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2020 Combined Japan Cup

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2020 Combined Japan Cup
LocationSaijō city, Ehime Prefecture
Dates26 – 27 December 2020
Champions
MenKokoro Fujii
WomenMiho Nonaka
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2021 →

The 2020 Combined Japan Cup was held from 26 to 27 December 2020 in Saijō city, Ehime Prefecture. It was organized by the JMSCA (Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association). The athletes competed in combined format of three disciplines: speed, bouldering, and lead. The winner for men was Kokoro Fujii and for women was Miho Nonaka.[1][2]

Schedule

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Men Women
26 December (Qualifications)
09:00 ～ 09:15 Speed 11:35 ～ 11:55 Speed
09:40 ～ 11:05 Bouldering 12:20 ～ 14:20 Bouldering
12:15 ～ 13:05 Lead 15:25 ～ 16:55 Lead
27 December (Finals)
09:05 ～ 09:25 Speed 13:15 ～ 13:35 Speed
09:55 ～ 11:19 Bouldering 14:05 ～ 15:29 Bouldering
11:45 ～ 12:25 Lead 15:55 ～ 16:35 Lead

Competition format

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It was held to simulate the latest Olympic combined format. Athletes competed in a combined format of three disciplines: speed, bouldering, and lead. The ranks of the three disciplines were multiplied to give combined points; athletes with the lowest points won. Eight competitors with the lowest total combined points proceeded to the final round.

Disciplines Qualifications Finals (8) Notes
Speed Athletes climbed twice in two different lanes on a standardized 15-meter wall. Best times counted. Athletes were seeded based on the speed qualification results. Athletes climbed head-to-head with each other in a bracket format. All competitors ran in the same number of races.
Bouldering Four boulder problems. Time limit for each boulder was five minutes. Three boulder problems. Time limit for each boulder was four minutes. Score was determined by number of tops, number of zones, attempts to tops, and attempts to zones in decreasing order of importance.
Lead A single lead route. A single lead route. Time limit to climb the route was six minutes. Score was determined by the highest point reached and the amount of time spent climbing the route.

Men

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Qualifications

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Rank Name Speed[3] Bouldering[4] Lead[5] CP[6]
A B R 1 2 3 4 T Z aT aZ R HR TFT R
1 Yuta Imaizumi FALL 6.97 2 T5 Z5 ** Z1 T1 Z1 T1 Z1 3T 4Z 7 8 2 40+ 3.06 6 24
2 Kokoro Fujii 8.27 FALL 9 T1 Z1 ** Z1 T1 Z1 T1 Z1 3T 4Z 3 4 1 43+ 4.09 3 27
3 Masahiro Higuchi FALL 8.45 10 T6 Z6 ** Z2 T2 Z1 T1 Z1 3T 4Z 9 10 3 43+ 3.46 2 60
4 Hajime Takeda 6.62 6.74 1 T5 Z5 ** ** T5 Z4 T3 Z3 3T 3Z 13 12 7 22 1.41 10 70
5 Hiroto Shimizu 7.85 FALL 8 ** ** ** ** T3 Z1 ** ** 1T 1Z 3 1 10 TOP 5.47 1 80
6 Ao Yurikusa 7.20 7.20 4 ** ** ** Z1 T4 Z1 ** Z3 1T 3Z 4 5 8 42+ 3.51 4 128
7 Ryo Omasa 9.28 7.01 3 ** ** T6 Z6 T3 Z1 T1 Z1 3T 3Z 10 8 6 33+ 4.10 9 162
8 Keita Dohi 9.54 7.23 6 T8 Z8 ** Z6 T1 Z1 T3 Z3 3T 4Z 12 18 4 40+ 4.09 8 192
9 Ryoei Nukui 7.21 7.33 5 T11 Z6 ** ** ** Z1 ** ** 1T 2Z 11 7 9 41+ 3.56 5 225
10 Yuya Kitae 8.97 7.64 7 T11 Z11 ** Z2 T1 Z1 T5 Z5 3T 4Z 17 19 5 40+ 3.19 7 245

