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Shallow_water_wave.gif (466 × 70 pixels, file size: 1.29 MB, MIME type: image/gif, looped, 141 frames, 11 s)

Summary

Description
English: Stokes drift in shallow water waves, with a wavelength much longer than the water depth. The ratio of wave height to water depth is H/h=0.60, and the ratio of wavelength to water depth is λ/h=12.0.

Description of the animation: The red circles are the present positions of massless particles, moving with the flow velocity. The light-blue line gives the path of these particles, and the light-blue circles the particle position after each wave period. The white dots are fluid particles, also followed in time. In the case shown here, the mean Eulerian horizontal velocity below the wave trough is zero.

Observe that the wave period, experienced by a fluid particle near the free surface, is different from the wave period at a fixed horizontal position (as indicated by the light-blue circles). This is due to the Doppler shift.
Deutsch: Stokes Drift in Flachwasserwellen mit einer viel größeren Wellenlänge als der Wassertiefe.
Beschreibung der Animation:

Die roten Punkte bezeichnen die augenblicklichen Positionen der masselosen Teilchen, die sich mit der Strömungsgeschwindigkeit bewegen. Die hellblaue Linie ist die Bahnlinie dieser Teilchen und die hellblauen Punkte bezeichnen die Partikelpositionen nach jeder Wellenperiode. Die weißen Punkte sind gleichzeitig bewegte Flüssigkeitsteilchen. Im gezeigten Fall ist die mittlere horizontale Euler-Geschwindigkeit unter dem Wellental Null.

Man beachte, dass sich die Wellenperiode der Flüsigkeitsteilchen nahe der freien Oberfläche von derjenigen bezüglich einer festen Position (bezeichnet durch die hellblauen Punkte) unterscheidet. Dies ist auf die Doppler-Verschiebung zurückzuführen.
Español: Deriva de Stokes, en olas de aguas poco profundas, con una longitud de onda mucho más larga que la profundidad del agua.
Descripción de la animación:
Los círculos rojos son las posiciones actuales de las partículas sin masa, moviéndose con la velocidad del flujo. La línea de color azul claro le da la trayectoria de estas partículas, y los círculos de color azul claro de la posición de la partícula después de cada periodo de la ola. Los puntos blancos son las partículas del fluido, también seguidos en el tiempo. En el caso que se muestra aquí, la velocidad media euleriano horizontal debajo de la cubeta de ondas es cero.
Observe que el período de la onda, experimentada por una partícula de fluido cerca de la superficie libre, es diferente del período de onda en una posición horizontal fija (como se indica por los círculos de luz azul). Esto es debido a la desviación Doppler.
Date
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Author Kraaiennest
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This diagram was created with MATLAB.

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12 January 2008

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Date/TimeThumbnailDimensionsUserComment
current13:32, 20 January 2008Thumbnail for version as of 13:32, 20 January 2008466 × 70 (1.29 MB)Kraaiennest
13:27, 20 January 2008Thumbnail for version as of 13:27, 20 January 2008466 × 70 (1.29 MB)Kraaiennest
01:05, 12 January 2008Thumbnail for version as of 01:05, 12 January 2008497 × 74 (2.26 MB)Kraaiennest{{Information |Description=Shallow water wave |Source=self-made |Date=January 12,2008 |Author= Kraaiennest |Permission= |other_versions= }}

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