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Ormonde Jayne

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Ormonde Jayne
Named afterFounder Linda Pilkinton's middle name and the address of a former home.
Formation2000; 24 years ago (2000)
FounderLinda Pilkington
Founded atMayfair, London
Location
  • London, England, United Kingdom
ProductsPerfumes, candles, bath and body products
Revenue (2018)
£5.1 million
Websiteormondejayne.com

Ormonde Jayne is a London-based niche perfume house founded by Linda Pilkington in 2000. Begun as a line of scented candles, the house now makes perfumes as well. The perfumes are created by Pilkington and Geza Schoen.

Background and founding

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Ormonde Jayne founder Linda Pilkington grew up in a village in Cheshire, England, where she and her sisters often made beeswax candles, selling them to neighbors. She later lived in Brazil and Argentina, where she became an ice cream vendor, before moving to London in 1992.[1]

Her first commission came from a friend who knew of her fondness for making candles and asked her to create a set for the launch of his Chanel fine jewellery boutique. Thinking she might like to pursue the enterprise further, Pilkington invested £1000 in the business and next went to France to study candle-making. The brand grew rapidly, eventually exceeding Pilkington's capacity to keep up with demand. In 2001 she left the wholesale market and opened her own retail shop instead.[2] She began web sales in 2002, accommodating international customers.[3]

The brand's name derives from Pilkington's middle name and the address of a former family home.[4] The business is wholly owned by Pilkington and her husband, a banker.[2]

Products

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Ormonde Jayne has since grown from candles to include perfumes, other home scents like reed diffusers, and bath and body products,[5] though the bath and body products were later discontinued. Perfumer Geza Schoen has worked with Pilkington on perfumes for the line.[6] Reviewing the line in 2009, New York Times perfume critic Chandler Burr wrote, "The Ormonde Jayne collection has managed to bottle mesmerizing strangeness that stays, just barely at times, this side of unwearable art scents."[6]

In Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez’s Perfumes: The Guide, the line’s titular fragrances Ormonde Man and Ormonde Woman both received five-star reviews.[7] Both fragrances are based on hemlock; Ormonde Man also has notes of juniper berries and oud.[8][9][10] Turin and Sanchez also included the pair in their book of 100 “classics” in perfumery.[11]

Other notable Ormonde Jayne fragrances include Orris Noir, based on purple-black iris, pink pepper and pimento berries;[12] Champaca, an orange wildflower from India mixed with green tea, basmati rice and myrrh;[13][14] Sampaquita, named after a species of jasmine that is also the national flower of the Philippines;[13] Ta’if, a rose and saffron fragrance named for the city in Saudi Arabia where the rose ingredient is grown;[15][13] Tolu, a resin mixed with rose;[13][16] Vanille d’Iris, vanilla and iris as well as carrot seed, coriander seed, bergamot and musk;[17] Montabaco, with orange absolute, tobacco and leather;[18] [19] and Nawab of Oudh, a blend of ambers, oud and musk.[20]

Pilkington also develops Ormonde Jayne fragrances for individual clients, in a six-month process.[21]

Expansion

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Eventually Pilkington decided to expand the business again, in part necessitated by the rising rent at her shop in Mayfair.[2] She signed a deal with Saks Fifth Avenue to sell her fragrances in their New York City store, launching in May 2018.[22] Pilkington estimates 2018 sales at £5.1 million.[2]

