Pakpattan
Pakpattan Sharif
پاکپتّن شریف | |
|---|---|
 The highly-revered Shrine of Baba Farid is located in Pakpattan | |
  Pakpattan Sharif Location in Pakistan  Pakpattan Sharif Pakpattan Sharif (Pakistan) | |
| Coordinates: 30°20′39″N 73°23′2″E / 30.34417°N 73.38389°E | |
| Country |  Pakistan |
| Province |  Punjab |
| District | Pakpattan |
| Old Name | Ajodhan |
| Elevation | 156 m (512 ft) |
| Population | |
| • City | 176,693 |
| • Rank | 48th, Pakistan |
| Demonym | Pakpattni |
| Time zone | UTC+5 (PST) |
| Postal code | 57400 |
| Dialling code | 0457[2] |
Pakpattan (Punjabi and Urdu: پاکپتّن), often referred to as Pākpattan Sharīf ( پاکپتّن شریف; "Noble Pakpattan"), is a city in the Pakistani province of Punjab, serving as the headquarters of the eponymous Pakpattan district. It is the 48th largest city in Pakistan by population according to the 2017 census. Pakpattan is the seat of the Sufi Chisti order in Pakistan,[3] and a major pilgrimage destination on account of the Shrine of Baba Farid, a renowned Punjabi poet and Sufi saint. The annual urs fair in his honour draws an estimated 2 million visitors to the town.[4]
Etymology
[edit]Pakpattan was known as Ajodhan (Hindi अजोधन) until the 16th century.[5] The city now derives its name from the combination of two Punjabi words, Pak and Pattan, meaning "pure," and "dock" respectively, which reference a ferry across the Sutlej River that was popular with pilgrims to the Shrine of Baba Farid, and represented a metaphorical journey of salvation across the river in a boat piloted by the saint's spirit.[6]
History
[edit]Early
[edit]Pakpattan was founded as a village by the original Hindu name of Ajodhan (Hindi अजोधन).[7] Ajodhan was the location of a ferry service across the Sutlej river that rendered it an important part of the ancient trade routes connecting Multan to Delhi.[5] Given its position on the flat plains of Punjab, Ajodhan was vulnerable to waves of invasions from Central Asia that began in the late 10th century.[5] It was captured by Sebüktegin in 977–78 CE and by Ibrahim Ghaznavi in 1079–80.[8]
Medieval
[edit]Turkish settlers also arrived in the region as a result of pressures from the expanding Mongol Empire,[5] and so Ajodhan already had a mosque and Muslim community by the time of the arrival of Baba Farid,[5] who migrated to the town from his native village of Kothewal near Multan around 1195. Despite his presence, Ajodhan remained a small town until after his death,[9] although it was prosperous given its position on trade routes.[10]
Baba Farid's establishment of a Jama Khana, or convent, in the town where his devotees would gather for religious instruction is seen as a process of the region's shift away from a Hindu orientation to a Muslim one.[5] Large masses of the town's citizenry were noted to gather at the shrine daily in hopes of securing written blessings and amulets from the convent.[5]
Upon Baba Farid's death in 1265, a shrine was constructed that eventually contained a mosque, langar, and several other related buildings.[5] The shrine was among the first Islamic holy sites in South Asia.[5] The shrine later served to elevate the town as a centre of pilgrimage within the wider Islamic world.[11] In keeping with Sufi tradition in Punjab, the shrine maintains influence over smaller shrines throughout the region around Pakpattan that are dedicated to specific events in Baba Farid's life.[12] These secondary shrines form a wilayat, or a "spiritual territory" of the Pakpattan shrine.[12]
The Arab explorer Ibn Battuta visited the town in 1334, and paid obeisance at its shrine.[5] The town was besieged by Shaikha Khokhar, in 1394.[13] Tamerlane visited Pakpattan's shrine in 1398 in order to pray for increased strength,[14] and spared the town's inhabitants that had not fled his advance, out of respect for the shrine of the saint Baba Farid.[13][15] Khizr Khan defeated the armies of Firuz Shah Tughlaq of the Delhi Sultanate in battles outside of Pakpattan between 1401 and 1405.[13]
Mughal
[edit]The town continued to grow as the reputation and influence of the Baba Farid shrine spread, but was also bolstered by its privileged position along the Multan to Delhi trade route.[16] The shrine's importance began to outweigh that of Ajodhan itself, and the town was subsequently renamed "Pakpattan" in honor of a ferry service over the Sutlej River.[6] The founder of Sikhism, Guru Nanak, visited the town in the early 1500s to collect compositions of Baba Farid's poetry.[17]
The shrine was extended royal patronage from the Mughal court, while Emperor Shah Jahan in 1692 bestowed royal support for the shrine's Diwan chief and descendants of Baba Farid, who eventually formed a class of landowners known as the Chistis. The shrine and Chistis were defended by an army of devotees drawn from local Jat clans.[5]
Pakpattan state (1692–1810)
