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Praqpa Kangri

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Praqpa Kangri – Praqpa Ri
Praqpa Kangri is just left of the middle of the photo
Highest point
Elevation7,134 m (23,406 ft)
Prominence233 m (764 ft)
ListingSkil Brum
Coordinates35°49′46″N 76°25′59″E / 35.829471°N 76.433030°E / 35.829471; 76.433030
Geography
Map
LocationGilgit-Baltistan (Pakistan)
Parent rangeBaltoro Muztagh
Climbing
First ascentUnclimbed

Praqpa Kangri (or Praqpa Ri) is a mountain in Pakistan's Karakoram range in the territory of Gilgit-Baltistan. Praqpa Kangri has an altitude of 7,134 m (some sources put the summit at 7,156 m). The main summit is located 2.33 km south of Skil Brum. The peak's prominence is 668 m. The Savoia glacier flows from the east flank of the mountain towards the Godwin-Austen-Glacier. The Biango Glacier lies to the west of the peak, as does eight-thousanders K2 and Broad Peak.[1]

It is considered one of the world's highest unclimbed mountains, with no successful recorded summits on the main peak as of 2024.

In 2016, Canadian climber Nancy Hansen and German climber Ralf Dujmovits made the first recorded ascent attempt on Praqpa Ri.[2] Hansen received the Hiding in Plain Sight: Unclimbed Summits in the Karakorum award from the Shipton-Tilman Grant program to support the climb.[3] The pair spent two months attempting to climb the peak,[4] ultimately reaching 6,300 meters before turning back due to poor snow conditions.[5]

In 2021, Martin Sieberer and Simon Messner made a second attempt to climb Praqpa Ri.[6] They were prevented from the summit after reaching 6,000 twice, as the higher sections were impassable due to snow conditions.[1][7] After returning from the expedition, Messner recounted the steepness of the mountain's slopes are prone to avalanches, requiring good weather to climb safely. He suggested that the increasing risk of climate change meant the likelihood of a successful summit on Praqpa Ri is growing increasingly rare.[8]

Praqpa Kangri North
Map
Highest point
Elevation7,096 m (23,281 ft)
Prominence136 m (446 ft)
Parent peakPraqpa Kangri
Coordinates35°49′59″N 76°25′33″E / 35.83306°N 76.42583°E / 35.83306; 76.42583
Geography
LocationGilgit-Baltistan
Climbing
First ascentUnclimbed

Subsidiary peaks

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The mountain has three high points: the main summit, the north summit, and the south summit.

The north summit lies 790 m northwest of the main summit, rising 7,096 m in elevation.[9] The prominence between the main peak and this subsidiary peak is 136 m.

Praqpa Kangri South
Map
Highest point
Elevation7,089 m (23,258 ft)
Prominence129 m (423 ft)
Geography
LocationGilgit-Baltistan
Climbing
First ascent16 July 2017 by Andres Bosch and Armando Montero
Easiest routeSoutheast

The south summit is located 830 m south-southeast of the main summit, reaching a height of 7,089 m with a col height of 129 m.[10] In 2017, a Chilean expedition team consisting of Andres Bosch, Alejandro Mora and Armando Montero attempted Praqpa Ri's south peak. On 16 July, Andres Bosch and Armando Montero reached the summit via the Southeast ridge after a 9-day expedition, establishing the route Praqpa Ri South Ridge TD+, 1500 m, M3, 50-90°.[11]

References

[edit]
  1. ^ a b "Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer attempt Praqpa Ri in the Karakorum". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 24 July 2024.
  2. ^ gripped (16 May 2016). "Nancy Hansen and Ralf Dujmovits Prepare for Unclimbed 7,000-metre Karakorum Peaks". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 24 July 2024.
  3. ^ gripped (16 May 2016). "Canadians Receive 2016 Shipton-Tilman Award for Big Objectives". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 24 July 2024.
  4. ^ "AAC Publications - Gasherbrum VI, Southwest Ridge, Attempt; Praqpa Ri, East-Southeast Ridge, Attempt". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 24 July 2024.
  5. ^ Nestler, Stefan (15 July 2016). "Praqpa Ri remains unclimbed too". Deutsche Welle. Retrieved 24 July 2024.
  6. ^ Benavides, Angela (3 September 2021). "Messner, Marin Stymied: No Luck for Last Climbers in the Karakorum » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 24 July 2024.
  7. ^ "AAC Publications - Praqpa Ri Central, Attempts". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 24 July 2024.
  8. ^ Nestler, Stefan (22 September 2021). "Simon Messner on climate change: "We can no longer look away!"". Adventure Mountain. Retrieved 24 July 2024.
  9. ^ "Praqpa Kangri North - Peakbagger.com". www.peakbagger.com. Retrieved 24 July 2024.
  10. ^ "Praqpa Kangri South - Peakbagger.com". www.peakbagger.com. Retrieved 24 July 2024.
  11. ^ "Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 24 July 2024.
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