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Yuima Nakazato

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Yuima Nakazato
ユイマナカザト
Born (1985-09-29) 29 September 1985 (age 39)
Tokyo, Japan
EducationRoyal Academy of Fine Arts (Antwerp)
OccupationFashion designer
Websitehttps://www.yuimanakazato.com/

Yuima Nakazato (born 29 September 1985 in Tokyo) is a Japanese fashion designer and an eponymous fashion brand. As of 2023, he is the only guest member of Haute Couture Week from Japan.

Early life and education

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Yuima Nakazato was born in Tokyo to a family of a sculptor and a jewelry designer.[citation needed]

He began making clothes as a self-taught designer from his high school days before graduating from the Antwerp Royal Academy with a degree in fashion design in 2008. At the time, he was the youngest Japanese graduate from the program.[1]

While at Antwerp, Nakazato instructors included Linda Loppa, Dries van Noten and Walter Van Beirendonck.[citation needed]

His graduation piece was awarded an Innovation Award from a designer Ann Demeulemeester for incorporated ideas from origami, where the dress changes into a three-dimensional sculptural piece when opened. Shoes that he designed as a student are preserved in ModeMuseum Antwerpen.[2]

Career

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In 2009, Nakazato launched his eponymous label after becoming the only finalist in the history of ITS to be selected for two different competitions in different editions.[3] That year, he presented his first collection at showroom in Antwerp together with other graduates from the Antwerp Academy including Demna Gvasalia.[4]

Nakazato designed a costume for Fergie which she wore while performing in a world tour with the Black Eyed Peas in 2010.[2] In October 2010, he presented his first runway collection at Yoyogi National Gymnasium in Tokyo.[5] He went on to collaborate with Matthew Stone to create The Body Beyondo, a limited edition art book, which presented his 2012 S/S collection in 2011.[6]

In 2016, Nakazato was invited by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode to present his collection at the Haute Couture Week in Paris. This made him the second official guest member from Japan, following 12 years after Hanae Mori's inclusion.[7]

The brand since then continues to present couture collections biannually as part of Haute Couture Week in Paris as of 2023.[8]

In 2018, 21 21 Design Sight, a museum in Tokyo founded by Issey Miyake mounted Nakazato’s first exhibition ‘HARMONIZE’ devoted to reintroduce his couture works to Japanese audience and was visited by Issey Miyake.[9]

Nakazato collaborated with Japan's Ministry of the Environment in 2021 to introduce an educational program on social responsibility and environmental issues in fashion design. The program's jury included Kazuyo Sejima and Ai Tominaga among others.[10][11]

Since 2022, Nakazato began collaborating with choreographers and theatre directors to design costumes for Operas and Ballet productions in both US and Europe.

In 2022 Nakazato designed costume for Belgian choreographer Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui’s artistic directorial debut at Geneva Grand Theatre,[12] immediately followed by his second collaboration with Cherkaoui for Hanjo, an opera produced by Bavarian State Opera in Munich.[13]

In 2023, Nakazato designed costume for Boston Ballet’s new production La Mer, created by a Dutch choreographer Nanine Linning[14]

In 2024, Nakazato designed costume for Geneva Grand Theatre's new production Idomeneo directed by Cherkaoui,[15] making it his first costume design for the full opera production.

Style

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Yuima Nakazato’s work is at the intersection of innovation, tradition and cutting-edge technology. The designer develops sustainable fashion, inspired by the creativity of haute couture and traditional Japanese techniques. His poetic vision of clothing is driven by a desire to render bespoke creations more accessible.

Since his first collection, Nakazato has been creating pieces of clothes that are progressive, sustainable and able to create a unique emotional bond with the people who wear them. To achieve this, he develops techniques that he creates himself or uses from Eastern and Western craftsmanships. His inspiration, mainly drawn by nature recall the contribution of Asian thought through his work. The environmental impact of the fashion industry is one of Yuima Nakazato’s biggest concerns. His couture is a laboratory for a more responsible fashion, incorporating upcycling materials and waste that are not recycled by the industry. Alongside specialists, researchers and industrialists, he pushes back technological boundaries to develop innovative textiles and manufacturing processes, such as 3-D printing, creating textile fibres using fermented bacteria and implementing novel techniques.

