- In that case, a simple 1:2 transformer (rated 100w or whatever your lava lamp is rated) or a switched-mode converter with appropriate rating should be OK. How easy is it in the USA to access the 240v supply (center-earthed)? Is it legal there to wire this to a British-style power outlet (13a socket)? (UK appliances are designed for 240v which is the actual supply voltage in most areas.) I assume that your lava lamp will be "double-insulated" (look for a square inside a square symbol) so that you needn't worry about earthing. Dbfirs 07:42, 16 August 2012 (UTC)
- We have 240 volt A/C into houses in the US, but only big appliances use it. The stove, the oven, and probably the air conditioner, but these are all hard-wired (in our house, at least). The clothes dryer also uses 240V and it has a big three- or four-pronged plug. So it is not easy to access the 240V - the only jack for it is in the laundry room. Bubba73 You talkin' to me? 15:53, 16 August 2012 (UTC)
- Yes, I can see that it would not be worthwhile getting British-style sockets installed unless you wanted to use lots of British appliances (and it might be illegal anyway -- regulations in the UK have become much stricter over recent years -- do you still have the freedom to install your own wiring in your own house?) Dbfirs 21:22, 16 August 2012 (UTC)
- Yes, we do. Except that when a new house is being built or something else that requires a building permit (say extensive remodeling), a licensed electrician is required then (may depend on the locality). Bubba73 You talkin' to me? 13:49, 17 August 2012 (UTC)