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Conrad Anker

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Conrad Anker
Conrad Anker photo from Yellowstone National Park flier
Born (1962-11-27) November 27, 1962 (age 61)
California, United States
Alma materUniversity of Utah, Northumbria University
Occupation(s)Rock climber, mountaineer, author
SpouseJennifer Lowe-Anker
Conrad Anker's voice
from the BBC programme Desert Island Discs, June 9, 2013[1]

Conrad Anker (born November 27, 1962) is an American rock climber, mountaineer, and author. He was the team leader of The North Face climbing team for 26 years until 2018.[2] In 1999, he located George Mallory's body on Everest as a member of a search team looking for the remains of the British climber who was last seen in 1924.[3] Anker had a heart attack in 2016 during an attempted ascent of Lunag Ri with David Lama. He was flown via helicopter to Kathmandu where he underwent emergency coronary angioplasty with a stent placed in his proximal left anterior descending artery.[4] Afterwards he retired from high altitude mountaineering, but otherwise he continues his work.[5] He lives in Bozeman, Montana.[6]

Ascents and expeditions

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Anker has also climbed notable routes in Yosemite Valley (California), Zion National Park (Utah), Baffin Island (Canada), and the Ellsworth Mountains in Antarctica.

Writings

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  • Anker, Conrad (1988). "Gumbies on Gurney". American Alpine Journal. 30 (62). NYC, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 69–75. ISBN 0-930410-33-5.
  • Anker, Conrad (1990). "Hunter's Northwest Face". American Alpine Journal. 42 (64). American Alpine Club: 36–38. ISBN 0-930410-43-2.
  • Anker, Conrad (1998). "With You in Spirit". American Alpine Journal. 40 (72). American Alpine Club: 140–145. ISBN 0-930410-78-5.
  • Anker, Conrad; David Roberts (2001) [1999]. The Lost Explorer: Finding Mallory on Mt. Everest. New York, NY, USA: Simon and Schuster / Touchstone. ISBN 0-684-87151-3.[21]

Films

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  • Shackleton's Antarctic Adventure (2001)[22]
  • Light of the Himalaya (2006). At the heart of the planet's most formidable mountain range live people who suffer from the highest rates of cataract blindness on the planet. The North Face athletes join eye surgeons from Nepal and America in hopes of making a difference. The film follows the doctors' work on the Himalayan Cataract Project all the way to the summit of a 21,000-foot Himalayan giant.[21]
  • The Endless Knot (2007). Directed by Michael Brown and produced by David D'Angelo, an HDTV documentary film with Rush HD and The North Face. In October 1999, Alex Lowe and Conrad Anker were buried by an avalanche in the Tibetan Himalaya. Anker barely survived the avalanche, but was overcome with Survivor's Guilt. In the months following the tragedy, he worked to comfort Lowe's widow, and eventually they unexpectedly found love.
  • The Wildest Dream (2010), IMAX, directed by Anthony Geffen, Altitude Films, US distribution, National Geographic Entertainment releasing.
  • Meru, a 2015 documentary film about climbing the Shark's fin route of Meru Central[23]
  • National Parks Adventure (2016), a short IMAX film/documentary by MacGillivray Freeman about the National Park Service.
  • Lunag Ri (2016), a documentary film by Joachim Hellinger about the attempted ascent of the Lunag Ri by Conrad Anker and David Lama
  • Black Ice (2020), which premiered at the fifteenth Reel Rock festival, features a crew of aspiring ice climbers who travel from the Memphis Rox gym to the frozen wilds of Montana, where mentors Manoah Ainuu, Conrad Anker and Fred Campbell share their love of winter adventure in the mountains.
  • Torn (2021), a documentary film by Max Lowe about the death of his father, Alex Lowe, and subsequent relationship and marriage between his mother, Jennifer Lowe-Anker, and Anker.

