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St John the Baptist Church Bromsgrove

The Site

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A Saxon church existed on this ancient hilltop site, perhaps the Bremesbyrig which was fortified by King Alfred's daughter, Aethelflaed, against the Danes in 910 AD. This was rebuilt in stone around 1200 AD with a short chancel, a nave with transepts and narrow aisles. The chancel was rebuilt in the mid 13th century, when the aisles were also increased to their present width. An extensive programme of improvements in the mid 15th Century gave the church its present external appearance, roof, clerestory and porch, and crowned the 14th century tower base with the highest spire in Worcestershire. The church was restored in 1858 by Sir George Gilbert Scott after a period of decay.

INSIDE THE CHURCH

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The NAVE is the main body of the church and takes its name from the Latin word for a ship ("navis"), because it holds the congregation like passengers on a boat. The visible nave wall masonry below clerestory level is a mixture of late 12th and mid 13th century work, much disturbed by insertions and rebuilding’s. Its local red sandstone would originally have been plastered and painted. The chancel arch at the east end is a fine example of the Early English style of architecture, the earliest of the so-called Gothic styles.

The nave was originally covered with a steeply pitched roof, the line of which can be seen in the walls at either end of the nave over the chancel and tower arches. The introduction of stained glass and other decoration made the nave very dark and the walls were therefore raised in the mid-15th Century, to allow high clerestory windows to admit light above the level of the aisle roofs. A new, flatter roof was installed at the same time, its six huge oak trusses bearing the weight of the lead covering. This roof was rediscovered above an 18th century plaster ceiling when the church was restored in 1858. The carved bosses at the midpoint of each truss include, on the easternmost, a restored "Green Man", a familiar leafy-faced figure from folk mythology found in many medieval churches. There are several older Green Men around the church, hidden high in the stonework. Example


Each side of the nave is carried on an arcade of arches, opening into the north and south aisles. The north arcade is typically mid 13th century; while the south arcade, part of the late 15th century rebuilding, has much flatter Perpendicular style arches without capitals. The only arches to break this pattern are two on the north side. The separate easternmost arch may actually be the former entrance to a long-gone north transept of the late 12th century church. The adjoining small pointed arch is a Victorian insertion by Scott in an otherwise solid section of wall, more evidence, perhaps, of an old transept. The opening high above the pulpit is the top doorway of a now-blocked staircase to the Rood Loft, a great carved timber screen that once spanned the chancel arch opening. This carried the Rood (a large painted crucifix) and statues of saints. Sermons were preached from it and religious plays and songs were performed. Rood lofts were stripped from most churches by Royal Decree of Henry VIII
The oak and chestnut pews date from the 1858 restoration. Each carries a hand-carved roundel with a different wild flower, and more flowers or leaves adorn the arm rests. No two pews are alike.
The NORTH AISLE was added in the mid 13th century, still keeping the North Transept, although the original windows were replaced about a hundred years later by larger openings. The west window was rebuilt in the 15th century. The old Transept was demolished at the same time and the Aisle was extended east to form a chantry chapel. The three square headed windows with cusped tracery and the obvious change in stonework both inside and out, clearly show the newer work. The present Douglas Fir roof of 1858 replaced a flat 18th century plastered ceiling. The present font dates from 1847 and replaced its 1744 predecessor in the chantry chapel. The bronze First World War Memorial was designed by Captain R. Goulden ARCA. The small hollow stone cube on the window cill to the right of the War Memorial is an early Medieval heart burial casket.

