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Margaret De Patta
De Patta, c. 1960
Born
Margaret Strong

1903
Tacoma, Washington, US
Died1964 (aged 60–61)
San Francisco, California, US
Other namesMargaret Strong De Patta
EducationArt Students League of New York, IIT Institute of Design
Known forjewelry design
MovementArchitectonic jewellery
Spouse(s)Samuel De Patta (m.1929–1941, divorce), Eugene Bielawski (m. 1946–1964, death)
Brooch designed by Margaret De Patta, circa 1950

Margaret De Patta (née Strong; 1903–1964) was an American jewelry designer and educator, active in the mid-century jewelry movement.[1]

Early life and education

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She was born in 1903 in Tacoma, Washington,[2] and grew up in San Diego, California, the eldest of three daughters born to Hal and Mary Strong.[3]

De Patta attended the San Diego Academy of Fine Arts from 1921 until 1923.[4] Then from 1923 to 1925 she attended the San Francisco Art Institute (formally known as California School of Fine Arts) and studied sculpture and painting.[1][5][4] From 1926 until 1929, De Patta received a scholarship to attend the Art Students League of New York, where she encountered the work of the European avant-garde.[1][4]

She later returned to San Francisco and apprenticed with Armin Hairenian at the Art Copper Shop,[5][6] as well as taught herself the art of jewelry-making.[1]

Career

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Her innovative jewelry was influenced by the "Bauhaus school, constructivism, and democratic ideals".[7] She married Sam De Patta in 1929.[4] De Patta first began experimenting with jewelry in 1929 when she made her own wedding ring.[8][9] She was known for her innovative use of visual effects in her jewelry, such as light refraction, image reflection, and magnification, which she achieved through the design of her stones.[10] She called her stones "opticuts".[10]

Her jewelry was featured in the 1939 Golden Gate International Exposition (GGIE) in San Francisco. For many years she lived in a house on Laidley Street house in Glen Park, which was extensively remodeled after 1940s.[4][11]

In 1941, she studied under László Moholy-Nagy at the IIT Institute of Design (formally known as the School of Design) in Chicago, Illinois.[1] She met her second husband, industrial designer Eugene "Gene" Bielawski at IIT Institute, they were married in 1946.[1][12] In the 1940s she taught trade school classes in San Francisco with Bielawski however they were blacklisted from their work for "Communist leanings".[13] She struggled alongside Bielawski after they set up a Napa-based studio, to start a reasonably priced mass-produced jewelry line for the public.[13][14][15]

In 1951, De Patta led the founding of the Metal Arts Guild of San Francisco, she also served as the first president.[16] De Patta taught art classes at the California Labor School, and silversmithing, forging and lost-wax casting at the College of Marin.[17][18] One of her students was Irena Brynner.[18]

Death and legacy

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She died in 1964 in a hotel room in San Francisco, from a suicide.[13][19] She had left notes bequeathing all of her major works before she died.[13]

After Bielawski's death in 2002, much of De Patta's work and materials were donated to the Oakland Museum of California.[13][20] Her work is collected in many major museums including the Smithsonian American Art Museum,[21] the Los Angeles County Museum of Art,[22] among others.

In an exhibition curated by Ursula Ilse-Neuman, the first major retrospective of her work, Space-Light-Structure: The Jewelry of Margaret De Patta, opened at the Museum of Arts and Design in 2012 and travelled to the Oakland Museum of California that same year.[13][1]

In 1999, her abstract photography work was included in a group exhibition, The Photogram 1918–1948, at Ubu Gallery, New York City.[23] The Velvet da Vinci gallery in San Francisco held an exhibition of her jewelry in 2012, The De Patta Project: New Jewelry Made With Old Stones Acquired from the Estate of Margaret De Patta (1903–1964).[13]

References

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  1. ^ a b c d e f g "The First Major Retrospective on Margaret de Patta, a Seminal Figure in the Studio Jewelry Movement, Opens at MAD in June". madmuseum.org. Retrieved 2017-03-16.
  2. ^ "The Transcendent Jewelry of Margaret De Patta: Vision in Motion | Art Jewelry Forum". artjewelryforum.org. July 17, 2012. Retrieved 2019-03-28.
  3. ^ "The First Major Retrospective on Margaret de Patta, a Seminal Figure in the Studio Jewelry Movement, Opens at MAD in June". madmuseum.org. Retrieved 2019-03-28.
  4. ^ a b c d e "Margaret De Patta papers". Smithsonian Online Virtual Archive (SOVA), Archives of American Art. Retrieved 2021-03-11.
  5. ^ a b "Jewelry by Margaret De Patta". Los Angeles Modern Auction. Retrieved 2021-03-11.
  6. ^ Doornbusch, Esther (2017-10-05). "Margaret de Patta". Hedendaagse sieraden (in Dutch). Retrieved 2021-03-11.
  7. ^ "Groundbreaking Jeweler: Margaret De Patta". American Craft Council (ACC). Retrieved 2017-03-16.
  8. ^ "Women who paved the way: Margaret De Patta | | the jewelry loupe". thejewelryloupe.com. 18 June 2013. Retrieved 2018-03-22.
  9. ^ Keith, Kelsey. "Imagine if Moholy-Nagy Made Jewelry". Dwell. Retrieved 2018-07-09.
  10. ^ a b GREENBAUM, TONI (1998). "Constructivism and American Studio Jewelry, 1940 to the Present". Studies in the Decorative Arts. 6 (1): 68–94. doi:10.1086/studdecoarts.6.1.40662662. JSTOR 40662662. S2CID 111529564.
  11. ^ "Margaret De Patta's House Is For Sale, and Her Influence Shows". EichlerNetwork. 17 October 2013. Retrieved 2021-03-11.
  12. ^ Ilse-Neuman, Ursula (July 16, 2012). "The Transcendent Jewelry of Margaret De Patta: Vision in Motion". Art Jewelry Forum. Retrieved 2021-03-11.
  13. ^ a b c d e f g Kahn, Eve M. (2012-02-02). "Cultivating a Love of 'Lover's Eyes' (Published 2012)". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2021-03-11.
  14. ^ Lauria, Jo. "Margaret De Patta: Pioneer of Modern Studio Jewelry". ProQuest. 35. ProQuest 1173302507.
  15. ^ "Compulsion for Detail". New York Times. 3 February 2012 – via ProQuest Historical Newspapers.
  16. ^ "Jewelry of Our Times". EichlerNetwork. p. 3. Retrieved 2021-06-15.
  17. ^ "California Labor School 1945 fall term catalog". Calisphere. Retrieved 2021-06-15.
  18. ^ a b Brass, Kaitlyn. Irene Brynner (1917–2003) (PDF). Historical Masters. Archived from the original (PDF) on June 14, 2021.
  19. ^ "Oakland Museum exhibits work by Bay Area jewelry pioneer Margaret De Patta". Oakland North. 2012-02-03. Retrieved 2021-03-11. after she committed suicide in 1964
  20. ^ "Margaret De Patta Jewelry | Oakland Museum of California". museumca.org. Retrieved 2017-03-16.
  21. ^ "Ring by Margaret De Patta / American Art". www.americanart.si.edu. Retrieved 2017-03-16.
  22. ^ "Margaret De Patta | LACMA Collections". collections.lacma.org. Retrieved 2019-03-18.
  23. ^ Loke, Margarett (1999-02-26). "Composing With Light (No Camera Required)". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2021-03-11.
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