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Mount Arapiles is a rock formation that rises 369 metres above the Wimmera plains in western Victoria, Australia. Arapiles is part of the Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park and is a very popular destination for rock climbers. Due to the quantity and quality of climbs, it is one of the premier climbing sites in Australia, along with the nearby Grampians. The aboriginal name for Arapiles is Djurite.

History

Early history

A clan of aborigines known as the Djurid Balug inhabited the nearby area for thousands of years prior to the European colonisation of Australia. They used the mountain's hard sandstone for making various stone tools, and found shelter in its many gullies and small caves. Following Eurpoean settlement in the mid 1840s, the Djurid Balud were displaced from the area, leading to the breaking up of the clan. The loss of the resources that the mountain provided, the ravages of Eurpoean disease, and armed clashes with the settlers were all contributing factors. By the early 1870s, the last of the Djurid Balud had been relocated to mission stations. Some of their descendents still live in the area and there are also a number of archaeological sites nearby. Indeed, a survey of Mount Arapiles in 1992 located no less than 42 Aboriginal archaelogical sites, including "quarries" for hard stone for implements, scarred trees and rock art sites.

The European colonisation of Australia also brought with it many explorers to chart the new lands. The first recorded ascent of Arapiles was on 23 July 1836, by its European discoverer, Major Thomas Mitchell. He named the landmark after the Arapiles hills near Salamanca, Spain, which is where the Battle of Salamanca took place (in which Mitchell had seen action).

An extract from Mitchell's diary on 22 July reads:

"This certainly was a remarkable portion of the earth's suface, and rather resembled that of the moon as seen through a telecope."

There is a plaque commemorating his contributions to Arapiles on the aptly named "Plaque Rock", which is close to the current campgrounds.

Modern History

Note: the modern history of Mount Arapiles is covered in greater detail in many of the works listed in the References section.

Arapiles was first considered for climbing in a recreational manner in September 1963, when Bob and Steve Craddock travelled to Mitre Rock after seeing it in a tourist guide, and saw that their destination was dwarfed by Mount Arapiles. It was a number of weeks and visits before climbing was actually attempted at Arapiles, with the first climbs being recorded in November 1963 on what is now called "The Pinnacle Face". The pioneering group, consisting of the Craddocks, Doug Angus, Peter Jackson, and Greg Lovejoy split into two parties, with each party claiming a route on the same day. Many more climbs were put up in the following days and weeks, including the three-starred classic Tiptoe Ridge (5), and in 1964 the Craddock brothers produced the first Arapiles climbing guidebook (featuring 15 routes).

March 1965 saw the establishment of two significant climbs: The Bard (12) and Watchtower Crack (16). These climbs were done on the same day and are still regarded as three-star climbs, often seeing numerous ascents per day. Activity steadily increased at Arapiles and in August 1966, Mike Stone and Ian Speedie released the second guidebook, Mt Arapiles. It was the first hardcover guide in Australia and featured 108 climbs. The rest of the 60s saw many more new routes put up of increasing difficulty, with many including numerous aid points. The climbing community was not concerned as the focus was on "getting up the climb... and staying alive", whether free climbing or not.

The early 70s saw a lull in activity at Arapiles as attention shifted to the Grampians and Mount Buffalo. Interest in Arapiles resurfaced in late 1973 with many imposing routes being sent with few aids. These routes brought a sense of accomplishment to the climbing community as new grades were continually being created. In the mid 70s, American visitor "Hot" Henry Barber arrived and began freeing these routes with minimal protection. The 21-year-old made a significant impact at Arapiles, and his visit was a pivotal point in Australian climbing, as climbers worked on freeing their new lines instead of being content leaving in aid points.

