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2003 UIAA Climbing World Championships

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2003 UIAA Climbing World Championships
Location Chamonix, France
Date9 – 13 July 2003
Competitors241 from 34 nations
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The 2003 UIAA Climbing World Championships, the 7th edition, were held in Chamonix, France from 9 to 13 July 2003. It was organized by the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA). The championships consisted of lead, speed, and bouldering events.[1][2]

Medalists

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Event Gold Silver Bronze
Men's Lead Tomas Mrazek
 Czech Republic 		Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza
 Spain 		David Caude
 France
Men's Bouldering Christian Core
 Italy 		Jerome Meyer
 France 		Tomasz Oleksy
 Poland
Men's Speed Maksym Styenkovyy
 Ukraine 		Tomasz Oleksy
 Poland 		Alexander Peshekhonov
 Russia
Women's Lead Muriel Sarkany
 Belgium 		Emilie Pouget
 France 		Sandrine Levet
 France
Women's Bouldering Sandrine Levet
 France 		Nataliya Perlova
 Ukraine 		Fanny Rogeaux
 France
Women's Speed Olena Ryepko
 Ukraine 		Tatiana Ruyga
 Russia 		Valentina Yurina
 Russia

Lead

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Men

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Tomáš Mrázek clinched gold medal after climbing 2 meters higher than the rest of the field. Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza won silver medal by edging out David Caude who took bronze. Alexandre Chabot placed 5th.[3]

Rank Name Nation 1/4 Final 1/2 Final Final Result[4][3]
R1 R2
1st place, gold medalist(s) Tomáš Mrázek  Czech Republic Top 22.50- 23.55- 9500
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza  Spain Top 20.64- 21.29+ 7600
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) David Caude  France Top 24.24+ 21.29 6175
4 Christian Bindhammer  Germany Top 20.64 15.40- 5225
5 Alexandre Chabot  France Top 25.00- 14.48- 4845
6 Sylvain Millet  France Top 23.76- 12.31- 4465
7 Ramón Julián Puigblanqué  Spain Top 22.87- 10.81 4085
8 Evgeny Ovchinnikov  Russia Top 20.64 10.81 3800

Women

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Muriel Sarkany took the win by climbing 2 meter higher than her closest competition. Six climbers struggled on the same hold: touching, holding, or moving off it. In the end, Emilie Pouget claimed silver medal, ahead of her teammate Sandrine Levet who claimed bronze.[3]

Rank Name Nation 1/4 Final 1/2 Final Final Result[5][3]
1st place, gold medalist(s) Muriel Sarkany  Belgium Top Top 24.60- 8400
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Emilie Pouget  France Top 18.15- 22.27+ 6720
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Sandrine Levet  France Top Top 22.27 5460
4 Jenny Lavarda  Italy Top 18.15 22.27- 4620
5 Alexandra Eyer  Switzerland Top 18.15- 22.27- 4284
6 Caroline Ciavaldini  France Top 16.94 22.27- 3948
7 Angela Eiter  Austria Top 16.94- 22.27- 3612
8 Barbara Bacher  Austria Top 17.42+ 20.12 3360
9 Emily Harrington  United States Top 16.94- 17.72- 3108
10 Olga Shalagina  Ukraine Top 16.94- 7.26- 2856

Bouldering

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Bouldering scores were decided by number of tops, number of attempts to tops, number of zones, and number of attempts to zones in decreasing order of importance.

Men

[edit]

Christian Core sent four boulder problems in the final round and won gold medal after edging out Jérôme Meyer by one less attempt. Tomasz Oleksy placed 3rd.[6]

Rank Name Nation Qualification Final Result[7][6]
Top TA Zone ZA Rank Top TA Zone ZA
1st place, gold medalist(s) Christian Core  Italy 1 1 6 9 11 4 7 5 7 7900
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Jérôme Meyer  France 2 2 6 14 6 4 8 6 7 6320
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Tomasz Oleksy  Poland 3 3 6 7 4 3 3 5 8 5135
4 Mauro Calibani  Italy 4 9 5 10 3 3 4 5 7 4345
5 Kilian Fischhuber  Austria 2 5 4 8 10 3 4 4 5 4029
6 Serik Kazbekov  Ukraine 4 8 6 8 2 3 5 4 6 3713
7 Salavat Rakhmetov  Russia 4 6 6 8 1 3 6 6 11 3397
8 Akito Matsushima  Japan 3 4 5 8 5 3 7 4 8 3160
9 Stephane Julien  France 2 4 4 10 9 2 2 4 8 2923
10 Andrew Earl  Great Britain 2 2 3 4 7 2 3 4 9 2686
11 Alexander Meikl  Austria 1 1 4 9 12 2 8 4 14 2449
12 Georgos Progulakis  Italy 2 4 6 11 8 0 0 2 8 2212

Women

[edit]