Finals

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Rank Name Speed[7][8][9][10] Bouldering[11] Lead[12] CP[13]
Quarterfinals Semifinals Finals R 1 2 3 Result R HR TFT R
R T R T R T
1st place, gold medalist(s) Kokoro Fujii 3 7.08 6 8.37 10 7.91 5 T1 Z1 Z1 T1 Z1 2T 3Z 2 3 1 42+ 3.38 3 15
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Masahiro Higuchi 1 7.95 5 8.08 9 10.12 8 Z1 Z3 T3 Z3 1T 3Z 3 7 4 TOP 3.48 1 32
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Ao Yurikusa 2 7.03 7 7.13 12 8.05 1 - Z1 - 0T 1Z 0 1 7 41+ 3.51 5 35
4 Yuta Imaizumi 3 7.01 8 7.00 11 7.26 3 Z1 Z1 Z1 0T 3Z 0 3 5 41+ 3.48 4 60
5 Keita Dohi 2 7.62 5 7.39 10 8.19 6 T1 Z1 T3 Z1 Z3 2T 3Z 4 5 2 41+ 3.59 6 72
6 Hajime Takeda 1 7.09 7 fall 11 7.53 4 - T3 Z1 T4 Z4 2T 2Z 7 5 3 29+ 3.01 7 84
7 Hiroto Shimizu 4 8.30 6 11.53 9 8.99 7 Z1 Z2 Z4 0T 3Z 0 7 6 TOP 4.39 2 84
8 Ryo Omasa 4 7.14 8 6.64 12 9.68 2 - Z3 - 0T 1Z 0 3 8 16 1.55 8 128

Women

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Qualifications

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Rank Name Speed[14] Bouldering[15] Lead[16] CP[17]
A B R 1 2 3 4 T Z aT aZ R Hold Time R
1 Miho Nonaka 8.40 8.46 1 T2 Z1 T5 Z1 T1 Z1 T1 Z1 4T 4Z 9 4 1 37+ 3.10 3 3
2 Natsuki Tanii 12.97 13.43 8 T1 Z1 T9 Z6 ** Z1 T1 Z1 3T 4Z 11 9 5 TOP 4.34 1 40
3 Ai Mori 16.73 17.15 15 T1 Z1 T7 Z6 T1 Z1 T1 Z1 4T 4Z 10 9 2 TOP 5.48 2 60
4 Moe Takiguchi 13.24 11.21 3 T1 Z1 T3 Z3 ** Z3 T2 Z2 3T 4Z 6 9 3 27+ 3.13 11 99
5 Nanako Kura 9.76 9.67 2 T1 Z1 T3 Z1 ** ** T3 Z3 3T 3Z 7 5 7 30+ 3.54 8 112
6 Mia Aoyagi 17.96 11.59 5 T1 Z1 ** Z1 ** ** T1 Z1 2T 3Z 2 3 10 32 3.33 5 250
7 Saki Kikuchi 13.49 12.24 6 ** Z1 T5 Z2 ** Z1 T1 Z1 2T 4Z 6 5 8 30+ 3.19 7 336
8 Mao Nakamura 11.95 11.34 4 T1 Z1 T4 Z2 ** ** T1 Z1 3T 3Z 6 4 6 17 2.06 15 360
9 Miu Kurita 14.04 13.12 9 ** Z1 ** Z1 ** ** ** ** 0T 2Z -- 2 15 35+ 4.25 4 540
10 Natsumi Hirano 13.98 13.89 12 T3 Z1 T5 Z2 ** Z4 T1 Z1 3T 4Z 9 8 4 12.5+ 1.05 16 768
11 Ryu Nakagawa 13.25 14.30 11 ** Z1 T6 Z2 ** Z3 T2 Z2 2T 4Z 8 8 9 29 3.03 9 891
12 Miu Kakizaki 18.90 FS 16 ** Z3 ** Z8 ** ** T1 Z1 1T 3Z 1 12 11 32 5.34 6 1056
13 Yuka Higuchi 12.50 14.99 7 ** Z1 ** Z4 ** ** ** ** 0T 2Z -- 5 16 27+ 4.19 12 1344
14 Kokoro Takata 14.03 14.21 13 ** Z3 ** Z3 ** ** T3 Z3 1T 3Z 3 9 12 28 3.30 10 1560
15 Momoka Miyajima 13.59 13.19 10 ** Z1 ** Z3 ** ** ** Z2 0T 3Z -- 6 13 18 2.56 13 1690
16 Risa Ota 14.35 14.77 14 ** Z1 ** Z5 ** ** ** Z1 0T 3Z -- 7 14 17+ 2.29 14 2744

