Wikipedia:Reference desk/Archives/Computing/2015 April 4
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April 4
[edit]Our article on Camellia claims that it is patented. What's the patent number for it? I'm interesting in all the legalese behind the cipher. WinterWall (talk) 14:21, 4 April 2015 (UTC)
- The US patent number is 8,995,660, and the patent is available from the USPTO website here. Tevildo (talk) 14:36, 4 April 2015 (UTC)
on-line dictionary
[edit]is en.wiktionary with 1558 languages the on-line dictionary with more languages? If it isn't, what is?--95.235.177.53 (talk) 15:42, 4 April 2015 (UTC)
- I fail to see where you got this information. Most words in the wiktionary have not more than entries in 10 different languages. --Senteni (talk) 05:22, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- I refer to wiktionary:Wiktionary:Statistics#Selected language breakdowns.--79.56.177.210 (talk) 16:16, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- That's what I mean. Most languages have less than 10 entries there. Is that a dictionary already? It's surely a work in progress, and you have to start small. But it's a big claim to say that they have 1,558 languages.--Senteni (talk) 16:46, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- It's true that Wiktionary has at least one word from each of 1558 languages, with the English translation of each one, but that doesn't make it a comprehensive dictionary, of course. Its coverage of English words is good (I struggle to find a word that it doesn't have), but most words have only a small selection of translations into other languages, and most words in many languages are yet to get an entry. It is likely to remain a "work in progress" for many decades to come. There are, of course, separate "Wiktionaries" in other languages, such as the French one that claims to have words from 3800 languages, and another 156 versions (see Wavelength's comment below), most of them much more sparse than the English and French Wiktionaries in their coverage of other languages. Dbfirs 17:05, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- That's what I mean. Most languages have less than 10 entries there. Is that a dictionary already? It's surely a work in progress, and you have to start small. But it's a big claim to say that they have 1,558 languages.--Senteni (talk) 16:46, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- I refer to wiktionary:Wiktionary:Statistics#Selected language breakdowns.--79.56.177.210 (talk) 16:16, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- According to the article "Wiktionary" (version of 01:23, 14 March 2015), it is available in 158 languages. According to the selected language breakdowns, it has information about 1558 languages. Do you mean "the on-line dictionary with the most languages"? See Numbers in Over 5000 Languages.
- —Wavelength (talk) 16:51, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- In fr.wiktionary there are 5315 languages.--79.56.177.210 (talk) 17:26, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- Did you intend to link to 5315 defined languages available for entries? It's a lot more than they claim on their front page (linked above) for actual entries. Dbfirs 19:14, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- In fr.wiktionary there are 5315 languages.--79.56.177.210 (talk) 17:26, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
How to access "root node" on a mac
[edit]I want to change my finder view options on my mac running an older OS) and there's a problem with accessing "last opened" (grayed out). I then found this but the instructions require me to access "root node" and I don't know how to do that (I googled without success). Thank you. 108.54.16.72 (talk) 18:09, 4 April 2015 (UTC)
- Uhmm. This puzzles me too. The letter M and N are next to each other on the keyboard. Maybe they miss keyed and meant mode not node. I.E., Use the command line.--Aspro (talk) 22:32, 4 April 2015 (UTC)
- Oh. Just had a quick brows on my apple and it seems to be buried down in >NetInfo Manager<. How you get to it appears to depend on which OSX you have. [1] I would rather leave this to an other editor that has actually done this to guide you (I have only recently migrated away from my slide rule and log tables). This is the problem with both Apple and Linux. They are so stable that they hardly ever go wrong, so one never really needs to delve in to find out how they work.--Aspro (talk) 00:51, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- First of all, how much older? —Tamfang (talk) 02:36, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- I should have said. It's Snow Leopard, 10.6.8. 108.54.16.72 (talk) 04:56, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- I'am going to bow out of this because I don't have Leopard and this is out of my skill set. Sorry. Some of the Apple help desks may be offer some illumination--Aspro (talk) 17:52, 6 April 2015 (UTC)
- I had The Missing Manual for Snow Leopard, but now can't find it. —Tamfang (talk) 22:57, 7 April 2015 (UTC)
HP 6830s suspected dud PSU. Advice please.
[edit]Now first I should mention a curious issue with this machine, soon after owning it the battery stopped either charging or holding a charge. So it became a static PC.