Sandrine Levet topped 5 boulder problems in the final round, securing a gold medal. Nataliya Perlova sent 3 problems and placed second, while Fanny Rogeaux sent 2 problems in two attempts claiming third place.[6]

Rank Name Nation Qualification Final Result[8][6]
Top TA Zone ZA Rank Top TA Zone ZA
1st place, gold medalist(s) Sandrine Levet  France 6 6 6 6 1 5 14 6 13 7600
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Nataliya Perlova  Ukraine 5 8 6 8 12 3 6 4 4 6080
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Fanny Rogeaux  France 6 7 6 6 3 2 2 3 3 4940
4 Olga Bibik  Russia 5 6 6 6 10 2 3 5 6 4180
5 Juliette Danion  France 5 7 6 6 11 2 4 5 16 3876
6 Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova  Czech Republic 6 9 6 7 4 1 1 3 3 3572
7 Venera Chereshneva  Russia 6 6 6 6 1 1 1 3 4 3268
8 Olga Shalagina  Ukraine 6 9 6 7 4 1 2 4 7 3040
9 Myriam Motteau  France 6 9 6 8 7 1 2 3 5 2812
10 Yulia Abramchuk  Russia 6 9 6 7 4 1 2 2 4 2584
11 Stella Marchisio  Italy 5 5 6 6 9 1 3 2 7 2356
12 Corinne Theroux  France 6 10 6 9 8 1 6 4 11 2128

Speed

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Men

[edit]

Maksym Styenkovvy took the win. Tomasz Oleksy placed second and Alexander Peshekhonov placed third.

Rank Name Nation Qual. 1/2-Final small Final Final Result[9]
1st place, gold medalist(s) Maksym Styenkovyy  Ukraine 28.81 25.97 21.55 21.31 5500
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Tomasz Oleksy  Poland 32.15 25.96 24.31 25.71 4400
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Alexander Peshekhonov  Russia 32.74 26.96 22.11 3575
4 Oleksandr Salimov  Ukraine 35.20 28.74 27.43 3025
5 Alexei Gadeev  Russia 31.05 29.66 2805
6 Dmytro Konovalov  Ukraine 34.53 26.72 2585
7 Sergei Sinitcyn  Russia 28.29 31.74 2365
8 Iakov Soubbotine  Russia 26.64 27.01 2200
9 Yevgen Kryvosheytsev  Ukraine 29.01 27.19 2035
10 Csaba Komondi  Hungary 32.53 30.03 1870
11 Alexandre Chaoulsky  Russia 28.46 30.87 1705
12 Ivan Shyshkovskyy  Ukraine 40.25 34.18 1540
13 Salah Boulbahaiem  Belgium 48.95 42.32 1430
14 Mathieu Dutray  France 34.80 elim. 1320
14 Nicolas Januel  France 33.84 elim. 1320
14 Andrzej Mecherzynski-Wiktor  Poland 33.45 elim. 1320
17 C. M. Praveen  India 49.98 1008
18 Kyrylo Shevchenko  Ukraine elim. 896

Women

[edit]

Olena Ryepko took the win. Tatiana Ruyga placed second and Yurina Valentina third.

Rank Name Nation Qual. small Final Final Result[10]
1st place, gold medalist(s) Olena Ryepko  Ukraine 43.57 37.15 35.76 3300
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Tatiana Ruyga  Russia 44.38 37.86 37.68 2640
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Valentina Yurina  Russia 43.72 42.25 2145
4 Olga Zakharova  Ukraine 43.09 38.86 1815
5 Mayya Piratinskaya  Russia 45.38 1683
6 Olga Bezhko  Ukraine 53.68 1551
7 Edyta Ropek  Poland 48.96 1419
8 Olena Ostapenko  Ukraine 51.14 1320
9 Svetlana Sutkina  Russia 53.83 1776
10 Agung Ethi Hendrawati  Indonesia 57.45 1632
11 Sabine Knabl  Austria 59.22 1488
12 Nataliya Perlova  Ukraine 60.54 1344
13 M. N. Vathsala  India 86.02 1248
14 Bangalore Subbarao Archana  India elim. 1152
14 Anna Stenkovaya  Russia elim. 1152

References

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  1. ^ "Results". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-08-30.
  2. ^ "digitalROCK presents: UIAA Worldchampionship - Chamonix (FRA) 2003". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  3. ^ a b c d "Sarkany and Mrazek World Champions". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 2017-08-10. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  4. ^ "Result: M E N lead". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  5. ^ "Result: W O M E N lead". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  6. ^ a b c d "Christian Core and Sandrine Levet are Bouldering World Champions!". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 2017-08-11. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  7. ^ "Result: M E N bouldering". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  8. ^ "Result: W O M E N bouldering". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  9. ^ "Result: M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  10. ^ "Result: W O M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
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