Finals

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Rank Name Speed[18][19][20][21] Bouldering[22] Lead[23] CP[24]
Quarterfinals Semifinals Finals R 1 2 3 Result R HR TFT R
R T R T R T
1st place, gold medalist(s) Miho Nonaka 1 8.72 7 8.52 12 10.47 2 T1 Z1 T2 Z2 Z1 2T 3Z 3 4 1 28+ 2.58 1 2
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Nanako Kura 3 10.41 8 9.89 12 9.33 1 Z2 T5 Z3 - 1T 2Z 5 5 3 18+ 2.19 6 18
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Natsuki Tanii 3 12.76 6 12.19 9 15.47 7 T2 Z2 T3 Z3 Z3 2T 3Z 5 8 2 18+ 1.43 4 56
4 Moe Takiguchi 4 12.71 6 11.40 10 11.18 5 Z1 Z6 - 0T 2Z 0 7 7 27 4.34 2 70
5 Mia Aoyagi 2 11.34 7 11.74 11 11.59 3 - Z2 - 0T 1Z 0 2 8 23+ 1.52 3 72
6 Saki Kikuchi 4 12.67 8 12.12 11 12.50 4 Z2 Z2 Z2 0T 3Z 0 6 6 18+ 1.52 5 120
7 Mao Nakamura 2 13.69 5 13.23 10 11.20 6 Z2 Z2 Z2 0T 3Z 0 6 5 16+ 1.27 7 210
8 Ai Mori 1 11.91 5 16.84 9 16.75 8 Z1 Z2 Z3 0T 3Z 0 6 4 10+ 0.41 8 256

References

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  1. ^ "スポーツクライミング 第3回コンバインドジャパンカップ - 公益社団法人日本山岳・スポーツクライミング協会". www.jma-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-08-26.
  2. ^ "公式大会掲示板". www.jma-sangaku.or.jp. Retrieved 2021-08-28.
  3. ^ "2020 CJC Men's Speed Qualification Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2021-08-26.
  4. ^ "2020 CJC Men's Bouldering Qualification Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2021-08-26.
  5. ^ "2020 CJC Men's Lead Qualification Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2021-08-26.
  6. ^ "2020 CJC Men's Qualification Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2021-08-26.
  7. ^ "2020 CJC Men's Speed Finals Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2021-08-28.
  8. ^ "2020 CJC Men's Speed Finals – Quarterfinals". Archived from the original on 2021-08-28.
  9. ^ "2020 CJC Men's Speed Finals – Semifinals". Archived from the original on 2021-08-28.
  10. ^ "2020 CJC Men's Speed Finals – Finals". Archived from the original on 2021-08-28.
  11. ^ "2020 CJC Men's Bouldering Finals Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2021-08-28.
  12. ^ "2020 CJC Men's Lead Finals Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2021-08-28.
  13. ^ "2020 CJC Men's Combined Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2021-08-26.
  14. ^ "2020 CJC Women's Speed Qualification Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2021-08-26.
  15. ^ "2020 CJC Women's Bouldering Qualification Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2021-08-26.
  16. ^ "2020 CJC Women's Lead Qualification Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2021-08-26.
  17. ^ "2020 CJC Women's Qualification Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2021-08-26.
  18. ^ "2020 CJC Women's Speed Finals Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2021-08-28.
  19. ^ "2020 CJC Women's Speed Finals – Quarterfinals". Archived from the original on 2021-08-28.
  20. ^ "2020 CJC Women's Speed Finals – Semifinals". Archived from the original on 2021-08-28.
  21. ^ "2020 CJC Women's Speed Finals – Finals". Archived from the original on 2021-08-28.
  22. ^ "2020 CJC Women's Bouldering Finals Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2021-08-28.
  23. ^ "2020 CJC Women's Lead Finals Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2021-08-28.
  24. ^ "2020 CJC Women's Combined Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2021-08-26.
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