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Kazuya Hiraide

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Kazuya Hiraide
Full name平出和也 (Hiraide Kazuya)
Born(1979-05-25)May 25, 1979
Fujimi, Japan
DiedJuly 27, 2024(2024-07-27) (aged 45)
K2
Medal record
Ski mountaineering
Gold medal – first place 2009 Asian Championship Relay

Kazuya Hiraide (平出和也, Hiraide Kazuya, May 25, 1979 – July 27, 2024) was a Japanese ski mountaineer, Alpine climber, and professional mountain cameraman.[1] Hiraide has won the Piolet d'Or mountaineering award on four occasions.

Climbing career

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Hiraide became a serious mountain climber after joining a mountaineering club at his university. In 2001, he reached the eastern summit of Kula Kangri (7,381m) in Tibet. His list of accomplishments includes first ascents, reaching summits without oxygen, and skiing from mountain peaks. In 2009, he scaled the previously unclimbed southeastern wall of Kamet (7,756m) in India, and with his climbing partner Kei Taniguchi, became the first Japanese to receive the 17th Piolet d'Or Award, the "Academy Award" of mountaineering. He also won three other Piolet d'Or Awards with climbing partner Kenro Nakajima for their first ascent on an uncharted route with Shispare in 2017, Rakaposhi in 2019. and Terich Mir in 2023.[2][3] He also received the Japan Sports Award, sponsored by the Yomiuri Shimbun newspaper, in 2001 and 2009.

On July 28, 2024 it was reported that Hiraide fell when attempting an ascent of the western face of K2 together with Kenro Nakajima.[4] Two figures were spotted by a rescue helicopter which failed to land next to them and described them as "motionless".[5][6]

Selected results

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Ski mountaineering

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Mountain climbing

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  • 2001
    • Kula Kangri East Peak (7381m), Pakistan, first ascent
    • Cho Oyu (8201m) China, summit, ski down from top
  • 2003
    • Kunyang Chhish (7852m), Pakistan, first try, west face
  • 2004
    • Golden Peak (7027m), Pakistan, new route, north west ridge, summit
    • Lila Peak (6200m), Pakistan, new route, east face, summit
    • Kunlun Mustag (6355m), China, new route, summit
  • 2005
    • Mustag Ata (7564m), China, second ascent, east ridge, summit, ski down to west side
    • Shivling (6543m), India, new route, north face to west face, summit
  • 2007
    • Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, first try, north east face
  • 2008
    • Gasherbrum II (8035m), Pakistan, summit
    • Broad Peak (8047), Pakistan, summit
    • Kamet (7756m), India, new route, south east face, summit
  • 2009
    • Gasherbrum I (8068m), Pakistan, Summit
    • Gaurishankar (7134m), China, first try, east face
  • 2010
    • Ama Dablam (6856m), Nepal, first try, north west face
  • 2011
    • Everest (8848m), Nepal, south side, summit
    • Naimonanyi (7694m), China, new route, south west ridge, summit, south peak (7200m), first ascent, first try, south east face
  • 2012
    • Khan Tengri (7010m), Kazakh, north side, summit
    • Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, first try, south west face
  • 2013
    • Everest (8848m), Nepal, summit
    • Diran (7266m), Pakistan, west ridge, summit
    • Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, first try, south west face
  • 2014
    • Everest (8848m), Nepal, south side
    • Hkakabo Razi (5881m), Myanmar, first try, north ridge
  • 2015
    • Everest (8848m), China, north side
    • Api (7132m), Nepal, north side, summit
  • 2016
    • Everest (8848m), China, north side, summit
  • 2017
    • Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, new route, north east face
  • 2019
    • Rakaposhi (7788m), Pakistan, new route, south face
  • 2023
    • Tirich Mir (7708m), Pakistan, new route, north face

Awards

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  • 2008: Piolet d'Or, together with Kei Taniguchi (谷口ケイ, Taniguchi Kei) for the first ascent of the South-West face of Kamet (7756m, India) in alpine style
  • 2017: The 26th Piolet d'Or Award and The 12th Piolet d'Or Asia Award, together with Kenro Nakajima for the first ascent of the North-East face of Shispare (7611m, Pakistan) in alpine style.[11]
  • 2019: The 28th Piolet d'Or Award, together with Kenro Nakajima for the first ascent of the south face of Rakaposhi (7788m, Pakistan) in alpine style.[12]
  • 2024: The 32nd Piolet d'Or Award, together with Kenro Nakajima for the first ascent of Secret Line on the north face of Tirich Mir (7708m, Pakistan). [3]
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References

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  1. ^ "Kazuya Hiraide Back in Pakistan to Train For K2 West Face -- and Nail Some First Ascents » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. 2021-12-03. Retrieved 2022-08-04.
  2. ^ 石井スポーツ所属 平出和也・中島健郎 が 2020 ピオレドール賞を受賞!(2019 年ラカポシ登山) Ici sports
  3. ^ a b "Piolets d'Or - Tirich Mir (7,708m)". www.pioletsdor.net. Retrieved 2024-11-01.
  4. ^ "Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima missing on K2". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2024-07-29.
  5. ^ Two Japanese climbers fall from Pakistan's K2, The Japan Times, Jul 28, 2024
  6. ^ Hope Ends: Attempted Rescue of Hiraide and Nakajima Called Off
  7. ^ Relay results Archived 2009-05-19 at the Wayback Machine
  8. ^ 2009 Individual results Archived 2009-05-19 at the Wayback Machine
  9. ^ 11/02: Asian Ski Mountaineering Championships - Vertical Race (CHI) Archived 2013-07-27 at the Wayback Machine (in French), Skimountaineering.org, February 11, 2009.
  10. ^ The 2nd Asian Ski Mountaineering Championships 2009 - vertical race Archived 2016-03-04 at the Wayback Machine, General Administration of Sport of China.
  11. ^ Winners of The 12th Piolet d’Or Asia Awards UIAA, December 6, 2017
  12. ^ The 2020 Piolet d'Or Rakaposhi (7,788m)