User:Vaynissa/Draft1
The natural hair movement was born in the USA during the 2000s[1][2]. This movement is named ′mouvement nappy′ in French-speaking countries. [3][4][5][6].
Definition and et features
[edit]The movement designates black women who want to keep their afro-textured hair. The ′nappy′ word has been subjected to denigration since the atlantic slave trade. Thereafter, some Afrodescendants has positively taken the word back, considered in francophone countries as a backronym made up of ′natural′ and ′happy′[3][7][8][9].
These women, called ′nappy girls′ or ′nappies′, give straightening up and let their hair grow in her natural texture. Their haircuts can be simple or more sophisticated, by the adoption of hair twists, braids or even locks[3][10].
Nappy hair : Ariadne's thread in the History of Afro-descendants
[edit]The unconscious relationship that some Afrodescendants have with their afro-textured hair can be approached in a reverse chronological order.
Since the 2000s, in the USA, then in France and in Africa, some black women have realized that their nappy hair can be beautiful. This calls into question the subconscious internalized association nappy = ugly ; They stop therefore to comply with the dominant aesthetic ideal beautiful hair = smooth hair. Through their hair, the nappies thus reconcile with their africanness[3][11][12].
This return to naturalness, at the organic era[13][14], has been encouraged by the awareness of the harmful effects of relaxers on scalp: itchings, red patches, burns, broken hairs or worse: alopecia (hair loss). However, among black women, 98% have their hair straithened at less one time in their lives ; and relaxers have represented no less than 70% of the cosmetic purchases carried out by the population. In the 1980s-1990s, the straightening had been mainstreamed[8].
Sooner, in the 1970s-1980s, the ′Jheri curl′, an other technique to loosening the nappy hair, became fashionable in the African-American community, popularized especially by some celebrities like Michael Jackson in Thriller.
During these same years, a new hairstyle appeared too: dreadlocks (naturally matted hair locks), popularized by Bob Marley and more generally by reggae music and the Rastafarian movement. This hairstyle can be a mark of social and spiritual distinctions: ′the adoption of long or very atypical hair [can reflect] rebellion or a refusal of the dominant values.′[15][9]
Previously, in the 1960s-1970s, the racial segregation between the black and the white had reigned in the United States. Angela Davis, a young human rights activist and member of the revolutionary movement Black Panthers created in 1966, made the ′Afro hairstyle′ famous. This dense and spherical hairdressing thus symbolized the emancipation and cultural affirmation of the African Americans. It was adopted by many stars like Diana Ross or the Jackson 5[4][7][9][16][6].
A century earlier, in 1865, slavery is abolished at the end of the American Civil War. Nevertheless, Black populations had looked for straightening their nappy hair, so as to move closer to the dominant aesthetics, if only to find employment. At the time, the most use instrument was the hot comb, until 1909, when Garrett A. Morgan invented a revolutionary relaxer cream[17][7][6][15].
During the atlantic slave trade, the conditions of servitude had not allowed to take care of one's hair, which had been subjected to denigration by the master : 'nappy′ had become pejorative.[18][19]
The deportation of millions of Africans get them separated from their originally aesthetic activities regarding hair care [17].
In the ancestral traditions, hairdressing is ′an activity during which the genealogy history and many other cultural features were taught to children. Every African hairdressing was codified according to the ethnic group and by status′[6].
It is the loss of this instrument [the African comb], all the more valuable that it is essential to the nappy hair care, which is going to dissociate Black people from the nature of their own hair, considered therefore as ′difficult to comb′. (...) The African was snatched from his comb when he was snatched from his native land and thus taken away from an irreplaceable cultural symbol, legacy and accessory from his beauty culture.
— Juliette Sméralda, Peau noire, cheveu crépu : l'histoire d'une aliénation
The natural hair movement today
[edit]For about ten years, thanks to Web 2.0, a growing number of people have been sharing their beauty advice via:
- blogs : Black Girl Long Hair[1][20][21], Naturally Curly[1][20][22], Curly Nikki[1][23][24], Hair Lista[20][25], Afrobella[1][26][27] in the USA ; Black Beauty Bag[9][28][29][30], Afrobelle[31][32], Ivy-Mag[33][34] in France ;
- Facebook pages :
- USA : Natural Chica[35][20][36] ;
- Quebec : Racines Crépues[37] ;
- France : Révèle-toi[33][38], Boucles d’Ébène[39][40][41], Belle Ébène[42][43], Natural Hair Academy[3][44], Black and Beautiful[45][46] ;
- Senegal : Astuces Beauté Africaine[47] ;
- Ivory Coast : Nappys De Babi[3][11][48] ;
- Cameroon : Les Bidouilles d'une Nappy[11][4], So Natural So Me[11][49] ;
- South Africa : My Fro & I[50] ;
- Togo : Frisettes & Co.[11] ;
- Mali : Nappys de Bamako[51] ;
- Democratic Republic of the Congo : Nappy Girls du Congo Kinshasa ;
- Gabon : Nappy du Gabon ;
- Guinea : Nappy de Guinée ;
- Niger : Les Nappy Du Niger[52].