[edit]Following the disintegration of the Mughal Empire, the shrine's Diwan was able to forge a political independent state centered on Pakpattan.[5] In 1757, the territory of the Pakpattan state was extended across the Sutlej River after the shrine's head raised an army against the Raja of Bikaner.[5] The shrine's army was able to repel a 1776 attack by the Sikh Nakai Misl state, resulting in the death of the Nakai leader, Heera Singh Sandhu.[5]
Sikh rule
[edit]Maharaja Ranjit Singh of the Sikh Empire seized the city in 1810, removing the political autonomy of the Baba Farid shrine's chief.[5] He did, however, bestow the shrine with an annual nazrana allowance of 9,000 rupees, and granted tracts of land to his descendants.[18] By patronizing the shrine, Ranjit Singh increased his legitimacy of a non-Muslim ruler, and helped spread his influence through the network of smaller shrine through the Pakpattan shrine's spiritual wilayat territory.[18]
British rule
[edit]Following the establishment of British rule in Punjab after defeating the Sikh Empire, Pakpattan in 1849 was made district headquarters, before it was shifted in 1852, and finally to Montgomery (now Sahiwal) in 1856.[19] The Pakpattan Municipal Council was established in 1868,[19] and the population in 1901 was 6,192. Income in the era chiefly derived from transit fees.[8]
Between the 1890s and 1920s, the British laid a vast network of canals in region around Pakpattan, and throughout much of central and southern Punjab province,[20] leading to the establishment of dozens of new villages around Pakpattan. In 1910, the Lodhran–Khanewal Branch Line was laid, making Pakpattan an important stop before the railway was dismantled and shipped to Iraq.[19] In the 1940s, Pakpattan became a centre for Muslim League politics, as the shrine granted the League privileges to address crows at the urs fair in 1945 - a favour not granted to pro-Unionist parties.[21] The shrine's sajjada nasheen caretakers further refused to sign an anti-Partition manifesto brought to them by pro-Unionists.[21]
Partition (1947)
[edit]
Just prior to the partition of 1947, the city's population included a substantial number of Hindus and Sikhs.[22][23] Some well-known local residents at the time included Bhasheshar Nath (a major landowner), Dr. Ram Nath (MBBS doctor), and Lala Ganpat Rai Dhawan (local businessman and patwari). The Hindus of the city controlled much of the commerce and banking.[22]
On August 15, 1947, a major communal clash was supposed to take place but the Hindus left Pakpattan a few days later through the Sulemanki route.[22] On August 23 and 24, looting had begun, and more of city's Hindus and Sikhs left the next day.[22] Overall, although there were some deaths, the numbers were relatively low compared to other cities in Punjab.[22] However, during that summer, a train departing from Pakpattan Railway Station carrying Hindus and Sikhs was attacked shortly after leaving, resulting in all the passengers being slaughtered by a Muslim mob.[24]
The city's Hindu and Sikh population fled to various areas in India (notably Fazilka) and was replaced by Muslim migrants from India (notably from towns such as Hoshiarpur and Fazilka).
The stories of partition as told by the city's elderly residents who lived through the partition, have been extensively documented by Ahmad Naeem Chishti, in the social media page Partition Diary.[25]
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Modern
[edit]Pakpattan's demography was radically altered by the Partition of British Raj, with the vast majority of its Sikh and Hindu residents migrating to India. Several Chisti scholars and notable families also settled in the city, having fled from regions that were allocated to India. Pakpattan thus increased in importance as a religious centre, and witnessed the development of pir-muridi shrine culture.[26] The influence of the shrine's caretakers grew as Chistis and their devotees congregated in the city to such a degree that the shrine caretakers are regarded as "kingmakers" for local and regional politics.[26] Pakpattan's shrine continued to grow in influence as Pakistani Muslims found it increasingly difficult to visit other Chisti shrines that now lay in India,[26] while Sikhs in India commemorate Baba Farid's urs in absentia at Amritsar.[27] Pakpattan continues to be a major pilgrimage centre, drawing up to 2 million annual visitors its large urs festival.[4]
Geography
[edit]Pakpattan is located about 205 km from Multan.[28] Pakpattan is located roughly 40 kilometres (25 mi) from the border with India, and 184 kilometres (114 mi) by road southwest of Lahore.[29] The district is bounded to the northwest by Sahiwal District, to the north by Okara District, to the southeast by the Sutlej River and Bahawalnagar District, and to the southwest by Vehari District.
