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Abbi Merriss

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Abbi Merriss is an American chef from Indianapolis. She was a James Beard award semifinalist in 2016, 2017, 2018, and 2019 and in February 2020 received her fifth nomination. Her restaurant, Bluebeard, was nominated for a Beard award for Best New Restaurant in America in 2012. She specializes in New American cuisine.

Early life

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Merriss was born in Evansville, Indiana, to Ramona Hamilton and Rick Merriss, one of three sisters and one brothers.[1] Her parents separated when she was two.[1] Her mother moved the family to Louisville, Kentucky, Daytona Beach, Florida, and Quincy, Illinois before resettling in Evansville when Merriss was in third grade. During this period her mother had multiple relationships, and the family spent time in a women's shelter.[1] As a preteen Merriss made a video titled "Cooking with Abbi" in which she demonstrated how to make a cake from a boxed mix.[1] As a teenager she was mentored by a woman whose family she was nannying for.[1] At 15, she worked at a restaurant bussing tables.[1]

Career

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In 2001, at 18, she graduated from high school and moved with a boyfriend to Portsmouth, Virginia where she got a job as counter help at the Top Ten Cafe in the Ghent historic neighborhood of nearby Norfolk, where in addition to taking orders she did food prep and eventually started creating dishes and managing the restaurant.[1] She enjoyed the work and moved to another nearby restaurant, Cora, as a line cook.[1] Her experience there included having a pickle thrown at her by the owner, who regularly became so angry she jumped up and down, causing Merriss to conclude that "Having tantrums is not a way to fix a problem. You fix a problem by communicating quickly and politely. You can have a tantrum later.”[1]

In 2005, at 22, having broken up with the boyfriend, Merriss moved to Indianapolis to be closer to family.[1] She got a job as a line cook at Elements working for Greg Hardesty.[1][2] Hardesty, a five-time James Beard nominee, became a mentor and helped her get a scholarship to a local culinary school.[1] She did internships in New York City, and when she returned to Indianapolis worked for Regina Mehallick at R Bistro, as Hardesty had closed Elements.[1] She worked for Hardesty again as sous chef at a new restaurant, Recess, in Indianapolis's SoBro neighborhood.[1][2] Recess offered a prix-fixe four-course menu that change daily, a new concept for Indianapolis at the time.[1]

Restaurant interior
Interior of Bluebeard

Merriss opened Bluebeard, a gastropub serving New American cuisine, in 2012 with then-husband John Adams and partners Tom and Edward Battista.[3][4][5] The restaurant is located in the Holy Rosary[6] section of the Fletcher Place historic district in a renovated warehouse built in 1924.[7][8] It was named after Bluebeard, the 12th of Kurt Vonnegut's novels.[4][9][10][11] Vonnegut was a native of Indianapolis. The restaurant's menu changes daily.[12] The bar area has a "writerly esthetic," according to the Washington Post;[13] Food Republic likened the dining room to a library.[14] The restaurant's courtyard patio has been called the best in the city.[15][16][17]

Merriss and the Battistas in 2019 planned a second restaurant, Kan-Kan Cinema and Brasserie, in Indianapolis's Windsor Park neighborhood, eventually announcing a 23 March 2020 opening date.[18][19][20] The restaurant delayed its start due to the 2020 coronavirus pandemic.[19]

Merriss is recognized for her interest in and expertise at mentoring young chefs.[1][18][21]

Reception

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The Indianapolis Star called her a "major Indianapolis chef" when naming Kan-Kan as one of 2020's most exciting restaurant openings.[22] Indianapolis Monthly said of her, "Perhaps more than anyone other than Milktooth and Beholder chef Jonathan Brooks, she’s responsible for Indy’s heightened profile among foodies in recent years"[1] and previously, "There may be no one better in town than chef Abbi Merriss at delivering the classics while offering up seasonal surprises that are as daring as they are comforting."[23] Food & Wine said she and Brooks were key to "one of the most exciting American food scenes."[24] Condé Nast Traveler said that she and Holder "have redefined what it means to cook in the Corn Belt."[25]

The New York Times called out dinner at Bluebeard in its travel feature "36 Hours in Indianapolis"[26] and Thrillist recommended Bluebeard "if you have just one meal" in Indianapolis.[27] New York called the restaurant "esteemed."[28] In 2016 Business Insider named it the best restaurant in Indiana.[12] Garden and Gun called her menu at Bluebeard a "love letter to brasserie comfort food".[29]