- forums : Beauté d'Afrik[53] in France ; Long Hair Care Forum[1][25][54], Black Naps[55][56] and Nappturality[57][58] in the USA ;
- webzines : Naturally Happy Hair[59] in the USA ; FashizBlack[3][60], Afrosomething[45][61][62] in France ; Afro Style Magazine[63] in the Netherlands;
- videos : Beautiful Naturelle[3][33] in France.
These websites have expanped the natural hair movement around the world so as to highlight the black beauty[3][4][17].
Each woman has her own reasons to retrieve her authenticity: some of them want to preserve her hair against agressive hair styling methods (weavings too tight) or harmful straightening chemical products ; for others, they prefer nappy hair aesthetically in spite of the pressure from the dominant aethetic[8][6][11][7].
The natural hair movement has been encouraged by the choice performed by some stars to abandon straightening in favour of a comeback to their natural hair: amongst the nappies icons, there are Erykah Badu[64][65], Aïssa Maïga[3][66], Lupita Nyong'o[67][68], Solange Knowles[17][3][9][11][69], Inna Modja[3][8][70] or even Janelle Monáe[66][4].
-
Erykah Badu at a concert in July 2008.
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Aïssa Maïga during the 2007 Cannes Film Festival.
-
Inna Modja during a concert at Vaux-sur-Mer the 09/08/2012.
-
Janelle Monáe sang live at the Austin Music Hall on the occasion of SXSW in March 2009.
Outside of USA, several events has developed in order to accompany the natural hair movement, particularly in France and in Africa:
- The salon ′Boucles d'ébène′ : a demonstration, has existed for ten years, dedicated to the black hairdressing and beauty[3][40][71][41].
- The ′Miss Nappy Paris′ competition: the election of ′Miss Nappy′ so as to promote the afro hair beauty[3][72].
- The ′Massalia Nappy Days′: lectures, projections of documentaries and fashion shows[73].
- The ′Crépue d'ébène Festival′ at Abidjan (Ivory Coast): dedicated to the natural beauty of the African woman and to the highlighting of the nappy hair[74].
- The ′Natural Hair Academy′: event to better understand the nappy hair, days of advice by speakers[3][44].
- The ′AfricaParis Festival′ : dedicated to the afropean culture[3].
Criticisms
[edit]Some nappies, dubbed ′nappex′ (nappies considered extremists), become radicalised and claim that hair straightening is a mark of self disavowal.These guilt-laden are denounced by India.Arie and her song ′I Am Not My Hair′[17].
Nappy lexicon
[edit]Serveral words are frequently used in the vocabulary of the natural hair movement[4][10][75][76][77]:
- nappy girl : black woman who keeps his hair in its natural texture
- big chop : ′the big chop' consists in cutting one's straightened hair and let it grow in its natural texture
- bantu knot : little cabbages rolling on themselves
- transition : weaning period against straightening product
- protective hairdressing : like braids that preserve hair ends
- tiny afro : little afro haircut
- twist : double braids
- twist out : hairdressing that permits to curl one's afro
- yarn locks : braids performed with wool
- frohawk : hairdressing closed to the mohawk hairstyle
- shrinkage : narrowing of the hair fiber in contact with water
- nappex : nappies considered extremists
- co-wash : washing one's hair with after-shampoo
Notes and References
[edit]- ^ a b c d e f Template:Dr-make parameter
{{{2}}}
must be y, d, c, or m Josephine Metcalf and Dr. Carina Spaulding, African American Culture and Society After Rodney King: Provocations and Protests, Progression and "Post-Racialism", Ashgate Publishing Limited, 25/06/2015 - ^ Bustle, The History Of Natural Black Hair, Plus How 2014's Afro Has A Whole New Meaning , 20/06/2014
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p Le Monde, Crépues et fières de l’être, 05/02/2015
- ^ a b c d e f Le Point, Nappy, ce mouvement conquérant de la planète afro, 19/12//2014
- ^ Good Hair, 2009 movie directy by Jeff Stilson and produced by Chris Rock.