Word of Barber’s achievements spread and attracted a number of new young climbers to Arapiles. This group was later given the name "The New Wave" and throughout the rest of the 70s and early 80s they were responsible for scores of routes in the grade 20–25 range. The likes of Kim Carrigan, Mike Law and Mark Moorhead helped introduce a number of 26+ climbs. In 1983, Carrigan established Masada (29) after an extensive siege (hence the name of the climb), which was the most difficult climb in the country at the time.

German climber Wolfgang Güllich's ascent of Punks in the Gym in April 1985 was major achievement, giving Arapiles international exposure and setting a new benchmark for difficulty. At the time it was graded 32, and was the hardest climb in the world, though it is now graded at 31 due to a chipped edge. Following Güllich's triumph, a number of routes of similar difficulty were put up, bringing the number of 30+ routes to nine. The most difficult of these is the work of Dave Jones, and combines the crux of Punks in the Gym with that of Pretty in Punk (31). The resultant climb, Punks Addiction goes at grade 32.

Quality new routes are still occasionally put up today, though the popularity of sport climbing has somewhat diminished the development at Arapiles in recent times. Arapiles is still a popular climbing destination, with some visitors staying for months at a time. The warm weather, accessibility, quantity and quality of climbs have helped to maintain the popularity of Arapiles with locals, Australians and international travellers alike.

Geology

Mount Arapiles is primarily composed of quartzite, a metamorphic rock that was originally sandstone. Tectonic compression subjected the rock to intense heating and pressure, fusing the original quartz sand grains and quartz silica cement fused into one mineral. There is a distinct red/orange tinge that is due to trace amounts of iron oxide and various other impurities.

Wildlife

Flora

Arapiles and its immediate vincinity are home to approximately 14% of the State's flora species, with wildflowers being particularly prominent in spring.

Fauna

The Shingleback lizard (also known as the Stumpytail) is commonly seen in the Park during spring, summer and autumn. This slow moving and sleepy reptile feeds on insects, flowers and fruit and is quite harmless to humans.

There are many kangaroos inhabiting the bush around Arapiles. In order to preserve their habitat, many intermediate tracks have been closed to allow regroth of the foliage. Now only the main tracks are used, especially close to the campgrounds.

The Peregrine Falcon, found worldwide, can often be seen around Mount Arapiles. It is one of the swiftest and deadliest birds of prey in the world, but has suffered heavily from the effects of insecticides. As a result, it is considered threatened in Victoria. Like all other plants and animals in the park, the Peregrine Falcon is fully protected. Occasionally, a pair of falcons will nest at Arapiles, and climbers usually notify the park ranger (and each other) should they be close to climbing areas.

Facilities

There are a number of camping grounds at Arapiles; the Centenary Park Campground (known as "The Pines"), the Yellow Gums (known as "The Gums"), and the North Campground. The Pines is open all year round and is by far the most popular site. It has a number of fireplaces for free use, though wood must be sourced from outside the State Park. The Gums is often used by school groups on weekend trips and has camping at peak times only, while the North Campground sees frequent use by tourists.

The park is run by the stage government funded Parks Victoria and is serviced by a toilet block, rain water tank and dish-washing facilities. There is also bore water available, though Parks Victoria advises campers to bring their own as water may not always be available, especially during the harsh, dry summers. The campsite is essentially permanently occupied by climbers, who are subjected to a fee of $2 per night (payable by an honesty system). The fees help in the maintaining of the park.

There are a number of satellite car parks around the mountain that allow for easier access to a number of areas that some might consider to be a considerable walking distance. Such car parks exist at Bushranger Bluff, Declaration Crag, and nearby Mitre Rock. There is also room for parking along the northern access road to the park near "The Pharos" and the "Watchtower Faces" climbing areas. There are two car parks in the summit area, which are used by tourists and climbers alike. The summit car parks are especially useful when accessing the northern climbing areas, provided safer access routes from above.

There is a picnic shelter for day visitors, as well as a public telephone, and an information board. The board briefly documents the history of the area with history, provides information on the activities available in the area, and gives advice on the local flora, fauna. A Telstra repeater tower provides mobile phone coverage, though one must walk a few hundred metres down from the campground to the road for adequate reception.

