Talk:Spray foam

split/merge

This article's content about spray foam as a building insulation is already discussed in spray foams (insulation). Jim Derby (talk) 03:09, 30 December 2013 (UTC)

There is a lot of cross-over between the two, but this material's use as a packaging material - not an insulation material - gives merit to keeping this article separate. This article could use "see also" link to the insulation article. Architectsea (talk) 21:33, 16 January 2014 (UTC)

Reads like an advertizement

this entire section should be removed: "Polyurethane Foam provides a complete, seamless building envelope, creating a more comfortable indoor environment for the life of your home.

To avoid the expense re-roofing a house that is simply suffering from nail fatigue, and to obtain optimum insulation, an 85mm layer of polyurethane foam can be sprayed onto the underside of the slates or tiles of a pitched roof. This stabilises and weatherproofs the roof by fixing the nails, battens and roofing felt. As the foam is a superior insulant, coupled with just 100mm of insulation at joist level, your roof will also meet the stringent thermal performance standards required for a new home. A typical roof can be insulated using the polyurethane treatment for around half the cost of re-roofing.

The insulation at eaves level will leave your loft area comfortable for use and free from condensation. By installing the insulation at rafter level, it keeps the loft void warmer and prevents condensation build-up, which can otherwise occur when increasing insulation at ceiling level. The warmer, drier, cleaner roof space eliminates the risk of pipes and tanks freezing." — Preceding unsigned comment added by 24.19.248.88 (talk) 01:46, 30 July 2017 (UTC)

Physical health hazard.

Should be mentioned in the safety section the fact that polyurethane foam once it begins hardening on skin etc can only be scraped off mechanically, it cannot be washed. B137 (talk) 00:54, 17 September 2021 (UTC)

New information on eco-friendly spray foam insulation needed

This article is limited in its coverage of the new generation eco-friendly spray foam insulation available. Curl74 (talk) 13:09, 3 May 2023 (UTC)

I am a Connected Contributor but not sure how to add the correct template here as required? Curl74 (talk) 13:31, 3 May 2023 (UTC)

Avoid Spray Foam

What was impressed on me when I had my Home Energy Audit was that Air Infiltration is the prime suspect when it comes to money spent keeping warm. This was further reinforced by visiting the D.O.E website. What this means for you, is your money is best spent on plugging up the leaks, not on more insulation, assuming that back in the ‘70’s your home was brought up to date with blown in cellulose and those old leaky windows were replaced. If that wasn’t done, now would be a good time to get it done due to the revived incentives under the Inflation Reduction Act. As for the new foam insulation, you would be better off if you just gave it a pass. Urethane Foam is essentially Gorilla Glue and just as hard to remove and every bit as flammable. Contrast this with blown in cellulose and fiberglass which are definitely not any of those things. Urethane Foam is one big pain to remove, you can’t just roll it up or vacuum it out, and you definitely do not want it on wiring, piping, or ductwork. In fact there are building codes that address just that.

Plugging up the leaks is pretty easy, the only real tools you need are your hands. You feel along on a cold windy day and every leak is very evident. More stubborn or less obvious leaks will be found with your free Home Energy Audit available through your utility.

I have found that the rubbery foam a lot of electronics come in cuts easily, is very stuffable, and is clean to work with. Top off the foam plugs with a smear of water clean up latex/silicone caulk and it’s bye bye leaks. You’ll be amazed at the difference.

Back to spray foam, the key to success with it is the same as a good paint job, PREP IS EVERYTHING. Spraying foam over air leaks is not useful, something always gets missed. Seal the leaks first. If the company you hired isn’t doing this on your job they are wasting your money and leaving you with a headache once that foam has turned into a rock. And if you think they are going to dig out badly done foam because you still feel drafts later, you’re deluding yourself, they’re just going to spray more foam on top of the problem. The other big issue is dirt, just like painting over dirt, spraying over it ends up with a problem with adhesion and drafts.

In conclusion, If you do decide to go with foam, watch them like a hawk, make sure before they start spraying that the air leaks are plugged, the area to be done is properly vacuumed, and the continuous vapor barrier (if it’s a dirt floor) is fitted neatly, sealed to the wall with double lines of Butyl caulk at the base and at its termination roughly 6” from the sill plate. If they aren’t doing it right, the best time to stop them is before the spraying starts. If they balk, throw them out. 24.101.215.69 (talk) 23:24, 21 March 2024 (UTC)