- ^ a b c d e Jeune Afrique, Juliette Smeralda : « Le modèle de beauté qu'on vend aux femmes du continent n'est pas africain », 06/11/2014
- ^ a b c d RFI, Le mouvement Nappy : défrisage et cheveux crépus, released on 16/01/2013
- ^ a b c d France Ô, La beauté noire, un marché porteur, released in 2014
- ^ a b c d e TV5 Monde, Dépigmentation de la peau et phénomène Nappy, January 2015
- ^ a b L'Express, Parlez-vous le nappy?, 03/10/2012
- ^ a b c d e f g Jeune Afrique, Mode : La vague « Nappy » déferle en Afrique, 06/11/2014
- ^ Mwalimu J. Shujaa, Kenya J. Shujaa, The SAGE Encyclopedia of African Cultural Heritage in North America, SAGE Publications, 15/02/2015
- ^ Madame Figaro, Les cheveux ont faim, 11/11/2007
- ^ INA, La phytothérapie, 07/11/2007
- ^ a b Juliette Sméralda, Peau noire, cheveu crépu : l'histoire d'une aliénation, Jasor, 2004
- ^ Marie Claire,Le nappy hair, nouvelle tendance des cheveux Afro30/04/2015
- ^ a b c d e Madame Figaro, Nappy hair : la revanche des femmes noires, 25/07/2014
- ^ Maxine Leeds Craig, Ain't I a Beauty Queen?: Black Women, Beauty, and the Politics of Race, Oxford University Press, 2002
- ^ Common Dreams NewsCenter, Why 'Nappy' Is Offensive', 12/04/2007
- ^ a b c d Template:Dr-make parameter
{{{2}}}
must be y, d, c, or m Johnson Elizabeth, Resistance and Empowerment in Black Women's Hair /Styling, Ashgate, 28/07/2013 - ^ Huffington Post, Leila Noelliste's Life May Be Unconventional, But It's Awesome, 13/06/2014
- ^ Business Wire, Ultra/Standard Acquires TextureMedia, 21/09/2015
- ^ Huffington Post, CurlyNikki Responds To Ebony.com's Rejection Of White Women Joining #TeamNatural, 07/07/2014
- ^ Ayana Byrd and Lori Tharps, Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America, St. Martin's Press, 12/01/2002
- ^ a b Lola Akingbola, 8 Weeks to Longer Hair!: A Guide for the Afro-Caribbean Woman. Discover Your Hair's Growth Potential!, Xlibris, 15/07/2013
- ^ Jeffery A. Riley, 2011 Social Media Directory: The Ultimate Guide to Facebook, Twitter, and LinkedIn Resources, Que Publishing, 25/08/2010
- ^ Derald Wing Sue, Miguel E. Gallardo and Helen A. Neville, Case Studies in Multicultural Counseling and Therapy, John Wiley & Sons, 12/08/2013
- ^ Le Parisien, Les nappys : afro, belles et contentes, 10/04/2014
- ^ Amina, Fatou N’diaye, 26/04/2014
- ^ RFI, Le mouvement Nappy : défrisage et cheveux crépus, 16/01/2013
- ^ Alexa, Audience Afrobelle.com in France, retrieved 30/05/2015
- ^ Maxi, Cheveux afro : les coiffer sans difficulté, 10/06/2015
- ^ a b c Salon Boucles d'Ébène, Bloguer en 2015 : Une passion ou un métier, 30/05/2015
- ^ L'Express, Ivy Mag: « La beauté d’aujourd’hui est multiple et diversifiée », 15/02/2013
- ^ Diane Carol Bailey and Diane Da Costa, Milady Standard Natural Hair Care & Braiding, Cengage Learning, 03/07/2013
- ^ Bustle, The Curlmix Subscription Box Is Like Birchbox For Curly Girls Who Love To DIY, 02/09/2015
- ^ Hellocoton, Masque Super hydratant Coco, Huile d'avocat et Banane inspiré de Racines Crépues - Par Maïka, 01/05/2013
- ^ 42 513 ′Likes′ on Facebook the 30/08/2015
- ^ Le Monde, Du cheveu à retordre au salon « Boucles d’Ebène », 01/06/2015
- ^ a b Réseau Outre-Mer première, Aline Tacite, fondatrice du salon Boucles d'Ébène : "Nous chérissons nos cheveux crépus, frisés, bouclés et ondulés", 30/05/2015
- ^ a b Juliette Sméralda, Du Cheveu défrisé au cheveu crépu, Broché, December 2012
- ^ L'Express, Bellebene organise sa Hair Academy d'été spéciale cheveux bouclés, 24/06/2013
- ^ Elle, Les cheveux crépus et frisés ont leur salon, 28/06/2013
- ^ a b Elle Belgique, La Natural Hair Academy : le rendez-vous des nappy girls, 17/03/2014