The CHANTRY CHAPEL

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The Chantry Chapel was endowed by Alienora Stafford in 1478 in memory of her husband, Sir Humphrey Stafford, who was killed at the Battle of Blackheath in 1450. She also paid for a priest to say (or "chant", hence the name) masses in his memory. Chantries were discontinued by Henry VIII from 1545 and the present layout of the chapel is due largely to restorations in 1946 and 1952. A magnificent timber ceiling with carved brackets in the form of flying angels was, alas, sold for firewood by the Churchwardens in 1814, but its profile can still be seen in the band of 15th Century stone moulding high on the chapel east wall. The two magnificent alabaster table tombs have been moved at least twice since the 16th century. The tomb of Sir Humphrey Stafford, in his plate armour, and his wife Alienora, originally sat beneath the panelled canopy arch into the Chancel. The doorway in the side of the canopy arch once led to the rood loft. The 1550 tomb of Sir John Talbot of Grafton with his two (successive!) wives, once stood in the chancel. Talbot is also dressed in the plate armour of his day. His first wife, Margaret Troutbeck, wears a diamond-shaped head-dress, while Elizabeth Wrottesley, his second wife, has front-parted hair. Two early 17th century copper plaques to the right of the arch commemorate daughters of Sir John Talbot. The early 17th century oak communion table, box lectern and slightly earlier parish chest are all survivors from the first era of St John's as an Anglian church. Example

The CHANCEL

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The CHANCEL is a single work of the mid-13th century, including the tall East Window of five lancet lights under a single arch, although the restored south and north windows are early 14th century replacements. The present altar is a fine Austrian oak piece made in 1911 by the Bromsgrove Guild. Communion vessels were once washed in the restored stone piscina (basin) still set into the south wall. The stone sedilia (priest's seat) beside the piscina uses panels from the Stafford monument. In the opposite wail is a hagioscope, an angled opening through the wall which enabled two priests celebrating mass in different parts of the church at the same time to co-ordinate their movements at important points in the service. Our hagioscope links the chancel with a former Chantry Chapel, now the Vestry. To be buried in the chancel was a high honour. Among several interesting examples the oldest memorial is the rather battered alabaster figure monument of Lady Elizabeth Talbot (nee Greystock) of Grafton, Sir John's mother, who died in 1490. Later monuments include that on the north wall to John Hall, Bishop of Bristol who died in 1710, complete with a replica Bishop's crosier and mitre. Benjamin Maund's monument, on the south wall by the organ, commemorates a fine local botanical writer, whose "Botanic Garden" was published in 1825 and achieved international fame. The organ occupies a 13th century archway into the chancel. Originally built in 1859 by Nicholsons of Worcester for the chantry chapel, the organ has been added to many times over the years and was reconditioned and moved to its present location in 1950.

The SOUTH AISLE

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The SOUTH AISLE was widened in the 13th century and lengthened to form another chantry chapel, as the stone piscina on the south wall implies. The original arcade was replaced in the rnid-15th century by the present elegant arches and tall square-headed three-light windows were installed to improve the lighting. The four-light west window is also 15th century but its opposite number at the east end of the aisle, now hidden behind the organ, is from the 13th century widening. The organ is hidden behind Robert Pancheri's oak organ screen of 1969. Eight of the ten panels depicts a scene from local history, with St John the Baptist providing the bookends. The pretty little 15th century monument bay originally held the table tomb of a rich but now unknown patron. The collection of old stonework now placed here ncludes a 13th century grave slab with a foliated cross decoration, and two heavily worn Medieval effigies. The unusual bronze memorial on the south wall commemorates the South African (or Boer) War of 1899-1902 and is the work of Miss Amy Walford, a member of the Bromsgrove Guild. To the right of the door, George Lyttleton lies somewhat pensively in his ornate painted alabaster monument of 1600, moved from the chancel in 1864. Lyttleton was a Sergeant at Law (a senior barrister) and was related to the Talbot family. The soaring late 14th Century TOWER ARCH rises in a single stage without any horizontal breaks to a fine arch. It emphasises the clear height of the tower interior and the large and fine West Window. There are three upper stages to the tower, the ringing chamber, the clock room and, at the top, the belfry itself. These are all reached from a steep and narrow stone spiral stair in the south-wast comer. St John's has a good peal of ten bells, all dating from 1701 to 1816. The single bell-rope you can see allows the Fifth bell to be rung independently for ceremonial use.

The SOUTH PORCH

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The SOUTH PORCH was added to the South Aisle as part of the 15th century improvements. It replaced an earlier timber porch with a steeper roof, the weathering of which can be seen above the inner south door. The south door arch itself is an odd piece of work and may be the reset south door of the 12th century church. The two recesses either side of the inner door are, to the west, a statue recess and, opposite, a former holy water stoup. The 1858 outer doors and contemporary ironwork gates were designed to be interchangeable on the same hinges, the latter for summer use.

