User:Bohnenkraut11/Saxon Switzerland climbing region draft

The Barbarine on the Pfaffenstein, first climbed in 1905, out of bounds since 1975

Climbers on the summit of Kleiner Wehlturm near Rathen

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Saxon Switzerland (German: Sächsische Schweiz) is the largest climbing region in Germany, located in the Free State of Saxony. The region is largely coterminous with the natural region of the same name, Saxon Switzerland, but extends well beyond the territory of the National Park within it. It includes the western part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains and is the oldest non-Alpine climbing region in Germany. Its history of climbing dates back to the first ascent in modern times of the Falkenstein by Bad Schandau gymnasts in 1864. The region is regarded as one of the birth places of free climbing. Currently there are over 1,100 summits with more than 17,000 climbing routes in the Saxon Switzerland area.

Climbing in Saxon Switzerland

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Climbing in Saxon Switzerland is characterized by a strong traditional climbing ethic and some peculiarities rarely found in other climbing areas around the world, with the exception of Czech sandstone climbing regions, where similar rules apply. Climbers must adhere to the Saxon Climbing Regulations. The main principles of climbing in Saxon Switzerland are based on the idea of free climbing and a commitment to protecting the soft sandstone, which is prone to erosion and can be easily damaged, especially when wet. This results in specific rules and customs regarding safety equipment and climbing style.

Protection

Lead climber at Papststein.

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The main means of protection are slings which are tied around natural features or threaded through natural holes in the rock. Knotted slings can be firmly placed within cracks, functioning similar to a camming device. Any form of metal protection such as nuts, cams or pitons are forbidden to use as they may damage the rock. Ring bolts can only be found in routes of the grades V and higher (with a few exceptions) but are only placed when no other means of protection is possible. There are usually large distances between rings and routes with only one or two of them are very common. Therefore, climbers often face large runouts and need to rely on slings for protection even in very hard routes.

Only the person who makes the first ascent of a route is allowed to install ring bolts during the climb from the ground up. Bolting a route while hanging from a top rope is not permitted. In exceptional cases, later additions of ring bolts are decided by a commission of the Saxon Climbers Federation (SBB) when natural protection features have been destroyed or a route proves to be too dangerous. Bolts may also be placed as anchors in multipitch routes.

Climbing Style

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The lead climber places all the protection from the ground up. Due to the limited protection, falls must be avoided, especially when relying on slings only. Upon reaching the summit, the leader anchors him- or herself using the abseil ring, a preinstalled anchor bolt or slings and belays the second and other members of the climbing party from the top. The second removes the protection during their climb. When all members of the climbing party have reached the top, the summit register is signed and all climbers usually rappel. Toproping is generally frowned upon and only allowed when not using abseil rings and it is ensured that the rope can not damage the rock.

The Saxon Switzerland offers a large variety of single and multipitch routes of all difficulties and techniques such as chimneys, cracks, slabs and face climbing. The sometimes sparse and unusual possibilities of placing protection require practice and not only physical but also mental strength. Climbers should be confident to master a grade before starting a climb because resting on a weighted rope or retreating might not be safe or easy options.

Grading System

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The Saxon Switzerland has its own grading system that was developed at the beginning of the 20th century. It uses roman numerals to denote the level of difficulty. Grades of VII and higher are subdivided by the letters a, b and c. The Saxon Grading System is also used in other parts of East Germany and the Czech Republic. The hardest route in Saxon Switzerland is graded XIc.

Additionally, there are grades for horizontal jumps, represented in Arabic numerals ranging from 1 to 7.

Routes that are deemed especially worthwile are marked with one or two asterisks.

Restriction on free-standing rock towers

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Climbing is only permitted on designated free-standing rock towers with at least 10 m prominence. An historic exception are three massifs which may be climbed. Almost all summits are furnished with summit registers and abseiling rings. These, like other safety rings, are maintained by the Saxon Climbers' Federation (SBB).

Jumps, boosts and human pyramids

It is possible to reach some summits by jumping either from a massif, another summit or other rock features. Jumps are often counted as routes in themselves and are graded according to difficulty between 1 and 7.

Another speciality of Saxon rock climbing is the overcoming of difficult passages with the help of one or more fellow climbers who may give each other a boost or even build human pyramids. These so-called "Unterstützungsstellen" (supported passages) are described as such in the guide book and might occur when the difficulty of the respective part of the route drastically differs from the rest of the route. If the passage has been climbed free (without support), two different grades (with and without support) are indicated in the guidebook.

Saxon Climbing Regulations

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Climbing regulations for Saxon Switzerland were first printed in a guidebook published by Rudolf Fehrmann in 1913, and have only be slightly amended since. The basic principles had been developed before 1900, mainly by Oscar Schuster. Their main feature is that artificial aids to rock climbing are not permitted. They therefore constitute one of the foundations of the concept of free climbing, which is the most prevalent form of climbing today.