- ^ a b Madame Figaro, Beautiful black blogs : huit filles à suivre sur le Net, 29/06/2015
- ^ Cosmopolitan, Black and Beautiful, blog à la Une Beauté de Cosmo, retrieved 01/09/2015
- ^ 78 018 ′Likes′ on Facebook the 06/10/2015
- ^ CNN International, Ivory Coast's natural hair movement is turning heads, 17/02/2015
- ^ Camer Post, Cameroun – Soins capillaires : Le cheveu naturel revient au galop, 17/07/2015
- ^ Destiny, Hair recipe: Aisha’s daily spritz, 06/07/2015
- ^ Le Journal du Mali, Nappy de Bamako : Plus qu’un phénomène de mode, un retour aux sources, 10/09/2015
- ^ NigerDiaspora.net, Beauté africaine - Le retour de l'afro : Elles sont de plus en plus nombreuses à se mettre au nappy et à l'afro., 05/10/2014
- ^ Madame Figaro, Du Web à la grande distribution, le marché de la beauté noire fait sa révolution, 15/07/2015
- ^ PRWeb, NY-Based Caribbean Food Retailer Turns 14, Offers Free Shipping to US Troops, 06/10/2007
- ^ Huffington Post, How to Get Rid of Black Women With Kinky Hair, 16/07/2014
- ^ Publishers Weekly, Indie Spotlight on Children’s Authors, 27/06/2014
- ^ The New York Times, Black Hair, Still Tangled in Politics, 26/08/2009
- ^ CNN International, Bronner Bros. show highlights natural hair, 22/02/2011
- ^ Huffington Post, Open Letter to Allure, The New York Times and Other "Lamestream" Publications: If You Don't Know, You Better Ask Somebody, 08/07/2015
- ^ Madame Figaro, Notre but : banaliser la mode afro et la beauté ethnique. , 26/01/2012
- ^ Le Point, En images : top 10 des meilleurs blogs féminins lifestyle, 05/09/2014
- ^ Le Monde, A quand une femme noire en couverture de "Elle" ?, 31/01/2012
- ^ MediaUpdate, AfroStyle Magazine issue 11 out now, 07/04/2015
- ^ Hellocoton, Perruque afro : nappy ou pas nappy?, 05/04/2011
- ^ Abidjan.net, Nappy attitude: Back to the roots !, 07/10/2011
- ^ a b L'Express, Jolies Nappy Girls, 26/01/2012
- ^ Réseau Outre-Mer 1re, La beauté noire et métisse, 05/05/2015
- ^ Madame Figaro, Cheveu afro : le naturel reprend ses droits, 17/052015
- ^ Mouv', Phénomène nappy : les Sénégalaises revendiquent leur coupe afro, 13/01/2014
- ^ Aufeminin, Coiffure afro : Le nappy sexy d'Inna Modja, 07/08/2015
- ^ Le Monde, Salon Boucles d’ébène (30 May - 1st June), 27/05/2015
- ^ FashizBlack, Océane Lebubura élue Miss NAPPY Paris 2015, 04/12/2014
- ^ Mediapart, 1ères Massalia Nappy Days : Marseille sous le signe de la créativité et de la beauté au naturel, 17/09/2014
- ^ FashizBlack, Abidjan accueille « Crépu d’Ebène », son 1er festival dédié aux cheveux naturels, 12/08/2014
- ^ Hellocoton, Le lexique Nappy, 21/04/2013
- ^ Audrey Davis-Sivasothy, The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair, SAJA Publishing Company, 11/04/2014
- ^ Leslie DuBois, Natural Beauty, Little Prince Publishing, 21/09/2014
See also
[edit]Bibliography
[edit]- Aliona L. Gibson, Nappy: Growing Up Black and Female in America, Writers and Readers Ltd, 01/07/2000
- Juliette Sméralda, Peau noire, cheveu crépu : l'histoire d'une aliénation, Jasor, 2004
- Frantz Fanon, Peau noire, masques blancs, Seuil, 1952
- Willie Lee Morrow, 400 Years Without a Comb, Morrow's Unlimited Inc., 1973
- Ebony, Natural hair - new symbol of race pride, Johnson Publishing Company, December 1967
- Audrey Davis-Sivasothy, The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair, SAJA Publishing Company, 11/04/2014
Filmographie
[edit]- Good Hair, movie directed by Jeff Stilson and produced by Chris Rock in 2009.
- My Nappy Roots: A Journey Through Black Hair-itage, movie directed and produced by Regina Kimbell in 2008.