Demographics
[edit]
According to the 1998 Pakistan Census, the population of Pakpattan city was recorded as 109,033. As per 2017 Census of Pakistan, the population of city was recorded as 176,693 with an increase of 62.05% in just 19 years.[30]
Language
[edit]Punjabi is the native spoken language but Urdu is also widely understood and spoken. Haryanvi also called Rangari is spoken among Ranghars . Meo have their own language which is called Mewati.
Famous Food
[edit]Tosha is a special sweet which was produced first in Pakpattan.[31] It is also sold in India as a delicacy originally made in Pakpattan.[32]
Dhakki (old city) area
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Pakpattan's historic Dhakki—meaning mound, small hill, or high place—sits at an elevated level as the original heart of the city, which later expanded outward.[33][23] This elevated neighborhood, which first housed the earliest residents of Ajodhan (Pakpattan), features narrow, winding streets that once thrived as a bustling hub of diverse communities. Steeped in thousands of years of history, historically, Dhakki was fortified with six large gates that closed at night to protect the inhabitants, but today, only a few of these ancient gates still stand, offering a glimpse into the past.[23] Mohri Gate, believed to be over 700 years old, stands today, named for its "Mohri," or opening, through which one could see. It was also known as "Handa Walla" gate due to the presence of Handa families living nearby, further linking the gate to the community it once served.
The Dhakki area also holds significant architectural remnants from various eras. A notable remnant in this area is part of the wall of the 'Kacha Burj,' a defensive fort built by Sher Shah Suri; after conquering the city in 1541, Suri tasked his general, Haibat Khan, with constructing the fort to guard against potential invaders.[33][34] This fortification and the Dhakki’s layout reflect the strategic importance of Pakpattan as a settlement and its role in defending against invasions throughout history. Given that the Dhakki area is home to the renowned Shrine of Baba Farid, numerous historical figures have journeyed here over the centuries as they paid homage to the shrine.
Before the 1947 partition, Dhakki was primarily home to Hindu families, particularly Khatris, including the Dhawan, Handa, and Chopra families. Today, several pre-partition houses still stand in Dhakki, preserving the history of those times.
Today, as visitors wander through Dhakki, the surviving gates, narrow passageways, and historic homes echo Pakpattan’s rich legacy, connecting the past to the present in an area that remains a cultural and historical landmark of the city.
Other parts of city
[edit]At the base of Dhakki lies Smadhan Walla Mohalla, once home to numerous Hindu "smadhs" (memorial sites). The site now hosts Govt. Faridia Graduate College, Pakpattan, where iconic and historic smadhs once stood before partition. Remnants of a pond with deep stairs also remain intact. The old havelis of Hindus and Sikhs, such as Basheshar Nath, Boota Ram, and Dr. Ram Nath, serve as a reminder of the diverse pre-partition communities that coexisted in this ancient city.
The iconic railway station building, surrounded by colonial-era structures like officers' quarters, a hospital, and a rest house, echoes the colonial heritage of the area.
Shrine of Baba Farid
[edit]The Shrine of Baba Farid is one of Pakistan's most revered shrines. Built in the town once known in medieval times as Ajodhan, the shrine became so well-known that the area was renamed "Pakpattan," meaning "Holy Ferry," in reference to a river crossing made by pilgrims to reach the shrine.[35] The shrine has since been a key factor shaping Pakpattan's economy, and the city's politics. [35]
Other Shrines in Pakpatan
[edit]- Darbar Hazrat Khawaja Aziz Makki Sarkar [36]
- Khawaja Amoor ul Hasan
References
[edit]- ^ "PAKISTAN: Provinces and Major Cities". PAKISTAN: Provinces and Major Cities. citypopulation.de. Retrieved 4 May 2020.
- ^ "National Dialing Codes". Pakistan Telecommunication Company Limited. Retrieved 28 August 2014.
- ^ "Between pirs and politicians | TNS - The News on Sunday". tns.thenews.com.pk. Archived from the original on 2019-05-27. Retrieved 2018-01-22.
- ^ a b "Spiritual ecstasy: Devotees throng Baba Farid's urs in Pakpattan - The Express Tribune". The Express Tribune. 2014-10-23. Retrieved 2018-01-22.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o Richard M. Eaton (1984). Metcalf, Barbara Daly (ed.). Moral Conduct and Authority: The Place of Adab in South Asian Islam. University of California Press. ISBN 9780520046603. Retrieved 29 August 2017.