Legacy

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In 2018 KCI (Kyoto Costume Institution) acquired one of looks from his first couture collection ‘Unknown’ as the museum’s permanent collection.[16]

In 2020 MoMu praised ‘the Face to Face’ project, a charity project the brand presented as alternative to regular couture collection at Haute Couture Week during the pandemic,[17] and purchased its custom made look as permanent collection.[18]

In 2022 Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe Hamburg acquired one of bio-smocking looks from brand’s EVOKE couture collection as museums permanent collection.[19]

In 2024 Cité de la Dentelle et de la Mode presented brand's first monographic exhibition,[20] also making it the first exhibition for the museum to feature a Japanese fashion brand. Nakazato is the fourth Japanese fashion designer to have a retrospective held at a public art museum in France, following Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Hanae Mori, being the youngest among them.[21]

Couture Collections

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2016: UNKNOWN – autumn-winter 2016-2017 6 July, Palais de Tokyo

2017: IGNIS, AER, AQUA, TERRA – spring-summer 2017 23 January, Maison des métallos

FREEDOM – autumn-winter 2017-2018 5 July, House of Culture of Japan in Paris

2018: HARMONIZE – spring-summer 2018 22 January, Eléphant Paname

2019: LIFE – spring-summer 2019, 26 January, Hôtel National des Arts et Métiers

BIRTH – autumn-winter 2019-2020 30 July, École de Médecine Paris Descartes

2020: COSMOS – spring-summer 2020 23 January, Théâtre National de Chaillot

FACE TO FACE – autumn-winter 2020-2021 Alternative project

2021: ATLAS – spring-summer 2021 Digital presentation

EVOKE – autumn-winter 2021-2022 Osanbashi Hall, Yokohama, Japan and digital presentation

2022: LIMINAL – spring-summer 2022 27 January, Oratoire du Louvre

BLUE – autumn-winter 2022-2023 7 july, Palais de Tokyo

2023: INHERIT – spring-summer 2023 25 January, Palais de Tokyo

MAGMA – autumn-winter 2023-2024 5 July, Palais de Tokyo

2024: UTAKATA – spring-summer 2024, 24 January, Palais de Tokyo

UNVEIL – autumn-winter 2024-2025 26 June, Palais de Tokyo

Exhibitions

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2013: FFI Showroom, Paris

2013: Wonderingmode and Dreams of Reason at Centre of Contemporary Art Znaki Czasu (CoCA) in Torun[22]

2018: HARMONIZE at 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT, Tokyo[23]

2018: Japon Japonismes. Objets inspirés, 1867-2018 at Le musée des Arts décoratifs, Paris[24]

2018: STATE OF FASHION 2018 SEARCHING FOR THE NEW LUXURY, Arnhem[25]

2019: Future and the Arts: AI, Robotics, Cities, Life - How Humanity Will Live Tomorrow at Mori Museum, Tokyo[26]

2019: THE GINZA YUIMA NAKAZATO Exhibition and Store at THE GINZA SPACE, Tokyo[27]

2020: Dress Code:Are You Playing Fashion? At The National Museum of Modern Art, Kyoto, Contemporary Art Museum, Kumamoto and Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery, Tokyo [28]

2020: Making Fashion Sense at HeK - House of Electronic Arts, Basel, Basel

2020: A BIOLOGICAL FUTURE FOR FASHION BY BIOFABRICATION, AS PART OF ‘OUR TIME ON EARTH’ at Barbican Centre, London[29]

2021: Fashion in Japan 1945-2020 at National Art Center Tokyo, Tokyo[30]

2022: Cloud Walkers at Leeum museum, Seoul[31]

2023: FASHION FICTIONS at Vancouver Art Gallery, Vancouver.[32]

2024: YUIMA NAKAZATO BEYOND COUTURE at Cité de la Dentelle et de la Mode, Calais.[33]

Awards

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Publications

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  • 『Matthew Stone: THE BODY BEYOND Yuima Nakazato Presents』（JUNSUKE YAMASAKI, 2011)[6]
  • 『YUIMA NAKAZATO Behind the Design』(Bookend, 2022)[39]
  • 『YUIMA NAKAZATO BEYOND COUTURE』(LIENART, 2024)[40]