But the problem right now seems to be severe slow down to the point of data corruption. I have replaced the HDD, and memory. Disassembled the thing and cleaned the fan manually. The last item on my list is the PSU and I believe this may correspond with the above issue.
So can anyone make any suggestions. Is this a known problem with hps. Is it an issue with the charging pack as opposed to the PSU perhaps? Any idea what parts costs could be. Thanks! — Preceding unsigned comment added by 86.24.128.230 (talk) 20:20, 4 April 2015 (UTC)
- A severe slowdown doesn't sound like a hardware issue at all, but a software problem, specifically malware. Have you done anti-virus scans, etc. ?
- Hard disk fragmentation could also be an issue, although this usually only crops up when the hard disk is 99% full to begin with.
- The one hardware issue it could be is low RAM, with it going to (extremely slow) paging space as a result. Do you use a monitor to see if your RAM is used up ? Note that low free RAM doesn't necessarily mean you don't have enough total RAM, it could also mean some program has a memory leak and will use up as much RAM as you can throw at it. Assuming you are running a recent version of Windows, you could use <CTRL> <ALT> <DEL> to get to the process monitor and watch for any process that's hogging resources. StuRat (talk) 21:01, 4 April 2015 (UTC)
Definitely none of those issues, but thanks. Those were the first bridges I crossed. I replaced the HDD and memory with no effect on the outcome. Speedfan reported normal temps and the fan didn't spin up nor does the machine heat up.
Its just slowing down, failing or stalling.86.24.128.230 (talk) 21:10, 4 April 2015 (UTC)
- How did you eliminate each of the possibilities I listed ? StuRat (talk) 21:15, 4 April 2015 (UTC)
I'm looking for serious advice here please. Stu, I'm sure you mean well but your suggestions are not applicable here. I really don't wish to repeat my other posts and end up sounding patronising to you in the process.
P.s all modules All sets passed memtest 86 with flying colors. — Preceding unsigned comment added by 86.24.128.230 (talk) 22:29, 4 April 2015 (UTC)
- The OP appears to have discounted the obvious. So something else is going on. Data corruption suggests a failing power supply but PSU's often fail completely. The HP batteries have a third sensor wire (described here as an id) [2] which can fail and thus cause the failure to recharge. The OP also asks if this is a known problem (slowing down, batteries etc). Apparently it is: HP Support Forums. Hopefully, it may just require a reinstall of the OS. Do please, give us feed back to how you get on.--Aspro (talk) 00:36, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- LI-ON batteries are known to work for 3 years. A battery pack for this computer is avail for 20 €, check if new and built not too long ago. A 6 year old computer may have failures like capactors, used to keep internal voltages stable. These "various colors" in the memory test are a typical symptom. --Hans Haase (有问题吗) 15:49, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
Will this power supply work?
[edit]I have a label printer that runs on batteries or a 9-volt DC adapter. It uses up batteries rapidly. I don't have a 9-volt charger but I have a 5-volt DC charger and a 12-volt DC charger that fit it. Will one of them work? Bubba73 You talkin' to me? 21:36, 4 April 2015 (UTC)
- No is the short answer. The 5V charger definitely won't work, and the 12V charger voltage is probably a little too high for a 9V system, so may damage the printer. We're also missing a vital piece of information - what current does the printer need? It should be written next to the power socket (something like 9V, 2A), or on a sticker somewhere. If your existing power supplies are actually designed as battery chargers, they won't have a very high current output - almost certainly not enough to power your printer. However, if you know the current, you'll probably be able to buy a new power supply from any electronics retailer. Tevildo (talk) 21:46, 4 April 2015 (UTC)
- And note that the 12V charger might pose a fire risk (if you left it to charge unattended it might overheat and cause a fire). StuRat (talk) 21:50, 4 April 2015 (UTC)
- Invest in something like Universal Power Supply. I am not in any way recommending this product but I use similar devices (that by now are ten years old or more) and have saved me a fortune in batteries. Invest in the right tools for the job.--Aspro (talk) 22:11, 4 April 2015 (UTC)
- US Amazon doesn't have this one, but there are ones by different companies. Bubba73 You talkin' to me? 00:40, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- That type of lbl printer is it? Have data sheets? --Hans Haase (有问题吗) 22:49, 4 April 2015 (UTC)