- ^ a b Meri, Josef (2005). Medieval Islamic Civilization: An Encyclopedia. Routledge. ISBN 9781135455965. Retrieved 29 August 2017.
- ^ Suvorova, Anna; Suvorova, Professor of Indo-Islamic Culture and Head of Department of Asian Literatures Anna (22 July 2004). Muslim Saints of South Asia: The Eleventh to Fifteenth Centuries. Routledge. ISBN 9781134370061. Retrieved 20 April 2017.
- ^ a b Pakpattan - Imperial Gazetteer of India, v. 19, p. 332
- ^ Panjab University Research Bulletin: Arts. The University. 1975.
- ^ Talbot, Ian (2013-12-16). Khizr Tiwana, the Punjab Unionist Party and the Partition of India. Routledge. ISBN 9781136790362.
- ^ Rozehnal, R. (2016-04-30). Islamic Sufism Unbound: Politics and Piety in Twenty-First Century Pakistan. Springer. ISBN 9780230605725.
- ^ a b Singh, Rishi (2015). State Formation and the Establishment of Non-Muslim Hegemony: Post-Mughal 19th-century Punjab. SAGE India. ISBN 9789351505044. Retrieved 29 August 2017.
- ^ a b c Imperial gazetteer of India: provincial series. Supt. of Govt. Print. 1908.
- ^ Hamadani, Agha Hussain (1986). The Frontier Policy of the Delhi Sultans. Atlantic Publishers & Distri.
- ^ Metcalf, Barbara Daly (1984). Moral Conduct and Authority: The Place of Adab in South Asian Islam. University of California Press. ISBN 9780520046603.
- ^ Ali, M. Athar (2006). Mughal India: Studies in Polity, Ideas, Society, and Culture. Oxford University Press. ISBN 9780195648607.
- ^ Singh, Pashaura (2002-12-27). The Bhagats of the Guru Granth Sahib: Sikh Self-Definition and the Bhagat Bani. Oxford University Press. ISBN 9780199087723.
- ^ a b Singh, Rishi (2015-04-23). State Formation and the Establishment of Non-Muslim Hegemony: Post-Mughal 19th-century Punjab. SAGE Publications India. ISBN 9789351505044.
- ^ a b c Nadiem, Ihsan H. (2005). Punjab: land, history, people. al-Faisal Nashran. ISBN 9789695032831.
- ^ Glover, William J. (2008). Making Lahore Modern: Constructing and Imagining a Colonial City. U of Minnesota Press. ISBN 9781452913384.
- ^ a b Talbot, Ian (2013-12-16). Khizr Tiwana, the Punjab Unionist Party and the Partition of India. Routledge. ISBN 9781136790362.
- ^ a b c d e Ahmed, Ishtiaq (2022). The Punjab Bloodied, Partitioned and Cleansed: Unravelling the 1947 Tragedy through Secret British Reports and First-Person Accounts. India: Rupa Publ iCat Ions India. pp. 510–511. ISBN 978-9355205780.
- ^ a b c "Our History Old City". Retrieved December 3, 2023.
- ^ Train tragedy Pakpattan 1947 #punjab. Retrieved 2024-05-19 – via www.youtube.com.
- ^ Chishti, Ahmad (August 11, 2022). "Partition Diary – a longing for revisiting hometown". The Dawn. Retrieved December 3, 2023.
- ^ a b c Boivin, Michel; Delage, Remy (2015-12-22). Devotional Islam in Contemporary South Asia: Shrines, Journeys and Wanderers. Routledge. ISBN 9781317380009.
- ^ "Celebrating Urs in Amritsar". The Tribune.
- ^ "Pakpattan". Archived from the original on 2017-10-29. Retrieved 2017-11-28.
- ^ Maps (Map). Google Maps.
- ^ "Pakistan: Provinces and Major Cities - Population Statistics, Maps, Charts, Weather and Web Information". www.citypopulation.de.
- ^ "About Pakpattan". Pakpattan Social Media.
- ^ "Tosha from Pakpattan". punjabtourism.gov.in.
- ^ a b Chishti, Ahmad (December 3, 2023). "Pakpattan Dhakki Ancient & Historical City of Punjab". YouTube. Retrieved December 3, 2023.
- ^ "Historical places in Pakpattan Kacha Burj Dhaki". YouTube. December 3, 2023. Retrieved December 3, 2023.
- ^ a b Mubeen, Muhammad (2015). Delage, Remy; Boivin, Michel (eds.). Devotional Islam in Contemporary South Asia: Shrines, Journeys and Wanderers. Routledge. ISBN 978-1317379997.
- ^ "Pakpattan Sharif (Pakistan): History of Pakpattan". 12 December 2009.
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