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Beizi 褙子

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

This article is about the traditional Chinese attire. Also known as Beizi 背子.They're from the Han nationality traditional Hanfu. A title of nobility used during the Qin Dynasty.

A beizi (褙子) is an item of traditional Chinese attire common to both men and women, a large loose coat. It was most popular during the Song Dynasty and Ming Dynasty. During Song Dynasty, men barely wear Beizi during public service event, while women wear Beizi out in the public, aka daily clothing. The origin date of beizi is unknown, and someone believed that beizi and banbi had been adopted from Central Asia during the Song Dynasty through the Silk Road when cultural exchanges were frequent.^{[1][2][verification needed]} However, it is also believed to have been derived from banbi during the Song Dynasty, where the sleeves and the garment lengthened.^[3][4][5]

The gender difference is that while wide-sleeved beizi were considered formal wear for women (narrow-sleeved beizi were casual wear for women), both wide and narrow-sleeved beizi were only used as casual wear for men. It has a parallel/straight-collar (對襟) with side slits beginning at the armpit or at the waist. It can be secured at the front either with ties or a metal button.^{[verification needed]}

History

"Beizi", also known as "embroidery", also known as "cover", the back was created in the Qin, gradually adopted by the public. Regarding the name of the scorpion, there is another saying in the Song Dynasty that the scorpion is the sacred service, Song Beizi is long-sleeved, long clothing and body, underarm opening the hips, that is, before and after the clothes lapel non-closure, while the armpit and behind decorated Strappy style. The double belt of this arm could have tied the two front and back robes, but the scorpion of the Song Dynasty did not tie it with it, but hang it for decoration.The costumes of women in the Ming Dynasty mainly include shirts , pipa , Xia , back , armor and skirts. The basic styles of clothes are mostly from the Tang and Song Dynasties. They are generally right-handed and restore the customs of the Han people. Among them, Xia Wei , Xunzi, and Bijia are opposites, and the left and right sides are open. Adult women's clothing, with the changes in their family and identity, has a variety of different forms, ordinary women's clothing is relatively simple, mainly including skirts , scorpions, blouses , cloud shoulders and gowns .

BAIDU Info on Beizi

Introduction of Beizi(褙子)

Beizi is one of the traditional costumes of Han nationality.Its style is roughly as follows a kind of Chinese-style jacket with buttons down the front.The cloth under the armpit was cut apart to reveal the waist.Tie a special belt around your waist.Bezi's wide pendulum can exceed the knee.Through continuous development, Bei has evolved into a lady's ceremonial robe or dress. Bezi can be divided into two kinds, one is wide sleeve, the other is narrow sleeve.The wide-sleeved Beizi is decorated with lace and the collar runs down to the hem.Narrow sleeve beizi, cuff and collar trim lace, and collar lace only to the chest. Because it was influenced by Neo-Confucianism in Song Dynasty.People pursue simple dress.Men seldom wear Beizi outside. They wear Beizi inside their coats.Women wear Beizi outdoors and it's very popular. "Beizi", also known as "XiuJue", also known as "cover armor", was originated in Qin Dynasty and gradually adopted by plain folk. As for the name of the servant, there was another saying in the Song Dynasty that the servant was originally a servant-concubine's clothes, because the servant-concubine usually stood behind the housewife, so it was called "back". Slave concubines wear clothes that open their hips under their armpits and walk more conveniently. Today is a common custom, because the back is tied up, the movement is flexible, gradually used by warriors, and with armor, become uniforms for soldiers of all dynasties, also known as "military uniforms". Song Dynasty's pamphlets were long sleeves, long clothes, open hip under the armpit, that is, the front and back of the clothes were not sutured, but there were ribbons under the armpit and back suffixes. This double belt under the armpit could have tied the front and back skirts, but the Song Dynasty's clothes were not tied with it, but hanging for decoration, meaning to imitate the ancient form of single (underwear) tape, which means "good antiquity preserves the old". When wearing clothes, they are tied with silk at the waist. In the Song Dynasty, women wore clothes that were short at the beginning, but later lengthened, and developed into sleeves larger than shirts, long and skirt-length.The collar types of the pampers in Song Dynasty are straight collar, slanted collar and circle collar, and the most of them are straight collar. Inclined collar and circle collar are only worn by men when they wear inside their clothes, while women wear straight collar and flaps.

Women's clothes in Ming Dynasty mainly include shirts, jackets, Xiapei, backs, Yunjian and skirts. The basic style of clothes, mostly imitated from the Tang and Song Dynasties, is generally right-jacketed, restoring the customs of the Han people. Among them, Xia pei, Bei Zi and Bi Jia are in the right and left flanks. Adult women's clothing, with the changes of their families and identities, has a variety of different shapes. Ordinary women's clothing is relatively simple, mainly including skirts, Beizi, jackets, Yunjian and gowns.

Ming Dynasty portrait of man wearing a "Ming Styled" beizi over zhiduo. It was most popular during the Song Dynasty and Ming Dynasty. Wide-sleeved beizi were considered formal wear for women meanwhie narrow-sleeved beizi were casual wear for women, both wide and narrow-sleeved beizi were only used as casual wear for men. It was secured at the front either with ties or a metal button.

Women's clothes in Song Dynasty are characterized by straight, slender, long silhouettes, with narrow sleeves. This was in keeping with the Song people’s preference for reserved elegance. Song styles for women include ru/襦, qun/裙 (skirt), beizi/褙子 (jacket), banbi/半臂 (half-sleeve jacket), Song ku/宋裤 (Song-style trousers), shan/衫, ao/袄, etc. Outfits are accessorized with pibo/披帛(long scarf), weichang/围裳 (short outer skirt), and waist ornaments. Beizi was a very common style. Everyone can wear it, from the queen to service women. Beizi was an outer jacket, straight collar, length over the knee with either wide or narrow sleeves. Under both armpits, there were slits that were over two feet long, which was not common in other styles of female garments.During the Song, it was common to wear narrow-sleeved beizi over moxiong/抹胸 (chest undergarment) or ru on top, and skirt or trousers on bottom.Paintings and artifact of Song-style beizi:

structure and design Beizi is a kind of coat developed from Banbi or Zhongdan.It looks like a Zhongdan ,but the armpit two fringing is not connected.In Song Dynasty, it was popular to wear straight collar and double lapels, without buttons, with armpits open and waist tied with silk, and the lower part of the waist was over the knee.It can be worn by both men and women and is usually worn outside other clothes. Later generations had many changes.Men's Beizi is loose while women's Beizi is narrow.Men usually wear the Beizi as casual clothes or clothes lined inside the formal dress. Women, on the other hand, can wear it as a regular dress (public dress) and a regular dress inferior to a formal dress. Due to the difference in usage and time, its shape changes a lot. Men in the Song Dynasty wore them from emperors, officials, scholars, merchants, and guards. Women wear them from the rear, concubines, princesses to ordinary women.