Awards

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See also

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References

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  1. ^ "Conrad Anker". Desert Island Discs. June 9, 2013. BBC Radio 4. Retrieved January 18, 2014.
  2. ^ "Hilaree Nelson Replaces Conrad Anker as TNF Team Captain". July 17, 2018. Archived from the original on July 17, 2018.
  3. ^ NOVA Online|Lost on Everest|The Day Mallory Was Found
  4. ^ "Exclusive: Celebrated Mountaineer Suffers Heart Attack at 20,000 Feet". National Geographic. December 5, 2016. Archived from the original on June 6, 2019.
  5. ^ "Conrad Anker Is Not Done Climbing". Outside. April 14, 2019. Archived from the original on April 14, 2019.
  6. ^ "Watch: Conrad Anker Guides Us Through His Montana Hometown". gearjunkie.com. September 11, 2018. Archived from the original on November 24, 2018.
  7. ^ Anker, Conrad (1988). "Gumbies on Gurney". American Alpine Journal. 30 (62). NYC, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 69–75. ISBN 0-930410-33-5.
  8. ^ Anker, Conrad (1990). "Hunter's Northwest Face". American Alpine Journal. 42 (64). American Alpine Club: 36–38. ISBN 0-930410-43-2.
  9. ^ "First Ascent Info". Bigwall dot Com. Retrieved February 6, 2008.
  10. ^ Anker, Conrad; David Roberts (2000). The Lost Explorer: Finding Mallory on Mount Everest. Simon and Schuster. p. 100. ISBN 0-7432-0192-2.
  11. ^ Bjornstad, Eric (1996). Desert Rock: Rock Climbs in the National Parks. Evergreen, CO, USA: Chockstone press. p. 67. ISBN 0-934641-92-7.
  12. ^ "Cerro y Agujas del Cordon Torre". Climbing in Patagonia. Archived from the original on June 20, 2009. Retrieved May 27, 2009.
  13. ^ Anker, Conrad (1998). "With You in Spirit". American Alpine Journal. 40 (72). American Alpine Club: 140–145. ISBN 0-930410-78-5.
  14. ^ Krakauer, Jon; Wiltsie, Gordon (February 1998). "On the Edge of Antarctica: Queen Maud Land". National Geographic Magazine: 46–69. Retrieved May 28, 2009.[dead link‍]
  15. ^ Huber, Alex; Thomas Huber (1998). The American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. pp. 34–42. ISBN 0-930410-78-5.
  16. ^ Schneider, Steve (1998). The American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. p. 187. ISBN 0-930410-78-5.
  17. ^ Chadwick, Alex (April 15, 2003). "Chang Tang's Endangered Antelope". www.npr.org. Retrieved September 25, 2019.
  18. ^ "The Himalayan Cataract Project team Summits Cholatste". MountEverest.net. ExplorersWeb. May 12, 2005. Archived from the original on October 11, 2008. Retrieved September 1, 2009.
  19. ^ Coley, Mariah. "Shark's Fin Full Report". Retrieved October 8, 2012.
  20. ^ Potts, Maryanne (March 16, 2012). "Beyond The Edge". Archived from the original on March 20, 2012.
  21. ^ a b "10/19/06: The Lost Explorer". KUER. October 18, 2006. Retrieved June 16, 2023.
  22. ^ Leydon, Joe (March 5, 2001). "Shackleton's Antarctic Adventure". Variety. Retrieved June 16, 2023.
  23. ^ "First ascent of the Shark's Fin route, Meru Peak". Guinness World Records. Retrieved June 16, 2023.
  24. ^ "Simon Scott-Harden Award for Environmental Design Excellence Winners". Batch 44.
  25. ^ "David R. Brower Award Winners". The American Alpine Club. Archived from the original on March 29, 2019.
  26. ^ "George Mallory Award". Wasatch Mountain Film Festival. Retrieved December 16, 2020.
  27. ^ "2016 Golden Pitons: Lifetime Achievement". climbing.com. March 30, 2017. Archived from the original on March 29, 2019.
  28. ^ "2017 HONORARY DEGREE RECIPIENTS". The University of Utah. Archived from the original on June 2, 2019.
  29. ^ "Climbing Legend Conrad Anker to Receive Lifetime Achievement Award, Speak at Cody Ice Festival in February". codyyellowstone.org. Archived from the original on June 28, 2019.
  30. ^ "The Cody Ice Fest is thrilled to..." facebook.com. Archived from the original on June 28, 2019.
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