OUTSIDE THE CHURCH

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The SOUTH PORCH

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The SOUTH PORCH is a church in miniature, with offset angled buttresses and a deep battlemented parapet set out from the main wall-face. The dragon-like gargoyles are original but Pancheri's gilded statue of St John the Baptist carrying a famb above the door replaces a lost medieval figure in the original niche.
The handsome, well-proportioned TOWER rises externally in three stages to a panelled and battlemented parapet with finials at the comers. Three ore-Reformation full size figure statues over the West Window, now much weathered, depict St John, centrally, with Ss Peter and Paul to either side. More gargoyles circle the battlements, draining the parapet walk. The octagonal spire rises to a dizzying 197ft 6ins, with the glided weathercock taking the total height to 206ft 4ins. The clock dial on the east face of the tower dates from 1773 and was moved from a lower position in 1858.

The SOUTH AISLE

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The SOUTH AISLE is a patchwork of changes. Evidence of earlier windows can be seen to either side of the monument bay, and on the west wall, where the remaining left jamb of a lancet to the left of the present 15th century window hints at a formerly narrower aisle. The aisle east window, with its mid-13th century intersecting Y-tracery rises through the parapet moulding, indicating that it originally sat in a steeply pitched gable.

The LYCH GATE

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The LYCH GATE of 1656 stands at the top of the precipitous "48 steps" - actually 42 but once 63! This is probably the oldest route up to the church from the town. Lych gates, literally "corpse gates" sheltered the coffin while the opening sentences of the old Burial Service were read, and St John's once had at least three such gates, providing a less stenuous route for funeral procsssiorts than trie steps!

EAST END

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Walking round to the East End gives a better impression of the 13th century church, with its steep, unadorned gables and lancet windows. The Vestry attached to the north wall of the chancel can be better seen as the Chantry Chapel it once was, although it is now hemmed in by the 1909 choir vestry. From here you can also see the small 13th century stone bellcote over the east end of the nave. This once held a Sanctus bell, rung from inside the church in pre-Reformation days to let the town know that the most important point of the Mass had been reached. The East End and former Chantry Chapel

NORTH AISLE

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Like the South Aisle, the NORTH AISLE also reveals its history. The eastern half, with three square headed windows is the 15th century CHANTRY CHAPEL. Its larger, more regular stonework and battlemented parapet oversails the western, 13th century half of the aisle and extends its original chamfered wall head upwards by a few courses. The change is also evident in the differing buttresses and chamfered wall plinth. From pre-1858 views of the church, it is evident that only the easternmost window is original. The others were all more or less reconstructed by Scott in 1858, albeit on good evidence. The North Door is a plain piece of 13th century work, while the restored tracery on the west window appears 15th century, matching its counterpart in the South Aisle.

The CHURCHYARD

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St John's has an equally historic CHURCHYARD, closed to burials since 1857 when a new municipal cemetery was built across Church Lane. The various tombstones and table monuments are a mute record of local names, with the earliest legible stone apparently dating from 1567. Many of the inscriptions are beautifully carved in the elegant calligraphy of the early 18th century, and repay a closer view. Perhaps the most poignant monuments are the two black stones standing together towards the north side of the yard. These commemorate the death on 10th November 1840, of two young railwaymen at Bromsgrove station. Thomas Scaife (28) and Joseph Rutherford (32) were respectively engine driver and Works Foreman at the station, which lies at the foot of the steepest mainline railway incline in Britain. They were killed when an experimental engine exploded as they approached it in the station yard. Their colleagues paid for the stones in their memory and the beautiful and affectionate verse on Scaife's stone is justly famous. The engines depicted are their own more reliable machines, imported from Morris of Philadelphia, USA. The tall lime trees which ring the main yard were planted in 1764 and the present perimeter wall replaced an ancient stone boundary wall in 1815. Various iron gates and railings were removed during the Second World War but their loss has not spoilt this special place.
The church and its yard remain a welcome refuge of peace and tranquillity in a busy town, and we hope that you have found some of this in your visit. St John's modern congregation continues the thousand-year tradition of worship, fellowship and service in this holy place, and you are very welcome to join any of our sevices or activities.