- First, thanks for all of the responses. It is a Brother p-touch label printer (this one). It uses 9 volt DC. Besides the 5-volt and 12-volt DC transformers, I have a 9-volt AC, but I know not to try that. (I have seven or eight transformers that work but I no longer use, but not the right one.) It uses six AAA batteries (6 watts) and uses them like mad. Bubba73 You talkin' to me? 00:32, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- Well, it would take six AAAs. Bubba73 You talkin' to me? 02:45, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- Now I'm thinking that it will probably be best to go to rechargeable batteries with a stand-alone charger. Bubba73 You talkin' to me? 01:07, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- Amazon do sell a power supply that's targetted at Brother labellers here. It _does_ look a bit cheap and nasty (and does not have good reviews), and I would prefer a more robust solution myself, but it should work. The current rating isn't given for the power supply - what is actually written on the labeller? Tevildo (talk) 09:44, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- The cheapest solution would be a battery eliminator. It looks like a battery with a cable, or the snap connector of the 9V battery connected to a cable, and a plug on the other end. If you don't want to spend more than $10, this is way to go. --Senteni (talk) 02:09, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- After reading other answers and manuals[3], the 6 batteries used are LI-ON type, 1.5 volts each. The required adapter (not declaged as a battery charger!) is a 9 volts, 1.6 amperes switching mode adapter, type "AD-24ES". The manual requieres to insert charged batteries in the label printer.[4] LI-ON batteries are known to work for 3 years. LI-ON batteries need a explictly desinged battery charger made for this kind of batteries. The manual also refers not to recharge batteries which are not designed for recharge. As I do not know the label printer, I would test for any charǵe functionality by removing the adapter from the wall socket, insert the batteries, plug the adapter to the printer only and turn it on. If it behaves like empty or no batteries, there is no functionality of any battery charger. Such DC-in jacks used th have a switch installed, disconnecting the batteries when plugged. Same behavior like boomboexes. The "AD-24ES" is 10 to 15 € and should have the same price in US$, care for specified wallplug and voltage! The label printer will loose its user defined settings when 3 mins without batteries (or DC input?) exeeds. Switching mode adapters are regulated DC adapters. A typical maximum voltage for some capacitors is 10 volts. If the printer uses linear regulators, the heat would be another problem to use another adapter. It is strongly recomended to remove the batteries before. --Hans Haase (有问题吗) 15:29, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- Warning I have very strong doubts the device uses lithium ion batteries of 1.5V. I'm not aware of any common lithium ion chemistries which gives a nominal voltage close to 1.5V. The closest may be Lithium–titanate batteries which have a nominal voltage 2.4V. http://batteryuniversity .com/learn/article/types_of_lithium_ion [5]. You can get 1.5V lithium ion replacement for common batteries types but these use normal 1ithium ion batteries (maybe polymer probably 14450 or something for AA and 10400 or some for AAA before the additional circuitry and stuff) with a small integrated voltage regulator. E.g. [6]. The PDF you linked to doesn't mention anything about 1.5V lithium ion batteries. Only AAA alkaline batteries. It also mentioned the possibility of AAA NiMH. (You could probably also use lithium primary batteries without problem although these shouldn't be charged.) Given that the device can use primary batteries, it's fairly likely it doesn't support any form of charging (it's normally possible to detect whether it's a primary or secondary, but devices may not bother, particularly if they aren't designed for rechargable, there's also no reason to mention fully charged in the manual if the device can charge the batteries). You could potentially use the AAA lithium ions on the device, but it's fairly unlikely it was designed for them (and really I'm not sure if it's worth bothering unless you're already using AAA lithium ion considering the hassle and disadvantages), and even in the unlikely event you can charge NiMH in the device, it's fairly unlikely you can charge AAA lithium ions in them given that such batteries normally need special chargers with connections to the unregulated voltage pins [7]). P.S. It's normally abbreviated li-ion not li-on because it comes from lithium-ion. Nil Einne (talk) 21:45, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- BTW, I realise "devices may not bother, particularly if they aren't designed for rechargable" is a tautology or otherwise doesn't seem that useful. What I meant to say is a device which is designed for rechargable batteries may have a safety feature to stop charging if it detects primary cells. But such a device will most likely be advertised and sold as rechargable from the get go. I think few devices will support bother to add recharging ability yet not come with it. (And definitely if they do, they will likely want to add some sort of safety to detect primary cells.) Nil Einne (talk) 03:05, 8 April 2015 (UTC)
