Christian Core
 Christian Core on Gioia (8C+), Varazze | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Italian | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | 5 October 1974 Savona, Italy | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional rock climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 177 cm (5 ft 10 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 61 kg (134 lb) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Known for | first-ever person to climb an 8C+ (V16) boulder | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| First ascents |
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Medal record
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| Updated on 31 October 2017 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Christian Core (born 5 October 1974) is an Italian professional rock climber who specialises in bouldering and competition bouldering. He is known for being the first-ever person in the world to climb an 8C+ (V16) boulder, Gioia, in 2008. As a competition climber, Core won the Bouldering World Cup twice in 1999 and 2002, and also won the Bouldering World Championship in 2003.
Climbing career
[edit]Competition climbing
[edit]In 1999 Core stopped competing in the Lead Climbing World Cup and started participating in the Bouldering World Cup, organized by UIAA in that year for the first time in history.[1] He immediately won the Cup, and again in 2002.[2] In 2003, he earned the title of World Champion in bouldering.[3]
Bouldering
[edit]He has ascended several very hard boulders in Italy near Bobbio Pellice, Varazze, and Triora. In 2008, he climbed Gioia, the first-ever boulder graded 8C+ (V16) in history, and was for 8 years, the most difficult boulder in the world. In 2011, Adam Ondra repeated the ascent and confirmed the grade,[4] however, in 2015, Core announced that a hold broke on Gioia, which he could only partially repair, and which slightly lowered the grade.[5]
Personal life
[edit]In 2009, he married the climber Stella Marchisio.
Rankings
[edit]Climbing World Cup[6]
| 1995 | 1996 | 1997 | 1998 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 10 | 11 | 9 | 17 |
| 1999 | 2000 | 2001 | 2002 | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bouldering | 1 | 8 | 7 | 1 | 8 | 16 | 4 | 4 | 13 | 16 | 54 | 26 | 54 | 32 |
Climbing World Championships[7]
| 1997 | 1999 | 2001 | 2003 | 2005 | 2007 | 2009 | 2011 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 7 | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| Bouldering | - | - | 3 | 1 | 18 | 10 | 10 | 33 |
Climbing European Championships[7]
| 1998 | 2000 | 2002 | 2004 | 2007 | 2008 | 2010 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 10 | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| Bouldering | - | - | 1 | - | 16 | 10 | 7 |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
[edit]Bouldering[7]
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1999 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
| 2000 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2001 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2002 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2003 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2004 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2005 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2006 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2010 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 3 | 6 | 4 | 13 |
Rock climbing
[edit]Redpointed routes
[edit]Core redpointed 8c (5.14b) and onsighted 8a (5.13b) routes.
Boulder problems
[edit]Core redpointed 8C+ (V16) and flashed 8A (V11) boulder problems.
8C+/V16:
- Gioia – Varazze (ITA) – 2008 – First ascent.[8] Adam Ondra repeated it on 6 December 2011 and confirmed the 8C+ grade.[9] Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival[10]
8C/V15:
- Kimera – Rifugio Barbara (Bobbio Pellice, ITA) – 2006 – First ascent[11]
8B+/V14:
- Toky – Val Ellero (ITA) – 2009 – First ascent[12]
- New Base Line – Magic Wood (CHE) – 2006[13]
- Beautiful mind – Albarracin (ESP) – 2006 – First ascent[14]
- Ajna – Varazze (ITA) – 2004 – First ascent[15]
- Toguro – Varazze (ITA) – 2003 – First ascent[16]
- Dreamtime – Cresciano (CHE) – 2003 – Fifth ascent (first ascent by Fred Nicole)[17]
- Taklimakam plus – Varazze (ITA) – 2002 – First ascent[18]
- Shadowfax – Chironico (CHE) – 2002 – Third ascent (first ascent by Dave Graham)[19]
Film
[edit]See also
[edit]- List of grade milestones in rock climbing
- History of rock climbing
- Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals
References
[edit]- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (1 September 1999). "A Cristian Core e Stèphanie Bodet la Worldcup di Bouldering 1999". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (23 October 2002). "A Core e Perlova la World Cup Bouldering". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (11 July 2003). "Core e Levet campioni del mondo Boulder". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ "Adam Ondra, the pure Gioia interview". PlanetMountain.com. 7 December 2011. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
- ^ "Core gives us the Gioia 8C+ history". 8a.nu. 19 December 2020. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
- ^ IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
- ^ a b c IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "Core's profile and rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (25 February 2008). "La Gioia di Christian Core". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (6 December 2011). "Adam Ondra ripete Gioia 8C+ a Varazze". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (22 February 2014). "Nalle Hukkataival ripete Gioia a Varazze". Retrieved 23 September 2014.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (6 September 2006). "Una Kimera per Christian Core". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (31 October 2009). "Christian Core apre Toky". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (14 December 2006). "New Base Line per Christian Core". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (2 March 2006). "Christian Core, 8b+ in Spagna". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (1 June 2004). "Christian Core risolve Ajna". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (10 May 2003). "'Toguro' 8b+ per Core a Varazze". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (14 February 2003). "Christian Core sale 'Dreamtime'". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (7 November 2002). "Taklimakam si allunga". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (19 September 2002). "Christian Core, 8b+ su Shadowfax". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (16 October 2012). "i Core my climbing family su Deejay TV". Retrieved 29 July 2013.
- ^ I Core: My Climbing Family at IMDb
Bibliografia
[edit]- Andrea Gennari Daneri, Christian Core (2000). Pareti e Montagne edizioni (ed.). Train!.
External links
[edit]- Stefanello, Vinicio (14 March 2003). "Christian Core e Dreamtime". PlanetMountain (in Italian). Archived from the original on 3 August 2017. Retrieved 2 December 2023.