The climbing regulations are part of the mountain sport concept required under the National Parks Ordinance for the Free State of Saxony, which lays down how and to what extent climbing in the Saxon Switzerland National Park may be undertaken.

The most important regulations are:

• Artificial aids are forbidden. The climber is only allowed to use natural hand- and footholds and must use his own bodily strength to climb.
• Ropes, slings, carabiners, etc., may only be used for protection.
• The existing surface of the rock must not be altered (exceptions are ring bolts).
• Ring bolts may only be installed by the first person to climb a route. The bolting of subsequent rings is decided by a sub-committee of the SBB.
• The use of chalk or pof is forbidden.
• Nuts, friends and other forms of metal protection are banned. Only slings may be used.
• First ascents of a new climbing route may only be attempted from bottom to top. The opening of new routes by driving in bolts "from above" (i.e. by hanging off a rope from the summit or ledge) common in other climbing areas, is forbidden.
• Climbing is forbidden on wet or damp rocks.

In addition, the regulations cover in detail the procedure for first ascents, climbing bans, the scale of climbing grades and conduct when climbing.

History of Rock Climbing in Saxon Switzerland

Based on: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geschichte_des_Kletterns_in_der_S%C3%A4chsischen_Schweiz

19th Century Beginnings

The first ascent of the Falkenstein by a group of gymnasts in 1964 is regarded as the beginning of rock climbing in Saxon Switzerland. However, they still used artificial aids such as ladders. In 1874 Otto Ewald Ufer and H. Frick made the first ascent of the Mönch near Rathen without any such aids and were therefore the first to free climb. This greatly influenced the development of climbing in the region.

In the 1890s, a group of climbers around the alpinist Oscar Schuster started to use the Saxon Switzerland as a training ground for their alpine endevours and made first ascents on some of the most remarkable rock towers, reaching the difficuly grade of IV. In the following years, climbers reached all of the most important summits that could be ascended via chimneys and cracks, which was a relatively safe and preferred way of climbing at the time. The most important first ascends of the period were Bloßstock (Wenzelweg V) by Heinrich Wenzel in 1899, the Brosinnadel (Alter Weg IV) by Fritz Brosin in 1899 and the Kreuzturm (Alter Weg V) by Hermann Sattler in 1901.

Oscar Schuster was the first to publish the description of routes in a series of articles for the magazine Berg und Thal from 1904 onwards. These were later used in the guidebook published by Rudolf Fehrmann.

Early 20th Century

At the beginning of the 20th century, there were already over 500 active climbers in the Saxon Switzerland. The first ascent of the route Überfall on the Lokomotive by Albert Kunze and Oliver Perry-Smith in 1903 marked the move to climbing rock faces and increased the level of difficulty. Perry-Smith and Rudolf Fehrmann became the leading figures of that era. The first ring bolt was installed in 1905 at Großer Wehlturm. Other remarkable first ascents include the Jungfer, Barbarine, Wilder Kopf and Teufelsturm, where a difficulty of VII was reached. One of the most dangerous climbs at the time was the Weinertwand (now VIIa) at Vexierturm which cost many lives.

The Sächsische Bergsteigerbund (Saxon Climbers' Federation) was founded in 1911 and subsequently influenced the development of climbing in Saxon Switzerland.

The start of World War I put climbing to a halt and in 1917 a general climbing ban was imposed. Many climbers died at the front or in prisoner of war camps, among them also Oscar Schuster.

In 1908 Rudolf Fehrmann published the first climbing guide book that included about 200 rock summits and 400 routes. In the 1913 edition, Fehrmann formulated binding rules for climbing for the first time. These rules still apply to today and include:

• Only natural foot- and handholds must be used.
• The rock must not be altered.
• Ring bolts for safety may only be installed during first ascents

In its 1923 edition Fehrmann used the Saxon Grading Scale with grades from I to VII for the first time. It included 1,004 different routes.

Between the World Wars

At the beginning of the 1920s the establishment of new routes increased again. One of the most prolific climbers at the time was Emanuel Strubich who reached the grade of VIII at the Westkante of Wilder Kopf. Other remarkable achievements of the time were the Westkante (VIIc) at Falkenstein by Otto Dietrich, Kuniskante (VIII) at Rauschentorwächter and Rostkante (VIII) at Hauptwiesenstein by Hans Rost. This grade would remain the highest achieved difficulty for about 30 years.