See also

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References

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  1. ^ "Linda Pilkington: the sweet smell of scented-candle success". MoneyWeek. 2018-05-11. Archived from the original on 2018-06-12. Retrieved 2018-06-02.
  2. ^ a b c d Bourke, Joanna (30 April 2018). "Entrepreneurs: Sweet smell of success for Ormonde Jayne founder". Evening Standard. Archived from the original on 8 May 2018. Retrieved 7 May 2018.
  3. ^ Soskin, David (2010-10-12). Net Profit: How to Succeed in Digital Business. John Wiley & Sons. ISBN 9780470971352. Archived from the original on 2021-02-15. Retrieved 2021-02-15.
  4. ^ Negri, Eleanora (June 14, 2015). "Ormonde Jayne, il "naso" delle star". Vanity Fair Italy (in Italian). Archived from the original on 2018-06-12. Retrieved 2018-06-02.
  5. ^ Shapeland, Kate (29 October 2010). "Enhancing skin illumination". Telegraph. Archived from the original on 2018-06-12. Retrieved 2018-06-02.
  6. ^ a b Burr, Chandler (2009-02-26). "Scent Notes | Ormonde Man by Ormonde Jayne". T Magazine. The New York Times. Archived from the original on 2018-06-12. Retrieved 2018-06-05.
  7. ^ Turin, Luca; Sanchez, Tania (2008-04-10). Perfumes: The A-Z Guide. Penguin. ISBN 9781440634130. Archived from the original on 2021-02-15. Retrieved 2021-02-15.
  8. ^ Foulkes, Nicholas (19 January 2016). "Boutique perfumery Ormonde Jayne dabbles in "a sort of sorcery"". Newsweek. Archived from the original on 9 May 2018. Retrieved 7 May 2018.
  9. ^ Puckrik, Katie (2014-03-31). "Men's fragrances: a woman's guide". The Telegraph. ISSN 0307-1235. Archived from the original on 2018-05-08. Retrieved 2018-05-07.
  10. ^ Dalal, Phorum (2018-03-23). "On the nose". The Hindu. ISSN 0971-751X. Archived from the original on 2021-02-15. Retrieved 2018-05-07.
  11. ^ Turin, Luca; Sanchez, Tania (2011-10-27). The Little Book of Perfumes: The Hundred Classics. Penguin. ISBN 9781101545331. Archived from the original on 2021-02-15. Retrieved 2021-02-15.
  12. ^ Punter, Jessica (9 February 2016). "What is Orris?". British GQ. Archived from the original on 8 May 2018. Retrieved 7 May 2018.
  13. ^ a b c d Forrest, Emma E (April 2, 2017). "Rare fragrances underpin UK firm's growth in the UAE". The National. Archived from the original on 8 May 2018. Retrieved 7 May 2018.
  14. ^ Lyttelton, Celia (2009). The Scent Trail: How One Woman's Quest for the Perfect Perfume Took Her Around the World. Penguin. ISBN 9780451226242. Archived from the original on 2021-02-15. Retrieved 2021-02-15.
  15. ^ Hamilton, Denise (February 7, 2015). "Girlie pink and darker red perfumes for Valentine's Day". Los Angeles Times. Archived from the original on 2018-06-12. Retrieved 2018-06-02.
  16. ^ Breton, Gabriella Le (2016-02-04). "Morocco Rose Festival: the land of red and pink". The Telegraph. ISSN 0307-1235. Archived from the original on 2018-05-08. Retrieved 2018-05-07.
  17. ^ Knight, India (2017-12-03). "Review: India Knight picks her five favourite perfumes". The Sunday Times. ISSN 0140-0460. Archived from the original on 2018-06-12. Retrieved 2018-06-06.
  18. ^ Punter, Jessica (September 21, 2015). "What is an 'absolute' fragrance?". British GQ. Archived from the original on 2018-05-08. Retrieved 2018-05-07.
  19. ^ "Men's Grooming: What Beauty & Skincare Products To Buy Him". Marie Claire. 2017-08-14. Archived from the original on 2018-06-01. Retrieved 2018-06-02.
  20. ^ Gunavardhana, Emma (11 April 2018). "How to apply the right amount of perfume". The Telegraph. Archived from the original on 8 May 2018. Retrieved 7 May 2018.
  21. ^ Street, Chloe (May 17, 2018). "Where to get a bespoke fragrance made in London". Evening Standard. Archived from the original on 2018-06-14. Retrieved 2018-06-02.
  22. ^ Conti, Samantha (20 March 2018). "Experience Matters: London's Ormonde Jayne Lets the Customer Create". WWD. Archived from the original on 8 May 2018. Retrieved 7 May 2018.
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