Identifier: temperedclothing00hous (find matches)
Title: Tempered clothing--an investment in good appearance
Year: 1921 (1920s)
Authors: The House of Kuppenheimer, Chicago. (from old catalog)
Subjects: Clothing and dress
Publisher: (Chicago) The House of Kuppenheimer
Contributing Library: The Library of Congress
Digitizing Sponsor: Sloan Foundation

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ss it still fits the patternvery closely the fabric is responged. Woolens such as cassimeres or heavyovercoatings are not improved by wetsponging. They are tempered by beingsprayed or boiled with steam. That is,they are run through machines whicheither literally spray the cloth as it passesthrough hot pressing rolls or roll it upunder a tight cotton cover; in the lattercase after steam has been forced throughthe roll for a few minutes it is allowed tostand over night to secure uniform spreadof heat and moisture, cooling and shrink-age. The cloth is then pressed by hotrolls in order to give it proper luster andto set or close the pattern; that is,to give the proper damp-resisting per-manent wave to every fiber and to insurethat the fibers are meshed in such a wayas to preserve both flexibility and tough-ness to the fabric. Worsteds, mohairs and palm beachesreceive this additional steaming andpressing after their cold bath. Usually,however, lustrous fabrics like serges and 32 Plate VIII
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Ninety ton press with cardboard sheets and hotmetal plates for pressing lustrous fabrics worsteds are not roll-pressed. Insteadthey are folded over sheets of polishedcardboard, then placed in a press betweenhot steel plates and given from 80 to 90tons pressure for a whole night. Thislays the pile flat and gives a fine smoothfinish. Whereas ordinary cassimeres andovercoatings are steamed and pressedrolled, soft heavy-pile overcoatings (Mon-tagnac, Kynoch, Gibson and Lumgear,Worumbo, etc.) must be treated by opensteam sponging to keep the pile fluffy.The same machine is used as in the caseof worsteds, but instead of setting thepattern and laying the nap, it achievesexactly the opposite result of plushinessor fleeciness by piling the cloth in loosefolds instead of rolling it tight. Fine gabardines and similar goodsspecially resistant to shrinkage are wetsponged and hung up in the open air todry. When two thirds dry they arepassed through a hot calender or circulargoose. The hotgoose revo

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