THE STAINED GLASS

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===== South side east end: ===== 1858; paid for by Revd Dr John Day Collis to commemorate the restoration. Transferred from North Aisle East Window when the choir vestry was built in 1909. Depicts Christ's poo/7 Jesus Christ; Christ's little ones.

North Aisle and chantry chapel

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==== West wall: ==== 1867 by Lavers and Barraud; in memory of Thomas Day, Clerk to the Board of Guardians in recognition of his championship of the town's poor. Transferred from the South Aisle East Window when the organ was relocated in 1950. Jesus's works of mercy. ==== North wall. 1st from west: ==== c1906 by Amy Walford; in memory of Mary Walford, wife of Roger Prosser, and her four sisters' charitable works in Bromsgrove. The Walford sisters produced work for the Bromsgrove Guild. Dorcas, Timothy and Anna searching the scriptures. ==== North wall. 2nd from west: ==== c1887; in memory of Dr Roger Prosser, a well loved town GP. Faith, Hope and Charity. ==== North wall. 3rd from east: ==== 1883 painted glass by Ward and Hughes; in memory of Henry Hughes, a London artist who died, ironically, while visiting Bromsgrove to present designs for the Oratory window. The baptism of Jesus. ==== North wall. 1st from east: ==== originally the East Window of Bromsgrove School Old Chapel, remodelled and placed here in 1952 when the Chantry Chapel was restored. Donald Amphtett, a former pupil, paid for the restoration. Depicts the crucifixion of Jesus, with St John the Apostle and St Mary to either side

Chancel

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==== East wall: ==== 1860 by Lavers and Barraud. God the Father, above the Passion, Crucifixion and Resurrection of Jesus, above various events in Jesus's life. In 1800, one lancet apparently contained late 15th century glass depicting St. Wulstan of Worcester, the only Saxon Bishop to remain in office after the Norman Invasion.
==== South wall. 1st from east: ==== 1858 by Clayton and Bell; in memory of Dr John Maund, who died and was buried in Melbourne, Australia. Remodelled in 1945 when all but the central figures were removed St Paul and St Luke, respectively writer and physician.
==== South wall. 2nd from east: ==== 1858 by Clayton and Bell; in memory of Sarah, wife of Benjamin Maund and Mary, wife of Owen Maund. Remodelled in 1947 as above. The female virtues of purity of heart and charity. This and the previous window were unblocked in 1858.

South Aisle

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==== West wall: ==== 1914; in memory of Frederic Chavasse Knight, surgeon in Bromsgrove and Birmingham. Depicts Moses, Elijah, Elisha and Isaiah as healers. ==== South wall: ==== the plain glass in the 15th century windows is Hartley's Rolled Cathedral Glass. This was fitted during the 1858 restoration to all the windows which were not to receive stained glass. ==== Monument bay: ==== 1883 painted glass; by Ward and Hughes; in memory of Marianne Murray, wife of G.W.Murray, a former Vicar. The Resurrection of Jesus (centre) with Mary Magdalene meeting Jesus to one side; and the women meeting an angel at the tomb, on the other.

Porch

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==== West wall: ==== c1954 painted and stained glass by P.E.Lemmon of Bromsgrove; in memory of Douglas Ruxton Berwick, a well-known Bromsgrove scoutmaster. Depicts Jesus and a Boy Scout. This window was unblocked in 1858.

Tower

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==== South wall: ==== 1882 by Lavers, Westlake and Co; in memory of Revd. Dr John Day Collis, Headmaster of Bromsgrove School, who did much to help this town. Jesus commissions Peter to lead the disciples. ==== West wall: ==== 1870; by Jean-Baptiste Capronnier of Brussels in memory of Olivia, wife of Revd H.W.More-Molyneux, who died shortly after their marriage. This was Cappronnier's largest window in England. The parable of the five wise and five foolish virgins. ==== North wall: ==== 1882 in memory of George Harcourt Hornsby, another Bromsgrove surgeon. Depicts Jesus healing the sick.

References

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