Climbing

Although there are many hiking routes to the top (including one resembling a via ferrata), most ascentionists choose to free climb one of the thousands of vertical routes on the mountain. Since the advent of modern rock climbing, thousands of routes have been recorded.

Philosophy

Mount Arapiles is regarded as a traditional climbing area – where climbers are (usually) expected to place their own protection, and remove it after climbing. The vast majority of climbs are therefore done using passive removable protection such as nuts, cams and hexes. There are a few isolated sport climbs, but these tend to be in the higher grades and exist only where natural protection is either impractical or not readily available. As a result, some climbs may involve a mixture of clipping bolts and placing gear. In the past where climbers have placed bolts in inappropriate places they have been removed. However, despite these attitudes, Arapiles does cater somewhat for sport climbing, with the sport climbing area "Henry Bolte Wall" being developed in the 80s. Chipping the rock to 'improve' holds is regarded as vandalism and is not tolerated.

Climbing Areas

For a more detailed treatment of this subject, refer to the works listed in the References and External Links sections.

The following is a list of the more notable climbing areas at Arapiles, including famous climbs.

Declaration Crag and Bushranger Bluff

Popular with beginners and school groups, due to the number of easier climbs and secluded location.

The Atridae

Home of the "Flight Deck", a collection of more difficult climbs viewable from The Pines.

The Organ Pipes

Popular with beginners, school groups and regulars; due to the plentiful amount of classics and its closeness to the campgrounds.

Bard Buttress and Tiger Wall

Bard Buttress is a large pillar adjacent to Tiger Wall, which the most dominating feature of Arapiles to the passing observer. It features many multi-pitch classics and the longest climbs at Arapiles.

The Bluffs

These two great blocks rest atop Tiger Wall and offer many classic lines that end in a satisfying peak bagging experience.

Castle Crag

A small free standing rock opposite Tiger Wall; Castle Crag is a heavily concentrated area of climbing in the grade 20–26 range.

The Pharos

Named after the Lighthouse of Alexandria, it is large pillar of rock isolated from the main mountain. It features Punks Wall; home of Punks in the Gym (31), once the most difficult climb in the world; and the Back Wall, which has a small collection of more difficult classics.

The Pinnacle Face

Home of the first recorded climbs at Arapiles, and also to Tiptoe Ridge (5), a classic multi-pitch adventure.

The Watchtower Faces

The left and right faces are water-streaked slabs that straddle the Watchtower itself, which is a rough buttress that has separated from the mountain. Watchtower Crack (16) is an imposing line that follows the crack between the Watchtower and the Right Face.

The Northern Group

There a number of notable cliffs are in this area; including Henry Bolte Wall, a sport climbing area; and Kachoong Cliffs, which features Kachoong (21), a famous overhanging roof.

Mitre Rock

An isolated outcrop to the north of Arapiles, it has many excellent easier routes and is a popular day trip area.

Bouldering

There are a number of bouldering areas sprinkled around Arapiles that cater for all abilities. Two areas that are close to camp are the Krondorf Area and the Golden Streak Area. They are often populated in the late afternoon and early evening after the day's climbing has been done.

References

Louise Shepherd; A rock climbers' Guide to Arapiles/Djurite, Victorian Climbing Club, 1994. ISBN 0-949451-06-1
Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Arapiles Selected Climbs, Open Spaces Publishing, 1999. ISBN 0-9587331-2-0
Chris Baxter; "Tsunamia: the New Wave Hits", Rock Magazine, Summer 2003.
Park Victoria (State Government of Victoria) (2004). "Parks Victoria: Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park page". Retrieved Nov. 3, 2005.

External Links

Rock Climbing Australia page on Mount Arapiles
www.arapiles.net A website designed to inform people about rock climbing at Mount Arapiles