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Invoice header J.Offenthal & sons

Offenthal

Offenthal is a French leather goods brand founded in Paris in 1895 by Jonas Offenthal. Initially renowned for the quality of its evening bags, the brand also gained fame for its line of perfumes and beauty products, "Ce soir ou Jamais"[1] during the interwar period.

In the aftermath of World War II, the brand reached its peak fame through the creations of Lucienne Offenthal and frequent features in the 1950s-1960s editions of the magazine L’Officiel de La Couture et de la Mode.[2]

Iconic figures like Gloria Swanson in the United States and Mary Marquet in France supported the brand, bolstering its prestige.

I. Foundation and Early Years ( (1895-1914)

In 1895, Jonas Offenthal, originally from Warsaw, immigrated to Paris with his wife Itta and their six children (Jonas, Rosa, Albert, Louis, Abraham, Jacques) to escape the intensifying pogroms in the Russian Empire. He established his first leathergoods workshop in the Marais district of Paris, at 34-36 Rue des Francs-Bourgeois[3]. Jonas Offenthal quickly earned a reputation among the elegant women of the Belle Époque. Offenthal became progressively recognized for his exceptional craftsmanship, laying the foundations for a lasting legacy that would span several decades.

Théâtre Daunou Programme - Arthur - 1929-1930

Initially presented under the name Jonas Offenthal, the leather goods workshop soon became J. Offenthal & Fils with the involvement of his four sons, Adolphe, Louis, Albert, and Jacques, around 1910.

II. Interwar period (1920-1939)

During the Roaring Twenties, the company gained considerable recognition in Paris, transitioning from an industrial leather goods manufacturer to a high-end luxury retailer. Made from various materials, their bags were admired not only for their beauty but also frequently used in numerous theatrical productions, becoming essential elements of actresses' wardrobes and cementing the brand's reputation as a supplier of timeless glamour. Many theater programs for plays performed at venues such as Théâtre des Nouveautés, Théâtre Daunou, and Théâtre de la Porte Saint-Martin mentioned Offenthal's creations. Actresses like Jane Chevrel, Marthe Ferrare, Gina Relly, Mireille Perrez, Marguerite Ducouret, Madeleine Lély, Vera Sergine, Marcelle Parisys, and Elvire Popesco served as ambassadors for Maison Offenthal on the Parisian stage.

Le Matin - 29.12.1930
Offenthal ad - Lipstick - Mary Marquet - 1928

In addition to its iconic bags, Offenthal diversified its product offerings to meet the varied needs of its clientele. With the introduction of their perfume "Ce Soir ou Jamais" in 1927, they gained international recognition. This perfume was promoted by Gloria Swanson in the United States[4], in connection with the presentation of the film Tonight or Never, in which she starred. Inspired by a Hungarian play written by Lili Hatvany, the title Tonight or Never (Ce Soir ou Jamais) was directly inspired by the Offenthal perfume. Following the success of the perfume, other products were launched, including lipstick, lotion, and compact powder. The lipstick had Mary Marquet, an emblematic figure of the Comédie Française and French cinema, as its ambassador in France. The perfume was distributed in major American department stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue in New York City and Bullock's Wilshire in Los Angeles.

Offenthal also became a major sponsor of the publication Comoedia, offering its bags as prizes at galas and ceremonies. Albert Offenthal extended his passion for the entertainment world by financing his own theater, the Théâtre Ponthieu, located on Rue Ponthieu and coupled with the Bar-Restaurant Napoléon, just before the 1929 crash.

In parallel with these successes related to their product line development, the brand's physical presence intensified with the opening of its flagship store, located above the famous Lido cabaret in Paris. This prime location, situated in Les Arcades des Champs-Elysées, increased Offenthal's visibility.[5]

As Offenthal's reputation grew, the brand expanded its footprint by opening stores on Rue de la Paix and Avenue de Friedland, strategically located in the heart of Paris' luxury districts.

The workshops and offices also grew and moved from Rue des Francs-Bourgeois to 16 Rue Rambuteau, 109 Rue de Turenne, and 6 Rue de Bretagne, still in the heart of the Marais.

III. Post-WWII Renaissance (1945-1980s)

After World War II and the loss of the four Offenthal brothers (Adolphe, Louis, Albert, and Jacques) as well as their sons and nephews (Léon, Marcel, and Robert), who perished in Auschwitz[6], Lucienne Offenthal, Suzanne Offenthal, and Joseph Silberstein, son of Rosa Offenthal, emerged as pillars of strength and resilience. Despite their workshops and stores being destroyed, looted, or confiscated, and their husbands and nephews never returning from the concentration camps, they managed to revive the brand by taking the reins of the company.

Offenthal's creations were regularly featured in the magazine L'Officiel de la Couture et de la Mode from the early 1950s to the early 1970s, photographed by Philippe Pottier[7] and the Séeberger brothers. Hundreds of photographs documented this leatherworking excellence over the years.

International Herald Tribune Nov 1971

Lucienne Offenthal's boutique, opened by the late Robert Offenthal in 1935 at 24 Rue de la Paix, near the Opéra Garnier and Place Vendôme, enjoyed great success and was regularly mentioned in international Paris guides[8] as a reference for French leather goods.

IV. Animal protection (1966-.)

Maud Offenthal, daughter of Jacques and Suzanne Offenthal, owned the last Offenthal store, located at 47 Avenue de Friedland, opposite the Arc de Triomphe, until her retirement in 2000. In addition to showcasing the quality and French craftsmanship of the Offenthal brand, Maud Offenthal committed herself to animal welfare[9].

Since 1966, four years after Brigitte Bardot's initial actions, she has supported and financed hundreds of associations through numerous donations and an unlimited personal commitment.

As the daughter of the late Jacques and Suzanne Offenthal, she dedicated her life to preserving both French artisanal craftsmanship and biodiversity and life, causes that were not widely popular in the late 20th century.

  1. ^ Gh (2018-02-08). "Cleopatra's Boudoir: Ce Soir ou Jamais by Parfums Offenthal c1927". Cleopatra's Boudoir. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  2. ^ Sophia (2016-08-29). Jill Howard in gray cotton Prince of Wales check two-piece, featuring white collar, buttons and cuffs with tie-belt emphasizing the waist over pleated skirt by Pierre Balmain, handbag by Lucienne Offenthal, photo by Pottier, 1955. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  3. ^ "Le Courrier : anciennement Guide du commerce et Courrier des hôtels : journal quotidien : feuille officielle d'annonces légales et judiciaires". Gallica (in French). 1913-10-04. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  4. ^ Gh (2018-02-08). "Cleopatra's Boudoir: Ce Soir ou Jamais by Parfums Offenthal c1927". Cleopatra's Boudoir. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  5. ^ "Le Cri du jour : hebdomadaire financier et politique". Gallica (in French). 1933-09-16. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  6. ^ "Holocaust Survivors and Victims Database -- Search for Names Results". www.ushmm.org. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  7. ^ Sophia (2015-08-18). Simone in ivory wool coat double-breasted and collarless by Pierre Cardin, croc handbag by Lucien Offenthal, photo by Pottier, 1958. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  8. ^ Fodor's Europe. D. McKay. 1980. ISBN 978-0-340-26033-3. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  9. ^ "Loire. Le combat d'une militante pour racheter la vache qui s'est échappée de l'abattoir de Feurs". actu.fr (in French). 2021-08-06. Retrieved 2024-07-08.

[[Category:Luxury brands]] [[Category:Paris]] [[Category:Craftsmanship]] [[Category:Leather goods]]