References

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  1. ^ "Yuima Nakazato". ROPPONGI MIRAI KAIGI -In the city that connects the people and the Art Design-. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  2. ^ a b "Haute Couture for All | March 2017 | Highlighting Japan". www.gov-online.go.jp. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  3. ^ ITS, Fondazione (2020-01-01). "Yuima Nakazato. Architect of the Future". ITS. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  4. ^ Pernet, Diane (2009-03-06). "A visit to FFI Showroom". A Shaded View on Fashion. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  5. ^ "JFW edges into Asia spotlight". The Japan Times. 2010-10-31. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  6. ^ a b "THE BODY BEYOND by Matthew Stone". twelvebooks. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  7. ^ "YUIMA NAKAZATO / YKK FASTENING PRODUCTS GROUP". YKK FASTENING PRODUCTS GROUP (in Japanese). Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  8. ^ "YUIMA NAKAZATO | FHCM". www.fhcm.paris. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  9. ^ "118 中里唯馬（ファッションデザイナー）後編｜六本木未来会議 -デザインとアートと人をつなぐ街に-". 六本木未来会議 -デザインとアートと人をつなぐ街に- (in Japanese). Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  10. ^ "FASHION FRONTIER PROGRAM". FASHION FRONTIER PROGRAM. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  11. ^ Archived 2023-08-29 at the Wayback Machine
  12. ^ "Floating Worlds - Ballets by Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui and Damien Jalet. Ballet du Grand Théâtre de Genève. From November 19 to 24 2022". Grand Théâtre de Genève. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  13. ^ "Hanjo". Operabase.
  14. ^ "Our Journey". Boston Ballet. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  15. ^ "Idomeneo, re di Creta". Grand Théâtre de Genève. Retrieved 2024-07-09.
  16. ^ "「新収集作品紹介」". Fashion Talks the Journal of the Kyoto Costume Institute. 7. The Kyoto Costume Institute: 46. 2018.
  17. ^ "The Future Is Now: Yuima Nakazato's Circular Fashion System | SHOWstudio". showstudio.com. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  18. ^ "Collection presentation - Fashion from the MoMu Collection / MoMu - Fashion Museum Antwerp". MoMu Antwerp. 2021-05-06. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  19. ^ "Chief curator, Mode und Textil, Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe Hamburg". arthist.net. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  20. ^ "À Calais, le jeune créateur de mode japonais Yuima Nakazato à l'honneur d'une belle exposition". Beaux Arts (in French). 2024-06-21. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  21. ^ wwdstaff04 (2024-06-18). "「ユイマ ナカザト」が初の回顧展をフランスの公立美術館で開催 日本人として森英恵や三宅一生らに続き4人目". WWDJAPAN (in Japanese). Retrieved 2024-07-09.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link)
  22. ^ "Wonderingmode and Dreams of Reason - Announcements - e-flux". www.e-flux.com. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  23. ^ "21_21 DESIGN SIGHT | YUIMA NAKAZATO Exhibition - HARMONIZE - | YUIMA NAKAZATO Exhibition - HARMONIZE -". www.2121designsight.jp. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  24. ^ "Japon Japonismes. Objets inspirés, 1867-2018". Les Arts Décoratifs - Site officiel. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  25. ^ "State of Fashion: searching for the new luxury 4". MaterialDistrict. 2018-06-12. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  26. ^ "Future and the Arts: AI, Robotics, Cities, Life - How Humanity Will Live Tomorrow". www.mori.art.museum. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  27. ^ GmbH, Trotec Laser. "Yuima Nakazato Exhibition & Store | Trotec Laser". Trotec Laser GmbH. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  28. ^ "HIGHLIGHTS". DRESS CODE - Are You Playing Fashion? | The Kyoto Costume Institute (KCI) (in Japanese). Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  29. ^ "Our Time on Earth | Barbican". www.barbican.org.uk. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  30. ^ "Fashion in Japan 1945-2020 | Special Exhibitions | THE NATIONAL ART CENTER, TOKYO". www.nact.jp. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  31. ^ "Cloud Walkers - Announcements - e-flux". www.e-flux.com. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  32. ^ "Fashion Fictions". www.vanartgallery.bc.ca. Retrieved 2023-11-20.
  33. ^ Wightman-Stone, Danielle (2024-01-11). "Yuima Nakazato to be the focus of a new exhibition". FashionUnited. Retrieved 2024-07-08.
  34. ^ "ITS#SEVEN". ITS. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  35. ^ "ITS#EIGHT". ITS. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  36. ^ "Mercedes-Benz Presents designer YUIMA NAKAZATO - 2012-13 AUTUMN/WINTER COLLECTION | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week TOKYO". rakutenfashionweektokyo.com. Retrieved 2024-07-09.
  37. ^ "Japanese fashion's great end to the year". The Japan Times. 2017-12-24. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  38. ^ "「WIRED Audi INNOVATION AWARD 2018」世界を変え、「新たな未来」をもたらす20の革新：受賞者を迎え、授賞式・パーティーを開催". ZDNET Japan (in Japanese). Archived from the original on May 14, 2021. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  39. ^ "中里唯馬『YUIMA NAKAZATO Behind the Design』 – 青山ブックセンター本店". aoyamabc.jp. Retrieved 2023-08-29.
  40. ^ "YUIMA NAKAZATO. BEYOND COUTURE HAMMEN/LARONDE LIENART Catalogue d'exposition". www.librairie-oeilcacodylate.com. Retrieved 2024-07-09.
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