- Warning I have very strong doubts the device uses lithium ion batteries of 1.5V. I'm not aware of any common lithium ion chemistries which gives a nominal voltage close to 1.5V. The closest may be Lithium–titanate batteries which have a nominal voltage 2.4V. http://batteryuniversity .com/learn/article/types_of_lithium_ion [5]. You can get 1.5V lithium ion replacement for common batteries types but these use normal 1ithium ion batteries (maybe polymer probably 14450 or something for AA and 10400 or some for AAA before the additional circuitry and stuff) with a small integrated voltage regulator. E.g. [6]. The PDF you linked to doesn't mention anything about 1.5V lithium ion batteries. Only AAA alkaline batteries. It also mentioned the possibility of AAA NiMH. (You could probably also use lithium primary batteries without problem although these shouldn't be charged.) Given that the device can use primary batteries, it's fairly likely it doesn't support any form of charging (it's normally possible to detect whether it's a primary or secondary, but devices may not bother, particularly if they aren't designed for rechargable, there's also no reason to mention fully charged in the manual if the device can charge the batteries). You could potentially use the AAA lithium ions on the device, but it's fairly unlikely it was designed for them (and really I'm not sure if it's worth bothering unless you're already using AAA lithium ion considering the hassle and disadvantages), and even in the unlikely event you can charge NiMH in the device, it's fairly unlikely you can charge AAA lithium ions in them given that such batteries normally need special chargers with connections to the unregulated voltage pins [7]). P.S. It's normally abbreviated li-ion not li-on because it comes from lithium-ion. Nil Einne (talk) 21:45, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- After reading other answers and manuals[3], the 6 batteries used are LI-ON type, 1.5 volts each. The required adapter (not declaged as a battery charger!) is a 9 volts, 1.6 amperes switching mode adapter, type "AD-24ES". The manual requieres to insert charged batteries in the label printer.[4] LI-ON batteries are known to work for 3 years. LI-ON batteries need a explictly desinged battery charger made for this kind of batteries. The manual also refers not to recharge batteries which are not designed for recharge. As I do not know the label printer, I would test for any charǵe functionality by removing the adapter from the wall socket, insert the batteries, plug the adapter to the printer only and turn it on. If it behaves like empty or no batteries, there is no functionality of any battery charger. Such DC-in jacks used th have a switch installed, disconnecting the batteries when plugged. Same behavior like boomboexes. The "AD-24ES" is 10 to 15 € and should have the same price in US$, care for specified wallplug and voltage! The label printer will loose its user defined settings when 3 mins without batteries (or DC input?) exeeds. Switching mode adapters are regulated DC adapters. A typical maximum voltage for some capacitors is 10 volts. If the printer uses linear regulators, the heat would be another problem to use another adapter. It is strongly recomended to remove the batteries before. --Hans Haase (有问题吗) 15:29, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- I have moved your comments to the bottom. In future add them there or somewhere else suitable, not to the top. Also please do not add spaces to the beginning of any lines. Nil Einne (talk) 21:56, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- ... and I've removed the duplicates. Dbfirs 07:49, 6 April 2015 (UTC)
- I used to work for Radio Shack. One of the things that I did was to sell different power supplies. The one you’re talking about is a 9 V DC adapter and it has a very specific plug,and it’s either a positive tip or a negative tip. It’s important to get this right as DC current is one direction whereas alternating current is both directions. Also you have to think about the way electricity works. The voltage is like a stream and the width of the stream whereas the amperage is the amount of pressure that forces the water down the stream. So if you get the wrong amperage in the wrong voltage you can fry one or several different circuits! With printers especially it’s important to get the exact current since they don’t have any kind of electrical firewall to protect against power surges! Three places you can go,so you can buy a printer power supply are www.us.tdk-lambda.com www.bestbuy.com and my personal favorite www.frys.com. I use to shop fries a lot when I lived in Indianapolis, but now I live in another state and I found that online I’m still able to get pretty much everything I need through them and have a wide selection. They also have a tech department you can call during normal business hours, and they are more than happy to help you figure out on the phone what it is you need exactly, so you can order it! I don’t work for any of those companies I just do part-time tech work and I’ve gone back to college for second-degree.Emwo226 (talk) 22:08, 5 April 2015 (UTC)
- Good advice from Emwo226 but the stream analogy is the wrong way round. Dbfirs 07:49, 6 April 2015 (UTC)