During the 1920s a number of other climbing associations and clubs were founded and harsh rivalries ensued. These were also politically motivated. After the National Socialists came to power in 1933 many of those clubs, such as the left-wing Vereinigte Kletterabteilung, were banned and the Saxon Climbers Federation was increasingly engrossed by the Nazis. Many sections of the German and Austrian Alpine Club had already established antisemtic regulations in the 1920s. While many climbers quickly joined the Nazi Party, some fought as Rote Bergsteiger (Red Mountaineers) against Nazism. Many of those antifascists were later prosecuted, imprisoned and killed, such as Kurt Schlosser and Herta Lindner.

Between 1919 and 1932 over 700 first ascents were conducted in Saxon Switzerland, 50 of them between VIIc and VIIIb.

1945 - 1966

Nach der Zäsur durch den Zweiten Weltkrieg und dem Tod vieler Kletterer kam es bereits im Jahr 1946 zur Wiederaufnahme der Erstbegehertätigkeit. So wurde die Nordwand der Lokomotive-Esse (VIIIa) durch Hans Michael erstmals bezwungen. Durch Harry Rost, Karl-Heinz Gonda und Herbert Wünsche folgte eine Erschließung schwerer, meist anspruchsvoller Wege wie Meurerturm-Westwand (VIIIb), Dreifingerturm-Ostrisse (VIIIb) und Rohnspitze-Dolch (VIIIb). Schon 1948 wurden wieder 81 Wege neu erschlossen. Im Jahr 1952 gelang es Harry Rost mit der Schwager-Talseite, die Schwierigkeit auf VIIIc zu steigern. Heute ist der Weg ohne „Baustelle“ geklettert mit der Schwierigkeit IXa bewertet. Alle genannten Kletterer verließen bald darauf die DDR. Karl-Heinz Gonda verunglückte 1952 in der Eiger-Nordwand kurz vor dem Ausstieg tödlich.

Nach dem Krieg wurde der Sächsische Bergsteigerbund, wie viele andere bürgerliche Vereine auch, von der Sowjetischen Militäradministration verboten. Seine Aufgabe als Dachorganisation übernahm die 1952 gegründete „Sektion Touristik“ der DDR, aus der später der Deutsche Verband für Wandern, Bergsteigen und Orientierungslaufen (DWBO) hervorging. Schon 1948 begann die Einflussnahme des Staates auf das Klettern. So begannen sich viele Bergsteiger unter massivem politischen Druck den Betriebssportgemeinschaften anzuschließen. Die vor dem Krieg bestehenden Klubs schlossen sich meist diversen Betriebssportgemeinschaften an, ohne sich aufzulösen. Sie nutzten die Vorzüge dieser Vereinigungen, bei denen sie versichert waren und eine gewisse Unterstützung bekamen.

Ein weiteres Mittel, die Bergsteiger an den Staat zu binden, war die Einführung der einheitlichen Sportklassifizierung nach sowjetischem Vorbild im Jahr 1953. Diese Einführung wurde, da sie nach Ansicht der Bergsteiger der Tradition des sächsischen Bergsteigens widersprach, lange Jahre boykottiert. Erst im Jahr 1957 fanden sich Einzelne dafür bereit. Drei Jahre später entschlossen sich daher 13 der damals bekanntesten Bergsteiger, unter ihnen Herbert Richter, einen siebenseitigen Brief an den Ersten Sekretär der SED, Walter Ulbricht, zu verfassen. Sie verwiesen auf die Erziehung des Bergsportes zu Charakterstärke und anderen moralischen Qualitäten auch ohne Klassifizierung. So hieß es unter anderem: Die Verfechter der Klassifizierung bezeichnen unser Bergsteigen als Weltflucht und glauben, alle Bergsteiger nur durch die Klassifizierung erziehen zu müssen und zu können. Aber was haben sie damit erzogen? Dogmatiker, Karrieristen! Sie haben an die Stelle des denkenden, fühlenden, sehenden Menschen den Katalog gesetzt. Sie fördern damit die Unredlichkeit in unserem Sport. Sie überzeugen nicht, sondern gebrauchen Zwangsmittel. Sie verdrängen ethische Prinzipien durch reine Körperertüchtigung.

Kletterer an der "Tante" in den Schrammsteinen (1963)

Im Jahr 1953 erschien der Kletterführer „Der Bergsteiger – Ein Kletterführer durch die deutschen Mittelgebirge“ Teil 1, der zweite Teil erschien sechs Jahre später. In diesem wurden etwa 600 Gipfel und 3000 Wege genannt. Er war nach einem kleinen Nachtrag aus dem Jahr 1950 der erste vollwertige Kletterführer nach 1927.

