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Dmitrii Sharafutdinov

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Dmitri Sarafutdinov
Climbing at the Bouldering Worldcup August 2012
Personal information
NationalityRussian
Born (1986-09-16) 16 September 1986 (age 38)[1]
Korkino, Russia
Height178 cm (5 ft 10 in)
Weight59 kg (130 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known forWinning 3 World Championships and 1 World Cup
Medal record
Men's competition climbing
Representing  Russia
World Championships
Gold medal – first place 2007 Avilés Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2011 Arco Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2012 Paris Bouldering
World Cup
Second place 2007 Bouldering
Third place 2008 Bouldering
Second place 2011 Bouldering
Winner 2013 Bouldering
Second place 2014 Bouldering
European Championships
Silver medal – second place 2013 Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place 2006 Lead
Updated on 28 July 2017

Dmitri Sarafutdinov (Russian: Дмитрий Шарафутдинов; born 16 September 1986 in Korkino), also known as Dmitrii Sharafutdinov, is a professional Russian rock climber and competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. He has won three World Championships, in 2007,[2] 2011[3] and 2012[4] and one Bouldering World Cup in 2013.[5]

Climbing career

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Dmitri started climbing when he was six years old and trained in a small climbing gym in Korkino.

Competition climbing

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In 2002 he started competing in the youth competition speed climbing and competition lead climbing disciplines. In 2002 he won the bronze medal in speed Youth A at the World Youth Championship in Canteleu, France[6] and in 2004 he won the bronze medal in lead Junior at the World Youth Championship in Edinburgh.[7]

In 2003 he began competing in the senior categories, in lead, speed, and bouldering disciplines, and in 2004 he won the Russian Climbing Championship in bouldering.[8] From 2007 he focused on bouldering where he achieved his greatest success.

On 24 April 2007 Dmitri took his first podium in the Bouldering World Cup placing second in Sofia,[9] and on 23 June he gained his first victory at Fiera di Primiero, Italy.[10] He ended the season in second place behind Kilian Fischhuber.[11] In the same year he won his first gold medal at the World Championships in Avilés, Spain.[2]

In 2011 he achieved five podiums and the final second place in the Bouldering World Cup[12] and his second gold medal at the World Championships in Arco, Italy.[3] In 2012 he won his third World Championships, in Paris.[4]

In 2013 he won his first Bouldering World Cup title, with two wins, one second and two podium finishes out of eight events.[5]

Rock climbing

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In July 2012 he climbed his hardest sport climbing route, the 9a+ (5.15a)-graded route, Ali-Hulk extension, in Rodellar, Spain. The route consists of a boulder route and a sport climbing route that are linked together.[13]

Rankings

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See also: Best IFSC results

Climbing World Cup

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Discipline[14] 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Bouldering 56 - 27 23 2 3 24 4 2 4 1 2 11 12 24
Lead 63 - 44 - 44 - - - - - 49 - - - -
Speed 20 - 11 19 16 27 - - - - - - - - -
Combined 14 - 3 10 4 4 - - - - 4 - - - 77

Climbing World Championships

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Discipline[15] 2005 2007 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016
Bouldering 7 1 - 1 1 5 33
Lead 30 47 - - - - -
Speed - 11 - - - - -

Climbing European Championships

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Discipline[15] 2004 2006 2007 2008 2010 2013 2015
Bouldering 8 - 4 5 9 2 11
Lead 54 3 - 41 - 18 -
Speed - 8 - - - 22 -

Number of medals in the World Cup

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Bouldering

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Season[15] Gold Silver Bronze Total
2007 2 1 3
2008 2 1 3
2009 0
2010 1 1 2
2011 2 2 1 5
2012 1 1 2
2013 2 1 2 5
2014 2 2 4
Total 12 9 3 24

See also

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References

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  1. ^ "Dmitry Sharafutdinov Interview". 17 July 2012. Archived from the original on 6 August 2012. Retrieved 3 May 2013.
  2. ^ a b "IX Climbing World Championship Aviles: full results". planetmountain.com. 24 September 2007. Archived from the original on 8 March 2014. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  3. ^ a b "Dmitry Sharafutdinov and Anna Stöhr crowned Boulder World Champions at Arco". planetmountain.com. 17 July 2011. Archived from the original on 8 August 2011. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  4. ^ a b Franz Schiassi (17 September 2012). "World Climbing Championships 2012, all the results from Paris". planetmountain.com. Archived from the original on 5 May 2015. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  5. ^ a b "Results of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Munich 2013". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 29 August 2013. Retrieved 26 August 2013.
  6. ^ "UIAA Youth World Championship Speed – Canteleu (FRA) 2002". ifsc-climbing.org. 27 September 2002. Archived from the original on 24 December 2014. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  7. ^ "UIAA World Youth Championship – Edinburgh (GBR) 2004". ifsc-climbing.org. 12 September 2004. Archived from the original on 24 December 2014. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  8. ^ "Russian Climbing Championship. Ekaterinburg. Bouldering. Speed". mountain.ru. 16 February 2004. Archived from the original on 24 May 2012. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  9. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) – Sofia (BUL) 2007". ifsc-climbing.org. 21 April 2007. Archived from the original on 26 December 2014. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  10. ^ "Bouldering World Cup 2007, Fiera di Primiero won by Sharafutdinov and Gros". planetmountain.com. Archived from the original on 5 May 2015. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  11. ^ "Bouldering World Cup 2007 won by Fischhuber and Danion". planetmountain.com. 12 November 2007. Archived from the original on 5 May 2015. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  12. ^ "Bouldering World Cup 2011 won by Kilian Fischhuber and Anna Stöhr". planetmountain.com. 23 August 2011. Archived from the original on 28 February 2014. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  13. ^ "Dmitry Sharafutdinov repite 'Alí Hulk extension' 9a+ en Rodellar" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 26 July 2012. Archived from the original on 17 August 2013. Retrieved 10 June 2013.
  14. ^ IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Archived from the original on 9 February 2020. Retrieved 20 August 2019.
  15. ^ a b c IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "Sarafutdinov's profile and rankings". Archived from the original on 7 May 2019. Retrieved 20 August 2019.
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