Honors

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Merriss was a James Beard award semifinalist in 2016,[30] 2017,[31] 2018,[32] and 2019.[3][4] In February 2020 she received her fifth Beard nomination.[33]

Bluebeard was nominated in 2012 for a James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant in America.[4]

Personal life

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In 2012 Merriss married chef John Adams; they have since divorced.[1]

References

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  1. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r Kenley, Casey (8 October 2019). "Profile: Chef Abbi Merriss of Bluebeard". Indianapolis Monthly. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  2. ^ a b "2018 Chefs". Turn Festival. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  3. ^ a b Biro, Liz. "10 women who are absolutely killing it at Indianapolis restaurants". Indianapolis Star. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  4. ^ a b c d "About". Bluebeard Indy. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  5. ^ Kravitz, Melissa (5 March 2018). "America's Female Chefs". USA Today. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  6. ^ "Adventures in Power Dining". BOSS Magazine. 3 February 2020. Retrieved 26 April 2020.
  7. ^ Marcus, Lilit (9 May 2017). "The best things to do in Indianapolis". CNN Travel. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  8. ^ Glusac-Çeviri, Elaine (6 June 2017). "36 saatte Indianapolis". Hurriyet (in Turkish). Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  9. ^ Lazor, Drew (1 June 2017). "Seeking Vonnegut in Indy's Best Bars". PUNCH. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  10. ^ "Kurt Vonnegut Inspires Bartenders With Dark Humor and Satire in Indianapolis" (PDF). The National. April 2017. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  11. ^ Rackl, Lori. "Indianapolis pours on the love with 11 Vonnegut-inspired cocktails". Chicago Tribune. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  12. ^ a b Martin, Emmie. "The best restaurant in every state". Business Insider. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  13. ^ Webster, Jim (7 June 2018). "Where to eat breakfast, lunch and dinner in Indianapolis". Washington Post. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  14. ^ Chang, Katie (25 July 2017). "8 Restaurants You Can't Miss in Indianapolis, Indiana". Food Republic. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  15. ^ Nickell, Patty (15 June 2018). "The Indianapolis 500 is awesome, but there's a lot more to do in this Midwestern Venice". Lexington Herald-Leader.
  16. ^ Ketzenberger, Jolene (10 May 2018). "The 15 best restaurants in Indianapolis". Time Out. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  17. ^ Militzer, Chris (1 July 2019). "Blazing Through the Upper Midwest". Alexandria Living. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  18. ^ a b Ball, Joseph (9 July 2018). "Bluebeard's Abbi Merriss, Our July Foodie". Indianapolis Monthly. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  19. ^ a b Biro, Liz. "These 10 restaurants that were supposed to open this spring. They'll get here, eventually". USA Today. Retrieved 26 April 2020.
  20. ^ Yandura, Kelsey. "New Ideas for Future Midwest Travel". Midwest Living. Retrieved 26 April 2020.
  21. ^ "Abbi Merriss Bluebeard Indianapolis". ChefsFeed. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  22. ^ "These are the most exciting Indianapolis restaurants opening in 2020". MSN.com. Retrieved 26 April 2020.
  23. ^ "Bluebeard — A Best Restaurants 2018 Winner". Indianapolis Monthly. 2 April 2018. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  24. ^ Donnelly, Kate (17 May 2017). "Where to Eat in Indianapolis Now". Food & Wine. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  25. ^ Halpern, Ashlea (14 September 2016). "18 U.S. Cities That Are Completely Underrated". Condé Nast Traveler. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  26. ^ Considine, Austin (14 November 2019). "36 Hours in Indianapolis". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  27. ^ "15 American Cities That Secretly Have Great Food Scenes". Thrillist. 19 October 2018. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  28. ^ Saladino, Emily (4 January 2017). "Taste a Gourmet Revolution in Indianapolis". NYMag.com. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  29. ^ Spalding, Julia (6 January 2022). "A Southerner's Guide to Eating in Indianapolis". Garden & Gun. Retrieved 15 May 2022.
  30. ^ "Prized Plates: Indy's James Beard Semifinalists". Indianapolis Monthly. 18 February 2016. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  31. ^ Gibson, Amber (16 September 2017). "Surprise! Indianapolis has a great food scene — just like another 'apolis' we know". Twin Cities. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  32. ^ "The 2018 James Beard Award Semifinalists | James Beard Foundation". James Beard Foundation Awards. Retrieved 31 December 2019.
  33. ^ McLaughlin, Merritt (28 February 2020). "Indy Representatives Named James Beard Semifinalists". Inside Indiana Business. Retrieved 26 April 2020.
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