User:Blisco/Salvage
This is a temporary holding-ground for useful but unencyclopedic (as distinct from Uncyclopedic!) content that I've removed from articles. I intend to move it to Wikibooks at some point; if you want to do the job yourself you are most welcome. (Turns out this kind of material is outside the scope of Wikibooks, so I guess it'll have to go to a personal website or be removed entirely.)
Scrambling traverse of the Aonach Eagach
[edit]The Aonach Eagach is normally tackled from the Glen Coe (south) side. The most common route is from east to west, initially ascending to the ridge just east of Am Bodach by way of the watercourse of the Allt-na-righ. The summit of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh lies only two km to the west, however a number of pinnacles must be scrambled over, and it is not uncommon for parties to take more than two hours to cross this seemingly short distance. There are a couple of sections where the use of a rope may prove prudent.
After reaching the summit of Am Bodach, the ridge soon presents a rude awakening in the form of a 20m near-vertical descent. It is not complex as it simply involves downclimbing a series of ledges, but since you look down onto a narrow ridge which falls away steeply to both the north and south (3000' right down to Glen Coe), the feeling of exposure is high. This obstacle is often described as being the worst part of the entire ridge and it cannot be avoided. From here it is an easy walk on a wide ridge to reach Meall Dearg.
It is possible to escape the ridge here by heading north and descending towards Loch Leven. Otherwise, from here on the only escape is to either complete the ridge or to reverse it. Some have found ways to escape it, having reached an obstacle beyond their comfort zone, but all accounts are of lucky escapes on impossibly steep ground and bewilderment at their own survival since, from above, steep grass and scree slopes hide even steeper slopes which end in cliffs, on both north and south sides of the ridge. Many have not survived to give any account at all, when they would have been likely to had they simply continued along the ridge or reversed it.
The ridge proper now starts and the first obstacle presents itself as an enclosed chimney, a narrow vertical cleft in a rock face which has to be stepped up and cannot be avoided. The first few moves at the foot of this feature are considered to be the technical crux of the entire route, from a mountaineering perspective, but it soon gets easier as you go up.
From here the ridge switches between being broad and narrow and some avoidable pinnacles are encountered. A difficult downclimb at their far end can be avoided by using a bypass path which passes the pinnacles on the north side.
A descent to a narrow saddle follows, and then a climb to another accepted crux of the route, a crux from the exposure perspective, where two small pinnacles have to be negotiated. They are located on the top of what could be described as a high vertical corn flake and although the pinnacles themselves can look intimidating, the most unnerving section involves traversing a one foot wide section of vertical flake, with significant exposure on both sides, with nothing else to steady yourself other than the same piece of rock that your feet are stood on. The pinnacles, at least, give you something to hang on to. Some guides suggest that this section can be avoided using a bypass path on the north side of the ridge, but advice is that this is less safe than keeping to the crest of the ridge as it crosses very steep and eroded slopes and requires equally significant exposed rock climbing to reach it.
This exposed section ends with a steep upclimb on the north side of the ridge. Once completed, some guides suggest that this is where fear levels can now subside, but this is not the end of the difficulties. The ridge continues as a narrow path on top of a long rocky pinnacle with immediate vertical drop offs on both sides, followed by a significant descent to another saddle. Another obstacle is encountered as a square pinnacle, unavoidably blocking the narrow ridge. A 4m climb up a fissure on the left of the face brings you to the top. From here a certain amount of steep, sometimes narrow and exposed, but less challenging climbing and descending brings you to the foot of the safe ascent to the summit of Stob Coire Leith, from where an easy broad ridge walk with exceptionally dramatic views takes you to the ridge end at Sgorr nam Fiannaidh.
From Sgorr nam Fiannaidh, the most direct descent is to head south by southwest, down a steep zig-zag path leading by the side of Clachaig gully. This 'path' is exceptionally steep and extremely loose in places, and has many small rock steps; it approaches close to the main gully in several places and so is potentially dangerous (fatal accidents have occurred here). A gentler alternative is to continue along the ridge, until reaching the bealach between Sgorr nam Fiannaidh and the Pap of Glencoe. From here a track heads down the hillside, ending on the road just outside Glencoe village. It is also possible to retreat approximately 200m east from the summit of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh and descend directly down the scree slope to Loch Achtriochtan, taking care to avoid being drawn into gullies further down. This descent also requires care, particularly near the top, but is still far safer than the Clachaig Gully descent.
Alternatively, the two Munros may be bagged individually by simply descending by the route of ascent. However it is for the traverse that the Aonach Eagach is best known.
In winter, the ridge is a fine expedition, though considerably harder than in summer (Scottish Winter Grade I/II), and many parties will go roped for some sections. Because of the short winter days, benightment on the ridge or its approaches is also not infrequent.