Takashi Ozaki
Takashi Ozaki (尾崎隆, Ozaki Takashi, September 9, 1952 – May 12, 2011) was a Japanese mountaineer. He is known for having made the first ascent of Mount Everest's north face and the first ascent of Myanmar's Hkakabo Razi.
Biography
[edit]Ozaki was born in Kameyama in Japan's Mie Prefecture.
On May 10, 1980, Ozaki, with Tsuneo Shigehiro, made the first full ascent of the north face of Mount Everest.[1] Later, in 1983, he made a December ascent of Everest.[2]
In 1996, Ozaki made the first ascent of Myanmar's remote Hkakabo Razi with Myanmar climber Niyma Gyaltsen.[3]
Ozaki died while descending Everest's south side at around 8,600 meters.[4] He had to abort his ascent when he developed medical problems, then died during his attempt to summit Mount Everest on May 12, 2011.[4]
Personal life
[edit]Takashi Ozaki was married to Frederique Gely-Ozaki, who also climbed mountains with him.[3] He had two children, daughter Sara and son Makato Ozaki.[3]
Notable ascents
[edit]Summits:[4]
- Everest (twice: 1980 and 1983)
- Broad Peak
- Manaslu
- Lhotse
- Kangchenjunga
- Makalu
- Dhaulagiri
- Island Peak
- Hkakabo Razi[3]
See also
[edit]- List of people who died climbing Mount Everest
- List of Mount Everest summiters by number of times to the summit
- List of 20th-century summiters of Mount Everest
References
[edit]- ^ Messner, Reinhold (1989). The Crystal Horizon: Everest-The First Solo Ascent. Mountaineers Books. p. 90. ISBN 9780898865745.
- ^ "EverestHistory.com: Takashi Ozaki". Retrieved 2015-08-16.
- ^ a b c d Brookes, Stephen (1996-10-08). "First Ascent: Ozaki Summits Burma's Highest Peak".
- ^ a b c "The butterfly collector is gone: Takashi Ozaki claimed by Everest". Retrieved 2015-08-15.
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