Anfang der 1950er Jahre gab es mit Wulf Scheffler, Dietrich Hasse und Lothar Brandler weitere Erstbegeher, welche mit Falkenstein Westgrat (VIIIc), Direkte Westkante und Südwand (beide VIIIb) sowie Rohnspitze Direkter Dolch (VIIIc) weitere schwere und anspruchsvolle Wege erschlossen. Auch sie verließen die DDR. Zusammen mit ihnen trat mit Herbert Richter ein weiterer Erschließer auf. Er war in den Folgejahren einer der erfolgreichsten Erstbegeher. Er beging mit den Wegen Direkter Herbstweg an der Nördlichen Pfaffenschluchtspitze (VIIIc), Fledermausweg an der Sommerwand (VIIIc), Nordwand am Bloßstock (VIIIa), später von ihm frei geklettert (IXa), Westkante am Kreuzturm (VIIIc), Rübezahlstiege am Frienstein (VIIIc) sowie Roberts Rippe an den Flachsköpfen (VIIIc) mehrere Wege am damaligen Leistungslimit. Im Jahr 1972 gelang ihm sein nominell schwerster Weg, der Linksweg (IXa) am Großen Halben. Neben Herbert Richter gehörten Kurt Richter, Heinz Urban und Fritz Eske zur damaligen Leistungsspitze. Letzteren gelang mit der Königshangel (IXa) im Jahr 1964 am Frienstein der damals wohl schwerste Weg der Welt. Weitere Topwege dieser Jahre waren die Ostwand am Teufelsturm (VIIIc) und die Westwand (VIIIc) am Turm am Verborgenen Horn. Durch den Absturz von Kurt Richter, Fritz Eske und Günter Warmuth sowie Günter Kalkbrenner im Jahr 1967 in der Eiger-Nordwand ereilte die Kletterer in der Sächsischen Schweiz ein herber Verlust. Nachdem sich auch noch Herbert Richter aus der Erschließung des Gebirges mehr und mehr zurückzog, drohte eine Stagnation der sportlichen Entwicklung.

In den 1960er Jahren begann vor allem durch Hans-Joachim Scholz, Gisbert Ludewig und Dietmar Heinicke eine flächendeckende Erschließung noch freier Felsflächen und hauptsächlich kleinerer, von Kletterern gern als Quacken bezeichneter, noch unbestiegener Felstürme, die sich bis in die 1980er Jahre hinzog.

Im Jahr 1961 erschien ein Kletterführer unter Leitung Dietmar Heinicke. Mit diesem Führer wurden erstmals die Schwierigkeitsgrade VII a bis c als Unterteilung des VII. Grades aufgeführt. Der Nachtrag aus dem Jahr 1965 hatte schon zwei Bände.

After German Reunification

Schuster relief on the Schuster Way on the Falkenstein

Climbing areas

Climbing areas within Saxon Switzerland

The climbing region Saxon Switzerland is divided into the following areas:

• Affensteine
• Bielatal
• Brandgebiet
• Erzgebirgsgrenzgebiet
• Gebiet der Steine
• Großer Zschand
• Hinterhermsdorfer Gebiet
• Kleiner Zschand
• Rathener Gebiet
• Schmilkaer Gebiet
• Schrammsteine
• Wehlener Gebiet
• Wildensteiner Gebiet

Climbing rocks

The following is a selection of climbing rocks in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region:

• Affensteine
• Bärensteine
• Falkenstein
• Frienstein
• Gohrisch
• Lokomotive
• Mönch
• Nonne
• Papststein
• Pfaffenstein
• Rauenstein
• Schwedenturm
• Teufelsturm
• Wartturm
• Zschirnsteine

Sources

• Karl Däweritz: Klettern im sächsischen Fels. 2. erw. Auflage, Sportverlag, Berlin 1986, ISBN 3-328-00097-6.
• Dietmar Heinicke (Hrsg.): Kletterführer Sächsische Schweiz. Berg- & Naturverlag Rölke, Dresden 1999/2003 (6 Bände).

1. Affensteine, Kleiner Zschand. 2002, ISBN 3-934514-05-7.
2. Bielatal, Erzgebirgsgrenzgebiet. 2000, ISBN 3-934514-02-2.
3. Gebiet der Steine. 2001, ISBN 3-934514-03-0
4. Großer Zschand, Wildensteiner Gebiet, Hinterhermsdorfer Gebiet. 2001, ISBN 3-934514-04-9.
5. Schrammsteine, Schmilkaer Gebiet. 1999, ISBN 3-934514-01-4.
6. Wehlener Gebiet, Rathener Gebiet, Brandgebiet. 2003, ISBN 3-934514-06-5.

External links

• Full set of Saxon Climbing Regulations
• Datenbank zu Climbing routes in Saxon Switzerland
• Overview of Saxon climbing
• Photographs of ausgiebigen Baustellen
• Video of Adam Ondra bolting a route in Czech Sandstone
• Documentary on the first ascent of "Die Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten"

Category:Saxon Switzerland Saxon Switzerland Category:Sächsische Schweiz-Osterzgebirge